I drive both CVT and AT cars. From experience, during a cold start, letting the engine warm up a while before driving is much better. Why? When it's cold, and you straight put it into D or R, the RPM straight drops, and where does the RPM go? Straight into the GB, causing a kickback.

If you noticed cold start RPM is always higher (Idle ~> 1k), Innova 2013 (4AT) is ~2k RPM, HRV 1.8 ~1.5k, Axia ~1.5k. and when you engage a gear, the RPM will drop almost instantly. It's not like the engine will slow down only your GB will engage.

If not mistaken there's a video out there on Myvi's not sure if CVT or AT about the GB oil seal getting damaged due to the pressure from a cold start when changing into gear.

for my old Saga FLX CVT, I need to wait for the temperature gauge to be at least 2 bars out of 6 bars(normal operating temp is 3 bars)

if I engage D before 2 bars, and let car move without stepping on accelerator, the car will jerk and sometimes engine will stall

"magician"

becos of a fb video made by random ppl yet fail to explain

aircond on or off

Exactly.... driving the car lightly will warm everything up to operating temperature faster.

Some people might spend time doing things like this, wasting petrol, waiting until everything warm up.
But then try to save $$ by using low quality oil and extended change interval

The reason RPM is higher ( COLD START ) because O2 sensor need to be warmed up to get good reading, if you read OBD data, it will say that it's not warm/operating temperature so it will use pre-set RPM/AFR by MANUFACTURE to help warm up O2 sensor, don't believe me? got buy O2 reader and get the reading yourself.

This post has been edited by babisotong: Dec 5 2023, 11:01 AM

Bro, I'm driving Axia E(yes its manual but same engine as the new Axia) , and i've never seen it gone up to 1.5K , the most is around 1000RPM, even when parked overnight in Genting. After fully warmed up it will drop to 750RPM (AC off, gear neutral). AC on is around 850RPM.
As for the HRV 1.8L, it doesn't rev that high (up to 1.5K) in the morning.

About RPM drop instantly when engaging gear, its obvious bro- You are engaging the torque converter and/or wet clutch. It adds load to the engine for sure, and of course the ECU wont self speed up the engine. Hence thats why the RPM drops. Not the other way round.
With one exception: I've driven older Myvi 1.3 with 4AT and I hate them for one thing - They always rev up their engine 1-2 seconds when engaging into Drive or Reverse (or when the AC compressor kicks in), regardless engine warmed up or cold engine . If one doesn't step the foot brake it will lurch forward violently.

If you want to take care of your GB, simple: Dont drive like Michael Schumacher and frequently do "launch control" at red light, unless your GB has been modified and strengthen to take extra abuse. That little kickback at idle wont harm your GB la.

This I fully agree with you. I have OBD reader and yes, the engine will enrich the fuel mixture first until the O2 sensor is fully heated up. By that time the STFT goes as high as -10%

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Dec 5 2023, 11:36 AM

hahaha

exzos catalyzer also.
need specific working temp for platinium to purifying

No need la, as long as you’re not immediately rev it out until 4k+++ rpm within the first few mins, drive like a normal civilized human - THERE IS NO NEED FOR WARMUP time. Furthermore you’re in Malaysia where the ambient temp is high.

The only time where warmup should even be spoken is within peformance car category - ie, 350-400+++ HP cars, where it’s advisable to keep the rev below 3k until at least 80c just to be safe.

Far more than that, nowadays more newer modern cars already got oil/water temp reader built-in, o2 or catalytic converter also got exhaust temperature sensor to read real time temperature data. To reduce emission and better engine protection, it is better to raise the engine temperature as fast as possible (in this case higher rpm) to meet the optimal operation.