Greetings car taiko2

So i came across a few civic FD almost fully converted to FD2R, should i said salin ckd halfcut FD2R plus the interior also. Really interested about these converted FD since they are way cheaper than the original FD2R even for the fully converted FD.

Since i am a pit crew, a lot of FD2 in MCS are not real FD2R, the chassis are from FD1/2. They only stripped the interior, installed rollcage, full bucketseat, modified K20 and gearbox with ratio plus full lock LSD etc. Then i look at the timing, a lot of them clocked an amazing time like 2:3x.

Question is, how does it really feels like driving the original FD2R vs the converted FD2R? I mean like really pushing the car instead of chill driving. And is it really worth it if i just buy a converted FD2R instead of the original FD2R?

This post has been edited by Napalm_man: Jan 20 2022, 11:59 PM

lap time shows it still clock very good time, so you got your answer there I guess?
I'm also driving a fully converted Civic type R. But civic ES with all DC5 type R halfcut goodies.

If you don’t mind a converted car, why not? Mine is only an EK3 converted to EK9. All time and effort spent building from stock was priceless. Learnt so much from a lot of ppl during the process.

unless if you are a purist..

but then there is lot of different in chasis only..especially for street use

Nice mod bro, yea their timing are superb but think again, the chassis probably spot welded(high possible and expensive to do so i heard) plus rollcage, makes the car super rigid and that is one of the reason why they get great timing. Compare these track cars, well we both know it's not fair. Anyway, thanks for your opinion, really appreciate it.

Lol since my honda jazz gk also converted to fit gk, also salin ckd halfcut from fit gk rs. Honestly i don't really mind since no one will "Hey pop the hood, i want to see if your civic is original type r", btw i also have huge crush on ek9 type r, probably because we're 80's 90's baby lol.

You mean by exterior?

chassis rigidity different bro..fd1/2 converted otr no roll cage. not like those mcs car ady..

Oh man...that is the thing, you were right about those MCS car with rollcage. Can you tell how huge is the difference for the chassis rigidity?

Passenger opinion ok?
I didn't dare drive my friends and mechanic/tuner customers FD2Rs.. scare anything happen i have to pay

An FD2R feels like a regular FD when driven at normal everyday speed. Even after tuning (properly done)
Pushing it was . Didn't have any friends with converted FD, so can't really comment.
But if done properly, should be just as good.

My car was converted by previous owner. He told me after converted the civic es body is flexing quite a bit during aggresive driving. So he adds on full set ultra racing bar. Now this car feels much more rigid compared to normal everyday cars to me. Car also comes with toyo R1R tires which are super gripper and stiff sidewalls, so i assumed he really does take cornering like a madman lol.

as long as the conversion took everything from the front and the rear of the donor car and it's done properly, you will get at least 90% of the type r feel.... good enough for fast road use and hillclimbs, but if you're chasing seconds, nothing beats the original

For the done properly parts, i didn't ask much but i do heard if usual FD done stitch welding or chassis reinforce so they said, the feeling aren't much different from the original type r. And i also heard these chassis reinforcing job are really really expensive.

I did thought about adding some bars like ultra racing or the famous and expensive cusco, but wouldn't these bars would add more weight?

Oh well, unfortunately i am the type that chasing seconds in track. Not really going for kanjo/touge anymore, sudah tua
But think again, the price for FD2R increased so much already, dug a big hole in my financial if i really getting the original FD2R...

As a passenger, I find FD2R was much stiffer while normal FD1/2 were much more compliant and comfortable but I also never rode in converted ones yet. Of course wheels and suspension play a big part in the difference aside from the chassis stiffness.

I guess if the converted ones have enough additional chassis bracing and similar stiff suspension setup then they might also perform maybe up to 80% of the real FD2R. Whether that's goid enough for the money then up to the buyer.

There was never really a launched Civic ES with a Type R label on it lor.

Your Civic should be called Civic ES modded with DC5R engine.

If it was an FD, then can say it was converted to FD2R because they share the similar traits. However, converted Type R will never have the chassis rigidity of an original Type R.

Same goes for EK and FC.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Jan 21 2022, 11:39 AM

Since i was a pit crew, i did drove the non type r FD track car and the feeling is well, like track car, clunky and noisy and stiff and uncomfortable. As for the original FD2R, i never drove a heavily modified, i only drive a lightly modified with BCBR adjustable, usual 17" rim with AD08 and a j's racing muffler. The feeling is seriously WOW, really turned me on lmao. I also driven the normal FD1/2, well it feels like a usual family car.

