I should have gotten all EF lens instead of EF-S lens

I regret now since I can buy Canon EOS RP under RM4K

APC lens are much more compact. It allows me to bring them on hikes/travels (my use case).

If I only had a FF... I don't think I'd do any of that. No regrets here.

Well you can get a aps-c prime for travel. While everything else FF lens?

what are those EF s lens you have for your canon camera? FF lenses are not optimized for apsc sensor, so don't regret.

Tokina 11-16mm f2.8
Tamron 17-50mm

Seems like old lens resolution is very bad after watching some video.

So we actually need to buy new lens if want sharper image

Old lens is not that sharp unless it's very expensive like 85mm f1.2

There are so many things to consider. Lens library, ur budget, ur photography preference etc.

Just cause FF body is cheap doesnt mean the lens library is cheap as well. Consider the focal length and aperture u want and check the lens price before u jump into FF. I laugh at people buying f4 lens on FF body and then complain not enough bokeh lol. Apsc can produce better result than FF if u know what to look for.

Also FYI, FF can be compact, see Sony A7C with the Sony FF compact/almost pancake lens. The only caveat is the price.

Those two lenses you've mentioned are quite popular lenses and they retain their value quite well. If you're really going to get the RP, then just sell them, I don't think you willl lose much. But be warned, the FF lenses are usually more expensive than apsc counterpart. Perhaps you can ask yourself, why you wanted to go to full frame?

From your lens collection and choices, I think that you're not that long into the photography (correct me if I'm wrong). If you want full frame so that you can get better bokeh, then you have to ask yourself, can you afford the F2.8 full frame lenses? As trialgone said, people complain not getting enough bokeh on FF with F4 lenses. Because F4 aperture on FF is about the same as apsc with F2.8. You may end up spending more money getting into full frame but getting similar results with your current apsc gears. Not to mention, Full frame lenses are usually bulkier and heavier.

It is also true that some old lenses resolution are bad, but can you really tell the different if you only view them on the small screen of your phone ? I don't think most people can tell the differences unless they zoomed in to 100% or more to the photos.

If you really want to up your photo game, I would suggest you add some prime lenses (such as 50mm or 35mm) to your collection instead. You will instantly see the different (in term of bokeh). Even if you decided to sell all your gears and move to Full frame, my last advice still hold true.

Ya Sony FF seems to be the best especially ZV-E1

Since my Canon efs lens is kinda useless in FF, might as well change brand.

Do you think 0.71x speed booster adapter will increase F4 to F2.8?

Also I am wondering 0.71x will make Tokina 11mm useful?

Seems like for full frame, Tokina 16mm only useful while any wider will have corner being blocked.

ZV-E1 is video centric. If u want for photo get like A7iii or A7C or something with mechanical shutter.

I'm not really sure what's ur goal with FF. If u doing this professionally or u have lots of money, FF is better deal as it offers more versatility and lens selection. But in no way its budget friendly unless u dive into vintage and knowing second hand markets.

Speed booster in very simplified summary just make smaller sensor e.g. M43 or Apsc acts like FF when paired with dslr FF lens. Note I mentioned dslr lens since it only works with lens designed for camera with long mounting flange onto mirroless camera with shorter flange.

But since u mention efs lens, if not mistaken (I'm not canon guy) isn't that just aspc lens? Then speedbooster is useless.

This post has been edited by TrialGone: Apr 10 2023, 03:44 PM

Just hobbyist who love night photography without noise. Been dreaming about a7iii lol

Ya I still reading the speed booster. I thought it can boost aps-c lens also by change the distance of flange to make aps-c lens cover whole FF sensor. I might confuse on that. Do I move the aps-c lens further from sensor or nearer to sensor to make it over full frame?

This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 10 2023, 04:07 PM

Speedbooster concentrate FF circle to smaller circle to fit into apsc sensor. The opposite of that is teleconverter but I don't think that's what u looking for. I think u confuse on lots of thing from what I read. U better look into utube video on speedbooster first.

If u primary aim for low light, then sure FF is the way to go. But like i mentioned FF gears are not cheap so u better do some price study on lens and camera combo first. Don't buy FF body and then cheap out on lens. Apsc can also do lowlight (paired with fast lens) but of course not as good as FF. Really depends on the quality level u want.

There's optics in speedbooster? I thought it's just increase/decrease the distance to sensor. Will watch more YouTube on speedbooster

Ya my hobby is night and also landscape
You are right it's not cheap.
Cheap one like EOS RP has old sensor which is noisier than current aps-c sensor and dynamic range also bad.

