for beginner, they can start with a good or bad board. the goal is the same: to make that board provide good typing experience for the user. what matters is that the user learn how to optimize the board accordingly.

factory-prelubed switches are fine, but they never provide the feel that i want. you should try gateron red pro. it has lesser stem wobbles compared to gateron red.

in terms of switch tuning, there is no need to do everything in one go. with a hotswap board, you can do it progressively, e.g., one row at a time, or keys in alpha area first, then number row, then modifier keys, etc. there is also no need to worry about things like relative consistency, unless stock parts are so bad that you can feel obvious differences. in terms of switch lubing, as long as you stick to 'less is more', you will be fine.

all these mods and techniques are pretty straight forward. once you do it more you will get it. for instance, i overlube my switches if i use 203g2, 204/205g0. this is because i know after i type on the switches for few weeks, typing alone will help me spread the lube evenly, without side effects, like lube fart. i do control the amount of lube that i use.

tbh stock tecware phantom rgb are bad. i had one unit before. you should keep your phantom for a while, and do side-by-side comparisons with tuned boards when you have the chance.

uh? you use left thumb to press enter key? that's an unusual typing style.

for linear switches, you should try jwick black, nylon top and bottom housing; two variants of spring weight, 58.5g, and 63.5g. there are also other members in jwick series (pc top, nylon bottom), jwick white (45g), red (62g), and yellow (65g).

it's better to lube the spring, and side rails of bottom housing, at least.

in terms of switch lube, krytox gpl is still unmatched for its wide range of viscosity, the ability to mix relatively well with any member of the same series, and availability. as for the shelf life, it depends on viscosity imo (thinner ones evaporate relatively faster)

gpl stands for general-purpose lubricants. usually we use 10x/20x series, i.e., from 100 to 107 for oil; 200 to 207 for grease. note that not all are food grade.

there are other gpl series, e.g., 21x, 22x, etc. that might not be suitable for use on plastic housings.

there are plenty of alternatives of pfpe/ptfe oil/grease like krytox gpl. they just don't have the above advantages. you can still use them as is, if you want. (read the specifications first to make sure that it's safe to use)