my restored classic Honda C70 year 1971....but seldom use,usually participate in classic bike show or motor magazine invitation for photo session.

wah... where can assume like this ... must tune on the spot. Want me set for you ? 

For fun only lar.. paint itself will cost me more than the number..  different look ... 

y ur RG mileage so lil???

29k wor....

how much ur expectation?

tubeless wont leak easily...  when installing the tip... there is 2 rubber air seal... that one must cut abit in order to prevent air leakage. I think your mechanic dint not do a proper job there ! 

I thought recommended pressure will remain the same, even after you change to tubeless+sport rims?

either u try find on online..cheap c70, rc best, or something..or go searching around bike shop

Called my driving instructor,

6 hr course . L license 2-3 weeks. everything within 1 month

Rm220 6 hr and L

RM180 for the driving. all together around rm400+

Apparently i can and hopefully too, thanks for the help.

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Added on May 12, 2009, 8:59 am

How released? by removing the bleeder?

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Added on May 12, 2009, 9:06 am

I believe that's the bearing housing on the rims. it shouldn't wear or tear as bearings are fitted into those, unless if there's something that caused damage to it - bad workmanship or a mishap.

Watch the mechanics as they work and avoid things like bad workmanship especially during peak hours... we're all humans, and some of us tends to be sloppy when work gets piled up. My practise is to go early when I need to do this sort of things - saturday morning works for me.

If you are wary about that, you can consider keeping the original center hubs by removing the outer rim.

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Added on May 12, 2009, 9:30 am

Do you mean a full service on the brake pumps and replace brake fluid, or just replacing brake fluid?

Notice:
- some bleeders can rust and jams in the caliper, so servicing them yourself would be tricky. You need a hexagon wrench to get a firm grip on the bleeder so not to damage it.
- To check, slighty depress your brakes and try to loosen the bleeder. Pressing the brake is to make sure don't let air into the bleeder when it is loosen.
- Replacing them is easy as you can DIY, get a friend to help.

Howto:
First open the brake reservoir cover, top it up with the same brake fluid until almost full. You need a friend to watch the fluid level and top up to between min and max level as necessary.

Then, connect a hose to the brake bleeders to a dispose can. Preferably if you can use a see through hose like those from the aquarium store.

Then, loosen the bleeder and watch the old fluid go to waste and top up the reservoir as the brake fluid reduces.
Once the old fluid is gone when it starts to clear, tighten the bleeder and you're done.
Full service:
Full service is needed to check the rubber seals in the masterpumps and the calipers, to check for any rusty parts that needs to be replaced, and anything along the way. Replacing brake fluids is the end of it.

Congrats, you have a good brake bleeder. Some people try too hard, and it would just break off.
To your questions: Brake pump has seals to be replaced. Full servicing should disassemble, clean and inspect.

Brake hoses generally last for 5-6 years. They start to spoil from inside out, so you can't really see the damages inside based on its appearance. For replacements, look for original parts, or if they are too expensive, ask your mechanic to recommend other OEM brands. Make sure the length is right for your bike.
I happen to find this online: http://www.pro-rs.com/How%20to%20Diagnose%...ake%20Hoses.htm

1. Before you proceed, could you use the brakes at all?
- if the brakes totally cannot use at all and you're trying to restore it, I suggest a full service.
- there are seals in masterpump and caliper that needs replacing after 2-3 years of using. These things die of age, too. Removing the brake pistons in the caliper is a difficult process, and you just might damage it the process.

2. I believe you have tried to press the masterpumps many times (try 50-100) and no fluid comes through?

From the sounds of it, looks like your brake already cannot use, and require more than DIY service.
Are you trying to restore an old bike? Hehe, just a guess.

If you really want to DIY, get a hose replacement, and let me know once you've done this.

Significantly noticeable. Do not release until the bleeder is re-tightened.

Motorcycle brakes only move brake fluid at one direction towards the caliper, kind of like a single end closed system. This is why the brake fluid closer to caliper is more prone to heat degradation. If you pump while the caliper connection end or the bleeder is opened, the brake fluid will only reciprocate back and forth without any nett effect towards the caliper, as it has no reverse valves and the system is now open ended.

So, to move brake fluid towards the caliper end if you suspect air has taken place along the hose, open the bleeder, press the brakes, tighten the bleeder, release the pump and wait for it to return to original position. Repeat until you see brake fluid coming out from bleeder.

If you have done a full service yourself, and you need to flow brake fluid perfectly without any trapped air, do this:
Note: Do not pump the brakes unless it is mentioned in the instruction. Make sure everything is clean from grease, oil and water. There should be absolutely no contaminants in the brake fluid.

1. Remove the hose connected to caliper and place open end in a waste can at lower height than reservoir. Assemble caliper on brake frame as this allows the bleeder to be facing the correct bleeding position - Upright.

2. Fill up reservoir and wait for brake fluid to flow naturally until it comes out at the end of the brake hose. Do not pump the brakes as this will cause trapped air bubbles, and you'll have to re-bleed all over. This is why some folks didn't wait, and the result is a spongy brake. This will be quite a long wait. As it happens, notice brake fluid level in reservoir drops slowly, top up as necessary.

3. Watch closely as the brake fluid comes out from the hose end. When this starts to happen, the flow will increase dramatically. Don't forget to watch the reservoir level. Refer to my last post, get a friend to help. Do not continue if there are still bubbles in the flow. Once the flow is clear, continue to next step.

4. Now the hose is filled with brake fluid, fill up the reservoir one last time, and carefully connect the hose to the caliper. This will be quite messy as the brake fluid continues to flow. Be careful not to drop any onto the brake pads.

5. The caliper should still be at a lower height compared to the reservoir, connect a clear hose to the bleeder, loosen the bleeder, fill up the reservoir and continue to flow brake fluid naturally until you see fluid coming out from bleeder opening.. Again, this is a long wait.

6. Once the flow from bleeder is clear from bubbles, tighten the bleeder and clean off excessive brake fluid.

7. Pump the brakes repetitively. Initially, you would hit the bottom without able to lock the wheels. This is to move the brake pistons.

8. When the piston is moved to the right position where it is just touching the brake discs, the brake pump would stop the movement and the brakes would start to work.

9. If all is done correctly, the brakes should be responsive and not spongy.

10. Take the bike out for a test ride to make several hard braking and easy braking.  Hard brake by almost locking the wheels. All is well if you are satisfied.

The owner need to prepare 2 copies of transfer ownership form, photocopy IC using JPJ template (get the template from JPJ first), and then 'sah' the from in at local JPJ office. He can then give these 3 forms to the buyer, collect money from buyer and the buyer can settle the transfer separately...

Not sure how to get around that if the owner cannot make it himself.