But I just never drover a converted FD2R yet, which is why i open a discussion with all of you guys here.

I guess you just test drive some and see if you are ok with it. As I said, my guess is on street driving, it would probably gets close enough up to 80% of the real thing provided the conversion done well.

for me on track and road surely huge different..sumore not like chasis bracing or ayam roll cage..rollcage approved by fia is another lvl already..

Nice. 6MT huh? I mod a lot, but leaving the engine out of it, too old to convert another engine lol, and the cost is so expensive to justify haha.

Then save your time and effort and get a real type R

chassis plays a huge role in lap times and especially for NA cars where you'll want to utilize those previous ponies effectively and efficiently

Wouldnt a stock FD2R vome with additional bracing/ chasis strengthening from factory 🤔

If add on full roll cage then maybe no difference, but if street version, i suppose will have some chassis stiffness difference, right ?

Lol i really want a test drive for the converted but i don't think i can feel the difference while cruising, and i also don't think it's a nice idea for me to praanggg the car while test drive. It's a gamble, i agreed with you that street driving won't be much different.

I never driven those FD trackcar with expensive rollcage in, but the usual FIA approved already clunky and stiff as hell.

Yeap 6MT, lol since not much manual jazz left on the street especially the last jazz. For the L15B engine, i don't have any plan for that but i do have plan for ogura clutch, ratio and 1.5 LSD. Honestly, the convert cost for that little jazz can reached almost 30k+ for fully convert, only the chassis is made in Melaka.

As per our friend here, the FD2R chassis are stiffer than the usual FD, so i guess the chassis have some spot or stitch weld from factory.
For full rollcage, depends on what kind of rollcage. If those cusco rollcage, i never drive them so i can't comment anything. But for those track use rollcage, the difference is obvious even for a non type r FD chassis.

If you're serious about time attack then I agree with bro Quazacolt to just buy the real deal. Because at the end of the day, even if you manage good lap times in a Tipu R, there will always that lingering thoughts at the back of your mind asking whether you could've gone even quicker with the real thing. Hence you'd probably regret buying a Tipu R. Plus the pride and satisfaction of owning the real thing is irreplacable IMHO, that's why I also never interested in converted Evos no matter what.

It is diff. Al your answers is here.

In the end will always kena potong by Myvi anyway right

if you're gonna be chasing seconds, then get a proper cage..... that will settle the chassis flex if the cage is porperly built and anchored

another alternative is to stitch weld the chassis, but u gotta check if it's legal to do that..... u don't want to have problems later when selling off the car...... but no matter what you do, a proper cage is the best when it comes to chasing seconds

God damn you're right, i guess we those who serious about time attack are just different from others.

Gotta respect the king right?

Rollcage 100% confirmed is illegal in Malaysia, but i always wonder how much is the cost for stitch weld? Heard some said if done super properly, the chassis would be almost like 95% type r.

That might also be illegal..... Chassis modifications are illegal according to jpj

But how do the JPJ know if we done stitch weld to our chassis? Since later the car will be covered by carpet UNLESS the owner want their car stripped naked like trackcar and daily drive it, which is super risky if you ask me...

u will have a problem at puspacom when u try to sell the car

Or any insurance claim

Now this is some serious shit going on there, i guess if i ever bought and stitch weld the car, well then till death do us apart...

Man, come to think of it, better get the original type r instead especially a guy like me who love going to track.

how to become pit crews

Starting with helping a friend, his network starting to grow and he decided to count me in as his communication/pit manager. It's fun, and i love every second of it.

Yeah that's the way to go... for me i'm too old for extensive mod and conversion already.
Nowadays just stick to stock.. especially for mechanical stuff.. and only remap for extra bang.

me too..... gave up modding.... still have my old satria.... that one modded to the max..... now driving a stock saga vvt

I have owned a pre-FL FD2R & also a FL FD2R brand new from Honda Malaysia. Both taken to SIC, one on stock sussy, and the other on Ohlins.

I have also sat on fully converted FD with FD2R interiors and the legendary K20A at SIC.

There is no denying the rigidity difference between them. They are not the same, and I would say if the same driver were to drive a stock FD2R and a FD with converted K20A engine (no additional engine performance mods), his timing at SIC would be faster on the FD2R, even with the same tires and brakes. The steering correction at many of the sharper turns is reduced because of the rigidity.

