Not really.. as some say the difference btwn paying for a new CT and a 2nd CT is around 100-200.. to some people this might be not much, but for other groups of people, 100-200 is so much needed to ease off other burdens each month(children, health, etc). If youre a young bachelor owning 2K++ who lives with your parents and got no other commitments in life other than partying and hangging out wit friends, 800-900 a month wont be a bother to you...

Some people also want to at least use a decent quality car, a one worth putting your hard earned money into, rather than cheap new cars that lack safety, comfort, build quality... even if they have to go buy 2nd hand ones. Even some old 2nd hand cars are far much better and need much less maintanence than a few new cars... imho. its not that i say a CT has top notch quality, but when compared, even a 2003 CT has a more comfortable interior that a brand New Hyundai Getz for the same price.
whoaa! a 2005 Vtec for 56500?? nice catch bro.. really hard to find that kinda deal. The dealer/owner desperate ka? damn nice. the actual 2nd hand market price for such car is much higher around 65K rite? you saved nearly 10K. 

yeah, ive double chked with some other car dealers, and their processing fees and such came back the same, more or less.. i think that's the only way car 2nd hand car dealers can survive with the current market today..

the best way to avoid this is to settle loan on your own.. ah well..

usually on S-gear

- cant comment on the wind noise tho coz b4 this i was driving daily a charade espree > kancil > kelisa, then city... when i drove the ct for the 1st time i was like.. omg.. so quiet one... but yea, when u reach abt 120 i hear heavy wind noise, but at 90.. hmm.. maybe its not air.. maybe your tyre bearings are out..?

-i presume ure kelisa is also auto? imho.. its because of the weight of the CT compared to the kelisa, weight to engine ratio maybe smaller for the kelisa to the CT.. thats why motorbikes zoom faster at traffic lites also rite? anyways there is a way where you can out-accelerate your city way past even a manual car at a stop go situation (i.e traffic lites etc).  when your at a full stop, go in s-mode, then turn on the 7-speed and shift down to put in manual mode, i.e gear 1. after trafic lite is green, push the pedal until acc to 5.5kRPMS and disengage 7speed mode to enter S-mode. the high rev of the 1st gear will get you moving real fast. Take note that you must disengage the 7speed before it reaches the redline at 5.8kRPMs, if u dont the 1st gear will go in to 2nd and you loose momentum. If you do it right, you will maintain the 5kRPM, and you feel a boost like nos ().. seriously ive tried it plenty of times.. and its damn great 

-This one i have to agree.. the door seems a little rough.. you need quite some force to shut it..  the proton neo has a nice door closing feeling.. far better than the CT.

lol, your family car all proton and p2 ah.

40k service is the major service where they changed quite a number of parts compared to your other regular interval services.

spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, CVTF etc etc

forgotten liow. I claimed my 40k items before my warranty was over.

My car April 2004. Car mileage now is 47K. 

SInce tis honda city forum, I need some advice from u all. I going to buy a car either new 1 or second hand 1. but my budget can be around 55k. So what i'm thinking is should i buy a 4 yrs old Honda city than a new myvi??

   

stev, remember the RPM does control ur FC 

try drive as gentle as u can, maintain low RPM u'll c the different

If budget really an issue and before going for 2nd hand car, please do remember the cost of legal fees, road tax, insurance, JPJ, some minor touchup.... all these "might not" be loan-able. So taking a 60k value city, u may need 8k - 10k cash for it. + No free maintenance for 2 years + risk of getting a poor condition car + higher interest...