Yup, although I'm using semi synthetic it's so smooth.

I see, maybe check it out when doing VC at 40k km.

I use Yamaha fully synthetic for 1st time oil change. She tick loud until today suddenly it is gone hopefully forever. May she doesn't like thin oil, because my fully synthetic will be expired at 6000km soon, now 5000++km it should be thicker by now.

Maybe also because i did something few days after my last written in this forum.

I preheat from low to 40C where i am sure mine will not tick at this temperature. I pull throttle gradually to 5Krpm, 6krpm, 7krpm and jump to 10krpm few times blip. Let it idle and found out no ticking until 96C and ride.

Few day passing this week, everytime i preheat and try to hear the tick never come out, event i waited until 96C no more ticking or any intermittent ticking, ping my ears. I hope it last forever like this.

Anyone feel free to replicate my preheat throttle blip sequence, hope it work with other bike too.

If it was an injectors ticking not valve, maybe the injector flushed well after what i did.

The ticking not so obvious now, i preheat the engine then only ride... The torque is something else damn nice haha

Good to hear that your ticking is down to acceptable pitch. My pitch tolerance would be without helmet, engine singing with "bass" sound, low tone pitch. If it needs to "tick", lets tick with low tone pitch, ticking in lubricant, tick that being concealed in metal box and not that make my heart bleeds and pinging my ears.

Undeniable Monster Torque, I heard some use R6 throttle tube to punch faster with short twist.

Yea, ask few of the otai and they say that is the engine characteristic and we have to live with it.... I did do some reading and the guys say if we use RUN throttle tube we will loss some early torque a.k.a pick up... Is that true?

Completely agree, smooth deep sound and predictable engine. If it sound bad means something wrong. Not the other way round.

This time revisit to own Yamaha because of MT07 reputation and i need a mid class all rounder. Truly it does meet the purpose with Yamatick package. Honda is expensive nowadays, kawasaki too tall for me, Suzuki i dont have time to search for after sales services. China made bike too fancy design like KTM. Harley feel either i am too relax/old or too Hipster. Sorry for those reasoning huhuhu

Indeed Yamaha it's like Toyota... Quite reliable i would say... And some of their parts are interchangeable :haha:

Meanwhile Kawasaki is famous for the slight rattling timing chain noise. Lol.

No no... Kawasaki famous for valve issue hahahaha....

Also agree by experience, i bought used vulcan en500 1997 long ago in early 2000 and it had valve issues. Only me knew how to crank start the engine. If you failed to crank start few times dont waste time and battery, left it to try another day.

I thought they only have valve issue with Er6n and z800 nonabs.. i think that's their cons...

I read the same, i notice the same with my bike now. I dont use quick throttle tube but i dont like to lug the engine. I prefer my bike to get use 5000rpm over with less vibration. So i push the throttle like quick throttle for shifting. And i ride only up to 5ft gear for the first 1000km.

I found out that now my riding with ECO mode style had lesser torqy than i experienced the first week i bought the bike. But i dont really care as long it still punchy and still can beat any grab/panda rider at trafficlight launcing. Like i said before my bike depend on my mood, i also noticed if i ride calmly follow the ECO mode, my bike kinda having notiacble vibration when i try to speed up above 120kmh (where the ECo mode ended). But if i push shifting 5000rpm above especially 4th gear up, it run smoother less vibration noticeable.

I prefer less vibration, not lugging but not too high revving, i might skip the early torque. This early torque also can be noticed when we enter 1st gear clunking, mine not too clunking nowaday, means less early torque. I prefer this way.

I suffer fuel economic pushing 5000rpm above. Rm20 only get 200km compare lower rpm 3000-4000rpm 240km approximately.

Early er6n, er6f, versys650 had the valve issue.
Its more of a material flaw .
That's why Kawasaki had that recall program for these bikes.
The later models no more of such issue.

Oh my, then I will not consider to change the throttle tube then....

I think its nothing to worry about, because most ecu nowaday is learning ecu. The ECU that followed our mood or riding style. Nothing to do with mechanical loose or piston wear off. It happened to modern cars the same way. I hate driving my wife's taxi because i will feel sluggish few days before it learned my rushing style.

Some may not agree, i might choose quick throttle when my ride or car sluggish and need open throttle or high rpm to catch torque. I did use throttle controller module (adjust wired throttle pedal become stages quick throttle) in my diesel engine 4x4 because turbo lag delay. This is MT monster torque bike, long throttle opening may tame the bike better i belive.

I do agree longer throttle it's better for MT.

Just for sharing, another week passed, after almost exhausted tips and tricks, i stay with shifting 4000 to 5000rpm is best to tone down consistant ticking and avoid intermittent ticking while idling. My odo should reach 6000km by this weekend and time for oil change. I believed manual and dealers would agree to keep it below 5000rpm for the first 1000km but they dont tell what is the best rpm. Since torque feeling almost there for the entire range 1300++rpm to top 10,000 rpm, we might shift as lower as 2000rpm even though the manual said peak torque is 6500rpm but awkwardly too low shifting point. That doest help to get the best tone down yamatick too. I had tried many range of shifting after 1000km breaking period and found out the best for my bike yamatick is shifting 4000 to 5000 rpm until 5th gear and 6th gear only when needed on highway. By doing this i also got a better sound of down shifting. I like the stock exhaust sound bass between popping and not popping.i f i do 3000 to 4000rpm riding, entire shifiting and down shift i only heard ticks and sewing machine sound. By the way i got OBDII connected Bluetooth to my Car Sanner Pro App on my phone while riding at least i can put sound to alarm me on my setup shifting point and temperature. Hope that helps who ever try to get the best Yamatick sound.

I kinda get used to it already, as long they doesn't make any issue... Shift 6000rpm and above and you'll feel the torque... What kinda of engine oil you use? I use belray semi every 6k.

you're nuts...