Maximum pressure permitted by tyre manufacturers are always embossed/printed on the external sidewall of any tyre.

Yours is likely 350 kpa MAXIMUM, which hasn't been breached with a 250kpa!

220kpa is the minimum tyre pressure recommended by your car manufacturer for its specific design load. This design load is well below that of a 250kpa load rating.

This is not over-inflation per se, as far as the tyre is concerned.

I would say there is tyre over-pressure for the vehicle design load, which technically is harmless and NOT 'dangerous' as often expounded.

Internet has been confusing and misleading in interpreting 'tyre' Over Inflation and/or 'vehicle load' Over Inflation.

This post has been edited by zeng: Mar 11 2023, 09:57 AM

Tyre manufacturers would likely consider this as normal and I won't be bothered by it.

If one is kiasi about it get the tyre removed from rim and inspect inner surface for any abnormalcy.

Does the job include test drives, Before and After alignment?

'Problems' if any, is resolved?

Otherwise not worth it.

This post has been edited by zeng: Aug 30 2023, 10:32 AM

On rear tyres, if the markers (technically called tyre wear indicators) has not been rubbed/touched then they are legal (and hence safe) for continuing use.

If the markers has been rubbed or touched (and exceeding a certain percentage of tread area or a centain number of said markers) , then it is ILLEGAL for continuing use in most (or all) countries around the world and subject to penalty action from enforcement authourites (aka PDRM for passenger cars or JPJ for commercial vehicles). In this case, whether urgent or not is up to you to decide (in legal aspect) which may not necessarily mean 'dangerous in driving' in technical sense if you know what I mean.

The fronts are definitely fit for continuing use.

In a way I find your current practice of differing tyre brands/models between front and rear axles as being practical and helpful to the wallet. Suggesting all four tyres must be of similar brand models (with aftermarket tyres) is a MYTH out of fear-mongering related, to me.

This post has been edited by zeng: Nov 19 2023, 10:51 AM

Without any access to the detailed numbers, the wheel alignment on the rear is causing the excessive wear problem which requires re-adjustment, by a differrent alignment guy.

According to tyre manufacturers, one is supposed to replace/change tyres when or after tyre wear indicator is 'touched' (not with hairline cracks or 'rubber hardened' kind of thing as often advocated here).

In your scenario, I would go on as usual until the rear tyres wear marks are touching the wear indicators, meanwhile take your own sweet time to shop around for good deals on new tyres as well as identifying a really good alignment shop (obviously NOT the kee hin in old klang road).

When comes to a time to purchase new tyres for rear, tell your preferred alignment shop to measure and check your rear wheel alignment for problem and get it rectified!

Note: If the alignment shop tells you the as-is rear wheel alignment is ok and good requiring no adjustment - walk away from him and go find another 'real' shop.

Of course the front wheel alignment needs checking and adjustment as well.

Hence, this calls for a '4 wheel alignment' (not any other typical 2-wheel/Front wheel alignment) and this will be pricey.

Walk away from any shop that charges RM25-RM30 for that kind of (scam) wheel alignment would not help in your context.

Edit: The accelerated rear tyre wear problem will not be resolved by itself and keeps happening time and again until and unless the rear wheel alignment is adjusted 'correctly', by a real pro - base on wear rate-reduction performance.

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 7 2024, 10:02 PM

I've several pairs of XM2 lasting up to 115K km with 2.5mm or so of tyre tread left.

Let us know if this RM255 conti can last you 99.4K km years later.

I consider this scrubbing as harmless as there isn't any puncture going through a load-bearing structural belt or ply.

Have the wheel alignment numbers adjusted properly, alignment check is not good enough.

By shallow you mean tread depth when new is lesser than 6 mm or 1/4"?

My XM2 was measured new at 6 mm by ruler. Actual may be 1/4" meaning 6.35 mm.

With this I get 115K km +- per pair with a residual tread depth of slightly higher than (the mandatory) 1.6 mm, i.e 2-2.x mm.

Just imagine, a GY street tyre in 1980s can get repeatedly 60-65K km life span (in a Saga then) -probably with alignment numbers meant for minimum tyre wear as part of the equation.

Tyre technology over the past 40 years have improved by leaps and bounds, be it rubber material technology or tread patttern design or manufacturing technology etc. IME current generation street tyre life of say, 45K km or below (at a residual tread depth of 1.6mm) is unacceptable and it is unlikely to be attributed to tyre brand/model etc.

Of course others' experience or encounters may differs, more so with prevalent adoption and acceptance of fear mongering of tyre safety/replacement at residual tread depth well higher than 1.6 mm.

However despite modern day computer or 'automation', the practice of wheel alignment and its skill and finishing has gone down the drain or longkang!

This post has been edited by zeng: May 31 2024, 11:05 AM

Your front wheel alignment requires adjustment IF the shop is good enough to do it.

No, it's not about tyre brand or model.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 8 2024, 08:05 PM

It doesn't matter.

Looks like its wheel alignment (Rear ??) is less than desirable IFF within specs....