There you have it, my experience with both.

Oh thank you so much bro for your sharing, anyway i am planning to get 1 FD2R, still under consideration because a friend interested to buy my car.
If you don't mind, can you share about servicing, parts, if daily drive, SIC track day preparation etc for FD2R? I did ask a few ex FD2R owner and their answer more or less the same, but i still want to hear your sharing since you once owned a pre-fl and fl FD2R.

Servicing is just about the same as normal FD. It's damn bomb proof unless one doesn't look after it. The new owner who bought my Pre-FL dropped to wrong gear and kaboom

SIC Track Day
Fluid change to better brand/quality, engine and gear oil before the track day.
Camber adjustments before and after. You don't want aggressive camber for street drive.
You can opt to have aggressive tires/wheels for track days specific like A050, or get good tires for street like AD08R or Hankooks. Even the stock Bridgestone RE070 was excellent for track days. Just bear in mind, just faster tire change, that's all.
Fluids temp gauge to know when you need to get back to pit. But typically, no issue.

I had mine upgraded to JS Racing 6 and 4 pots and made helluva difference. Stock brakes are not good enough for many hot laps especially if one is chasing lap times. At the very least, get better pads and brake fluids to allow you to brake later. My subsequent 2015 WRX STI with stock Brembos basically melted after lap 3 and had no brakes at turn 9 and ate grass but lucky didn't hit barriers. I changed to DBA rotors and pads and woot, no more brake fade during next track day.

This post has been edited by McFD2R: Jan 27 2022, 12:10 PM

So for the brake side, i need better pads, fluids and disc? Lol I didn’t have any plan for brake upgrades yet, i saw few FD2R with alcon, ap racing, spoon, j’s racing brake kit, man these brake kits aren’t cheap though…
What do you think for daily? I get a few advices about i will spend more on fuel especially if i often VTEC KICK IN YO, and also need to check engine oil too.
And for daily use tire, are those re004, advan fleva sufficient enough?
Lol i not really active in karak or genting or ulu yam like few years back, guess it’s because me getting old

All I can say is, I regretted selling my FL FD2R even to this day. My subsequent WRX STI and my current E90 M3, although has more power, has no soul. The FD2R is a very driver focused car. Easy to drive and untemperamental when driven hard. It's handling and manual shifting makes up for its lack of power against current cars these days. Even the FC Civics with 1.5T can churn our higher power with some minor mods and a tune.

Bear in mind, I was pitting it against the Megane 250 when I was contemplating the FL FD2R. Tested the Megane twice, great, fast, but I still went back to FD2R

The closest I have found to it is my wife's current ride, F56 Mini Cooper S. Unfortunately, I did not get the JCW but I should have since I drive it more on weekends these days

Daily use, even Honda engine oils are good enough. Brake upgrades are for more aggressive drivers going to track. Otherwise, better pads like EBC would suffice. And yes, BBKs ain't cheap.

Don't worry about fuel lah. You ain't gonna YOLO all the time. It's pretty fuel efficient under normal driving conditions.

I wouldn't get Fleva for it, used it before on Honda Jazz but not for FD2R. Bear in mind, these cars excels in handling. You need tires that has stiffer sidewalls. No experience with RE004.

I am a firm believer that the type of tires, oils, brakes we use must match our driving habits/style and the car. The more aggressive we drive, better quality is needed. One does not put AD08R on a Kancil nor MYVI for street driving. It's overkill. One does not use Motul 300V or Millers on Toyota Vios and the likes.

I have seen owners of FD2Rs running on RON 95, and had it detune to run the fuel. That's for me. Why buy an FD2R then? It came from Japan rated to run on RON 100, even higher than the 2015 WRX STI rated to run on RON98.

Re004 more to dry but they say a bit less grip in wet.
michelin ps4 both dry n wet grip good but expensive.
continental mc6 cheap and good both dry and wet, but lose out to ps4

Coming from you, then i should treat the FD2R the same way i treated my current car. I didn't use any high grade oil for daily, only for track day i go change better oil, brake pads, alignment/camber setup etc.

Hey...That wasn't so expensive as the other said then, i guess the other ex FD2R owner are just bangsawan, keep recommend me to use high grade oil, brake pads, spark plug and other wear and tear parts.

