Thanks for sharing.
Nice ride.
RM2K for full exterior and clear coat?

2k full car is cheap.. do you know or spotted what brand of paint he is using?

How long did it take for your car?

got ask him use what type clear coat and how many layer bo

got ask him use what type clear coat and how many layer bo

because i know some........don't even bother to cerita...but pudar within 2 years.

Thanks alot, if he can do the special 4 layer Mazda car paint and toyota now white pearl will be fantastic

Thanks TS. Even with Porsche also went to regular uncle shop. Will plan send my 7 years old Sedan car for repaint after all stone chip accumulated in front of the car plus here & there scratch.

Went ask one famous workshop in IG, quoted rm4.5k for normal repaint.

When you say full car repaint it means paint back the same colour as the original colour or paint to a different colour?

Full car repaint includes outside, inside, engine area?

hurm....based on recommendation i might drop by.

the problem is, is it possible to request him to have high quality paint instead?

having good workmanship but not good paint is kinda....hurm...missing smth

Just sharing what I hv been thru. You don't really need to care much about the basecoat aka paint that much. Any OK brand will be more than fine, unless you're going for special paint process like pearl colour.

What you should aim for instead is the workmanship. This is easier said than find, much like hitting a jackpot. The processes that went thru behind the scene, right b4 the paint and clear coat spraying is the most important part that one should have eagle-eye on. This is where the sanding/stripping, puttying/filling (panel knocking is normally done by panel beaters elsewhere), cleaning/washing etc. are performed.

The other important aspect you should pay something attention to is the clear coat selection. Price varies wildly from less known to renown brands. You will find big variance in price even within the same brand, between the general purpose and the higher range. Try aim for mid-range high solid clear coat of any brand(s) that your selected paint shop carry.

Also take note that plastic part that is meant to be painted should have plastic primer as the primer. Some wonder why factory paint on bumpaer doesn't crack after small/minor accident. Aftermarket works may skip plastic primer and instead, use filler to smoothen plastic surfaces. Then just spray on sligthly thicker basecoat and clear coat.

My 2sen.

Personally using Glasurit 923-255 on Nippon Paint grey basecoat for my wira, and Cromax CC6400 on Cromax normal basecoat for my Elantra.

I have nothing but praises for 923 . Exactly 10yrs old now, gloss and wetness is still top notch. Bear in mind this car is kept outdoor since respray. Also super duper lazy to wash car, with maybe 1 wash a year (b4 cny). I am really impressed with this performance. Cost was 2.3k for exterior only with some minor panel beating and minor rear bumper readjustment back in 2011.

Cromax job was quite recent, early Q4 2019. I would rate CC6400 gloss and wetness to on par with 923. But difference is CC6400 is on black basecoat. Had some issue with the Cromax basecoat; specifically basecoat adhesion problem. Had to rework certain panels due to basecoat peeling after 1 month. Cost was 3.5k for exterior only with both bumpers adjustment (accident) and 1 panel repair/beating.

On both cars, I applied same instruction to the paintshops; Do not G3 the surfaces excessively; I can live with orange peel effect. Coz I want the clear coat to be as thick as possible. If I want, I can decide later to send to pro detailing centre for some correction works.

As for oven for paint process, my opinion is you DON"T need it. What you should aim for is a well maintained paint booth. Paint booth is there to reduce contaminants (dust and/or lint particles) from surrounding, which is very important before the spraying processes start and while waiting for the coatings to dry. It will also reduce overspray if everything is working well due to airflow.

Seen b4 at some shops (obviously I dropped them out of my shortlist) that appear to be in bad shape. I would not send a car to be resprayed there. So remember go recce the paint shops you have shortlisted to gauge their worth.

p.s.  I normally would avoid going to those insurance co panel repair shops. They have a very big volume of cars to be repaired, so don't set your expectation high.