Thanks a lot for your tips and comment

Ok, I just study more on the 0.71x speedbooster,
its the opposite of what I want

I guess I need an adapter that do 1.6x speedlower (not booster)

Speedbooster - concentrate light into small area of the sensor - increase aperture
Speedlower - refract light into bigger area - drop the aperture

Ok someone said its teleconverter. So you're right.

This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 10 2023, 05:45 PM

Really teleconverter just make the image worse so don't think about it. It's only useful if u want more tele reach. It never meant for fitting apsc lens circle onto FF.

If u go FF, just go FF lens. Apsc with apsc lens. Anything in between like speedbooster and such if u have zero clue how to use them, don't buy into them since there are many other issue if u use it.

Just do some research before buying. There are tons of utube video on this.

Yes, speed booster will increase approximately one stop of light.

I don't really understand your question. Why would you want to apply the 0.71x crop factor to the Tokina 11mm (Do you mean the Tokina 11-16mm ?) ? Seems like you don't understand how the speedbooster works. Speedbooster supposed to adapt bigger format lens (eg: FF lens) to smaller format body (apsc). If not, you will get a vignetting (which I think is what you meant when you said corner being blocked). The vignetting also occur even if you apply the same format lens (eg. apsc lens) to to same format (apsc body). If you want to use your tokina 11-16mm f2.8 with speedbooster, you have to use it on micro 4/3 bodies to avoid the vignetting.


For what I've seen on yourtube , if you want to use apsc lens on Full frame, to avoid the vignetting (corner being blocked) the wider is better, not the other way around. But then again, it is rather wasteful to use apsc lens on full frame body. Your full frame body will automatic apply the crop factor, which will reduce your megapixel. In the end, you will end up having a image quality worse than when it was on the apsc camera itself.

From your questions above, it kinda confirm my feeling that you are still new in photography/camera gears. Again, I suggest that Either you get some prime lenses or sell everything and move to full frame if you can afford to do so.

As for speedbooster, I would suggest that you forget about them. Since the camera body you are interested in is Canon RP, there is no speedbooster for it yet since canon are banning all 3rd parties lenses and adapter alike. Speedbooster are available for adapting Canon DSLR lenses to Sony/fuji/panasonic and olympus (Micro 4/3) camera. If you want to move to Sony, then it will be different story and different price point from the RP.

This post has been edited by Loseeker: Apr 11 2023, 03:42 PM

Yes I am still new

Seems like for Tokina/Tamron third party lens, Canon body will assume it's FF lense even though it's APSC lense. So it won't auto crop.

My problem will be to get a reverse of speedbooster. Instead of concentrated all lights into smaller area of sensor, I need it to diffuse the light to bigger area of FF sensor.

I'm not so sure about the part where Canon body assume third party lens as FF lens. But that's beside the point, since you can turn off the Auto crop in most (if not all) of the full frame camera.


Reverse speedbooster is a teleconverter. Teleconverter doesn't work on all lenses. Even if you do find the lens that do works on the teleconverter, then you will lose a stop of light using apsc lenses on full frame because the light are dispersed to cover a larger image circle. To compensate, the full frame body will need to increase 1 stop of iso which defeat the purpose of moving to full frame body. Not to mention the cost you need to pay for that teleconverter.

For someone who wanted to adapt apsc lenses on Full frame body, can I safely assume that you don't have budget for the full frame lenses? If my assumption is right again, my suggestion to you is, forget about the RP. Jump to full frame only if you also has the budget for the full frame lenses. For the time being, you might want to consider getting big aperture prime lenses to improve your night/low light photography.

This post has been edited by Loseeker: Apr 11 2023, 04:41 PM

Ok. But I really dream of full frame since I got my 1000D. Haha
Maybe I just continue to use my Canon 85mm f1.8 since it's the only full frame lense I got.

Since your hobby is night and also landscape, the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is already the best lens you have for your system. May be at this point, the thing you want to improve on is getting a tripod (if you haven't done so), learn how to shoot and process RAW files (again if you haven't done so). As you've noticed that yourself, canon RP is the recycled sensor of the 6d mark II, which has worse dynamic range than the Canon 80d. So, it defeat the purpose of going to FF for the better dynamic range. Canon released RP exactly for the purpose to lure newbie apsc users like yourself to full frame.


@vapanel I've just realized how many conversation (you've exchanged with trialgone) that i've missed only after I've replied. Trialgone has given you many sound advises that I would had said the same.