I've been thinking about Kumho V720

Fleva got many unfavourable reviews for not being so good in either dry especially wet. RE004 should be good, I heard mostly nice feedback from friends who had tried it. I had tried the older re003 which is good in the dry but not so good in the wet, but re004 I heard improved on both aspects.Sidewall is quite stiff. If more well rounder street performamce tires then PS4 or Goodyear F1 are the best but they'll be ruined on track especially PS4 cuz chipping a lot.

If you want more extreme category tires that still good for street especially during heavy rain, I'd recommend Toyo R1R. I am using it now on my Evo replacing the previous AD08. Dry about similar, maybe AD08 slightly more grip but wet AD08 is noticeably more skittish and easier to float. AD08 is also more expensive so I feel R1R is better value for money. Other same category tires I think will be similar to AD08 where focusing more in dry and not good in real wet condition.

avoid fleva serie at any costs. very dangerous

May I know what engine oil and gear oil you recommend for normal none track drive?

Torco SR1 is more than sufficient. Got budget can opt for Motul or Millers.

I'm curious your manual gearbox preference on oil? (Track or non track/situations etc, list Lai)

My initial years, I started off with Torco SGO but as I began upgrading my cars performance, I went for Millers. Having said that, a good oil with low mileage before track days is good enough. If I have driven over 8k km on the gear oils, I'll get it changed before track day. To me, it isn't really about branding as most does their job well since we are not in endurance racing. Oil change frequency is more crucial than getting the most expensive oil.

Likewise for engine oils. If I have done no more than 5000km on it, it is good for track day. Just top up to level due to the extreme g force changes. Anything more, I'd go an oil change before.

That's me lah, coz I wanna make sure I protect what I can. It's not a track dedicated car where I need lube change every track sessions. At the same time, I'd wanna be sure it is protected as well for longevity. My track days were merely 3-4 times a year.

Thanks for the detailed reply bro!
I concur and well said!



This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 4 2022, 11:54 AM

On less serious note, all genuine Civic Type R had very nice no plate like 99%. Converted got normal plate no.

My car previous owner just use honda semi 10w30 for normal drive, but changed every 5k km. Gear oil he use honda mtf3 gear oil. For track he use motul 300v for engine oil and motul competition lsd for gear oil.

Currently im using kendall fully gt-max fs 10w30 engine oil and redline mtl for gear oil. No track, just daily drive.

Bro just curious, what do you think of FN2R? Price for DC5 seems to be sky rocket too, now over 120k even if direct owner.

I am replying under new user as the previous required a reset by LYN, and I no longer have access to that email which was an older company registered email. Hence, my new user name.

Anyway, I have not been a fan of smaller cars, especially hatches or versions of it. And FN2R, which if I recall is a EURO spec model, and slightly detuned against the JDM K20A to meet emissions control. Though that can be countered with a quick flash by Hondata Flashrpo.

I like fast but practical 4 door cars. Hence my current E90 M3 instead of the common E92 M3.

Hmmmm...Have you test drive FN2R yet? I mean at least a short aggressive drive like you did with FD2R. Just wondering how it handles

FYI there's an EP3 type R currently on sale in Johor around rm120+k, so you may want to consider that too if within your budget.

Not a fans of EP3 actually
I am considering for FD2R, FN2R and DC5

Ic, is it because of the look?

Not sure how to explain this, to me EP3 is indeed a beautiful car, a 2 door coupe and unique gear lever. It just that, the car didn't "spark" in my eyes.

I have to admit, I did not. Because it wasn't my cup of tea to begin with I have seen it on track before and in stock form, I can see more body roll at turns in SIC. It doesn't look to be as rigid as FD2R. For some, that could be a good thing because FD2R in stock form, is really stiff. I had Ohlins on my FL FD2R and it was more compliant to Malaysia's famous road quality. On stock suspension and on uneven roads, you can see your rear passengers bobbing up and down via your rear view mirror. It was a sight to behold, especially ladies with heavy

Last time I got see what difference between FD and FDR in a magazine in kinokuniya. It's in Japanese. But lots of pictures that highlights differences. I remember the engine has polished intakes from factory. All the suspension is different. The control arms are also different. Running different camber also. The chassis has different reinforcement all round.

I think TS asking a converted FDR vs ori stock FDR

Yes. So the things that cannot upgrade is chassis. I suspect the front lower assembly also different and not pnp.

weight is same! hahaha

You did a FD2 to FD2R conversion before?

Got a DC5R now on sale for 90+k, engine already k24.
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