Many dreamed of full frame, me included. It used to be my budget that stopped me from venturing into the FF territory. But now, I do have enough budget to move up to full frame for all the bodies and lenses I want. But, I have struggled many months within myself (My mind against my heart). In the end, I simply cannot justify to spend all that money for the 1 stop of gain (in term of aperture and dynamic range) from apsc to FF. You didn't mention about the Canon 85 the last time I've asked you regarding your lens collection. 85 on your canon apsc is 136mm (FF equivalent) and it can be quite useful for some telephoto landscape shots (if that's your thing).

I want to make assumption again that, you don't even shoot RAW and process your image with raw conversation software such as Lightroom/capture one. If you do, you will see a huge upgrade interm of your image quality than any full frame camera can give you. If you don't improve your editing skills, you will get the same result, regardless of apsc or full frame and regret that you spent that money. Finally, I want to share with you a quote from a friend of mine which said " Don't let the gear control you". He said that to me when I was struggling to upgrade to full frame.

Believe me. Better change to FF and make your dream come true.

You never know what is gonna tommorow.

FF is not just F-Stop

It's about composition, bokeh, wider wide, at brag right 👍

Edited : yes, I am jpeg shooter. I heard Canon color science is better than Sony. Which FF camera you dream of.


This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 11 2023, 05:39 PM

O boy. Everytime I hear someone only owning 85mm f1.8 or tele lens, I assume u took advice from someone that say that is the focal length to get for portrait with nicest "bokeh", am I right?

I think u miss out on a lot of things just thinking of bokeh all time. Most impactful portrait shot is with wide angle lens, IMO.

But again it's ur money. Since u already own canon lens, then better stick with canon R plus adapter for the lens.

Yeah haha

As usual that lens is being propagated as cheapest and best portrait lens

Which wide angle lens you suggest?
11-22mm canon?

It is still the best portrait lens for that price. I've owned that lens before speedboosted to my XT20 a few years back. But speedbooster and adapters are pain to use especially when you adapt lens of different system to the body.

This canon lens is variable aperture, your exisiting Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is already the best for your system as i've already said.


Haha, even if I never own a FF camera in my entire life, I won't regret. At this point in time, I have no desire to move up to FF. I want to upgrade my editing skills instead, such as Dodge and burn and color grading. They will truely make a difference our photos.

As long as I get the focal length I want in apsc, the composition doesn't matter. Bokeh is overated, especially for me as a studio portrait shooter, I always stopped down to get deeper depth of field. Wider wide is true la, my widest is 12mm (which is 18mm FF equivalent). I wish it can be a bit wider for my milkway shots sometimes, but seldom shoot milkways these days. As for bragging right, this one I have to give it to you.

The two thing that FF attracts me is the dynamic range and the low noise at higher iso capability. By the way, just so you know, the RP has excellent high iso noise despite it's dynamic range is bad.

Canon color science is better for portrait, especially the skin tones. That was the reason why I've switched from Sony to fujifilm. And yes, being a portrait shooter, I was wanting the Canon R6. The fujifilm has nice skintones also, but Canon AF is way superior.

This post has been edited by Loseeker: Apr 12 2023, 12:36 AM

If its due to budget and your capacity at that time, then bravo and no regrets. I think taking the first step in getting any ILC camera even with kit lenses is a good stepping stone. Beginners shouldn't feel pressured to drop RM simply with just prospect that later they 'might' want to continue the path of upgrading.

If you wanna upgrade later, can always do it step by step ie trade in lenses first one by one before eventually getting the dream camera body you want. However, everything is a compromise and the concept of diminishing returns becomes even more apparent for higher quality gears...

Who knows, one day if durian collapses I might splurge also. Hehehe

I think EF lens is not more expensive during that time.

I was thinking more like the equivalent lenses to the 11-16mm and 17-50mm f2.8 lenses that you mentioned. The full frame lenses of those focal lengths and fixed apertures are quite a bit more money I think. Even the f4L zooms are quite a bit more than the EFS ones.

If you mean in general that there are cheap EF lenses then yes. Then I would say your intention to transition to full frame wouldn't be difficult if you don't intend to get the full frame versions of your existing lenses anyway. Nothing wrong there, maybe when one gets more experience, one might find their photography niche and can survive with only a few prime lenses that fit their needs....

There are actually many good old ef lenses like the 28-135mm old ef lens that still go for quite a good price even though its such an old lens and variable aperture. The trick is finding a good condition one cause I think none are serviceable.

Or even the older 35mm f2 lens and 28mm f1.8 have pretty decent reviews... But they still go for quite a bit considering their age. The 28mm still goes for RM1k+ in the 2nd hand market.

What you say is correct also. For fast lens, EF lens will cost a lot.

Yeah, I think will just use efs lens with FF body until I become more pro

As I said before, upgrade to FF body only if you have the money to get FF lenses also. It's really a waste of money to use apsc lens on FF body. You may arque that you use that money to buy FF body and use apsc lens first and then once you can afford you get the FF lenses. You know, canon pump out new body all the times, and price drop. If you get the RP now, by the time you afford the FF lenses, the RP most likely will drop even further, or there are new options for you by then.

Other than that, as I've already told you, using apsc lens on FF body, you will have auto crop or Vignetting. 1) Auto crop resulted in drop in megapixel. The megapixel count will be less than using the lens on the Apsc body. 2) If you disabled the auto crop, you will have vignetting on all your images. You will end up have to crop them anyway, which again reduce the megapixel count, what is the point, bro ? If shooting images with vignetting is your style of photography then I rest my case.


If you still want to go ahead and get the RP and use apsc lenses on it, you go ahead. It is a waste of money and resources. Just my 2 cents.

I think eos r8 is eos RP and eos r replacement

No worries

I already check

Disable cropping

Tokina 16mm no vignetting (11 to 15mm got vignetting)

4:55minit



This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 13 2023, 06:28 PM

Nope. Got myself fuji xt30 and tt artisan 50mm f1.2. Feel good enough as I still learning

1. Do remember if you're talking about Canon EF-S lenses specifically, you will not be able to mount it on a FF EF camera (like a 5D) due to an extra protruding black plastic piece on the mount. It is due to the back lens element going slightly further far back which will touch the mirror of a full frame camera. For example the Canon EF-S 10-18MM STM lens or the Canon EF-S 17-55MM F2.8 lens CANNOT be mounted on a 5D camera.

2. If you use these lenses with an EF-RF adapter, then mounting it albeit crop mode on an EOS RF camera is possible.

3. 3rd party brands like Tamron, Sigma, Tokina do not have this and you can mount them on a FF EF camera but with various serious vignetting issues which can be solved with crop mode.

i have both FF and APSC (5D and M50)

end up using the m50 90% of the time while 5D just sleep in drybox

smaller lens & lighter body makes my life easier and nobody gives a fuk if your pics are shot on FF or APSC

and since u shooting jpeg, u are not even utilizing the full potential of the sensors lol

and dont bother with lens booster, u do get additional F-Stop but corner sharpness and distortion can be quite bad if you use wide angle lens

The problem is 5D mah.

If you got EOS RP or EOS R8, you will straight throw M50 to rubbish bin.

I think EOS M is Canon biggest screw up.

I suspect also.

Any added optic sure degrade one. Just like putting teleconverter

By the way, any recommendations for adapter for skywatcher telescope?

I also agree eos m is pretty stupid move by canon. But currently it's the only mirror less canon apsc camera that has third party lens from the likes of sigma. Also people who bought into eos m is not going spend much anyway so it's not much of sacrifice since canon R lineup doesn't even allow 3rd party cheap lens

However for new buyers..... Don't buy into eos m now.

Btw, since u so budget conscious, I don't think canon in their current state is right for u unless u got existing canon dslr lens.

This post has been edited by TrialGone: Apr 20 2023, 09:54 AM

I got some cheap stuff in Canon

1000d
Tokina 11-16 2.8
Tamron 17-50 2.8
Canon 85 1.8
Canon FD 50mm
Flash di622

Edited:
I still remember when EOS M come out, I also got feeling Canon just come out with EOS M halfheartedly to join mirrorless. So I just ignore.

And you are right. EOS R third party is shameful.

This post has been edited by vapanel: Apr 20 2023, 10:06 AM

If u already have those lens then just go canon. U only need to spend a bit more on the official adapter.

But I still suggest to jump out of canon if possible cause unless u r professional photographer, canon system is kinda stupid for budget user.

Give u example, they released R series Apsc sensor. But they don't have proper prime apsc lens at all. And to make it worse, no 3rd party lens allowed. Wtf canon?

This post has been edited by TrialGone: Apr 20 2023, 12:41 PM

Ya I also contemplating of leaving

Those I have can be easily replicated with better Sony lens and with IBIS

My target is moving to Sony