That out to be the way but there are occasions when it is not eg

1. Incorrect use of jumper cables leading to burnt ECU / TCU
2. Different car makes different procedures like in some Peugoet its remove positive first then the negative etc
3. Client interferring during installation eg a client was so eager to get back that he started the vehicle without my approval which ended up blowing a few fuses luckily.

Old cars without many electronics easier but newer cars dont play play, later cannot start. Then must call tow truck to SC etc etc.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Jul 11 2021, 04:38 PM

those two app can u choose certain type of battery depending on ur car or they already got their own battery company for u?

The reason for removing the +ve first is that the whole car body is -ve. Removing the +ve side of the battery can ensure that even if the dangling +ve wire touch any part of the car body accidentally, there is no electrical short. It is just logical step as extra precaution though not mandatory.

In olden day, there are few car model that has +ve body (+ve side of battery connected to car body). Not sure if there is still car having that configutration nowadays.

The problem with modern cars is that some setting are lost when battery is removed. When battery is weak, you may not able to start the car but there is still power left in battery to retain the setting. Therefore, mechanic will jump a cable to external battery to keep the memory setting before removing the battery. Put new battery and only then remove the temporary external battery. Some just jump start the car with external battery or with other car, By leaving the engine on, the memory setting is retained even when the old battery is removed because alternator is taking chage to power the car when engine is running.

Yeah, both sell different brands like Varta and Amaron for example, depending on your budget.

Bateriku for me...CIMB got RM10 discount for bateriku now i think...

If driving normal car (ie not a conti full of electronics) that can readily accept battery changes just buy a Varta or Amaron (check series don't get the lowest range) + china RM2 10mm spannar can self change.

In this respect if you have a godkar (maivee) then u have to complete the swap within 10 seconds else the car detect no battery inserted when engine running and auto shut down.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jul 11 2021, 11:29 PM

I don't quite get you here. If shorting due to dangling cable touching car body is a concern, wouldn't it be the same if we remove the -ve cable first, since the -ve cable is connected to the car body and touching it won't do anything?

The other end of +ve cable can be accidentally touch the car body and cause short. The -ve side is not a concern if it touched the car body or chassis. It is not just about the two +ve and -ve sides of cable shorted. That is a concern too but at least reduce chances. That is why the safe practice is to remove the +ve.

sorry sifus, quick question to validate my understanding.

my car start every week for 20 mins cause i am working from home .
suddenly the car doesnt start and even after jump start it doesnt charge back.

bateriku customer service told me if car not start 1-3 days it is going to happen (but i only changed the battery last year Nov)..

betol ka what bateriku CS said??

Wait...have I been learning the wrong thing all this while? Isn't it supposed to be remove -ve first and install -ve last?

The reason to remove -ve first is because that is tied to the car body. If the -ve terminal touch the car body it won't have shorts. But if you remove the +ve and the terminal touch the body, there might be residue voltage from the +ve devices touching which will transfer through the +ve terminal and create a short.

A random googling says to do -ve first and even some youtube videos also say remove -ve first. Where do you learn about the removing +ve first?






This post has been edited by abubin: Jul 14 2021, 03:31 PM

Let me go point by point.

1) my car start every week for 20 mins,
- does it mean, you just start the engine and let it run at idle speed for 20 mins aka no actual driving? At Idle speed, your alternator is just pumping small Amps to the battery.
- Usually I prefer to charge my battery first partially first, then only start driving. Not just leave it idle for 20 mins. That's if you have a charger. This to minimise the "Depth of Discharge"
Its not wrong for us (SOP related) to drive out as so long don't exceed 10KM.

Actual driving allows your engine to drive the alternator at 2000-3000RPM, more amps = better charging.

2) bateriku customer service told me if car not start 1-3 days it is going to happen
- Previously when I didn't had my charger, one of my car (Exora) , was left without moving for 2 weeks. Thank god, it still started right up, and drove like normal. Since then I invested in a charger. That way I don't need to drive just to charge. Its charged up and ready to use.

3) even after jump start it doesnt charge back.
- Very hard to say without knowing whats was the last voltage read out and without battery tester to test the battery condition. You still need to tell how you charge it back - is it by idling the engine alone.

Happen what bro ? Biar habis cerita dulu, ini potong stim je. 😊

I dont know what transpired but if there is a Battery Conductance & Electrical System Test done and if you can share that info here, it would surely help. Kalau malu, send to me je la.

I guess you are tight. I may have twisted my mind over time since it is not something I've done often. So, probably it is just based on my logical thinking.

Say you have both ends of cable connected to batteries on two cars. If I remove the +ve, I need to make sure the clip does not touch any part of the car and this is difficult since the +ve and -ve sides are attached to each other, splitting on very end only. So, if the cable moves a bit, the +ve side may accidentally flips and touch car body and cause short since the other end of the +ve cable is still connected to battery. However, it is two different cars. Will it cause the short? Never tried

My thinking is if the -ve side is removed, then it is safer because the -ve side touches the car body it is still -ve.

So, I guess you are right and I'm using the other way around

Wait a minute, you were referring to jump starting steps ?

Seriously, Bateriku succeeded in only making sales pitch to sell more batteries than providing quality advice. Just like how Amaron sells, because of the warranty, not the quality. Prove me wrong if Amaron can "really last".

Bro., nice to hear from you again. I cannot speak for Amaron because 1. I personally have not used Amaron battery before and 2. I have clients coming in complaining about Amaron. When Amaron launched its 36 month battery warranty I thought it would be game over for other brand but then when I think about it, nah it ain't happening. Something just doesn't up for me. Anyway time will tell.

I guess with the pandemic and with failing economy, selling more & more batteries takes precedence over everything else. So for some companies providing the correct advice is against their interest as that will limit their sales. Whether it was done intentionally or unintentionally (if lacked the correct knowledge), we will never know but it sure as hell tempting to pull a fast one.

As for me, it is easier to spill the beans and see where the chip falls, hopefully on my side. That is why I like clients who are completely fed up with their average 1 year battery life span and since they have no one else to turn to, they have to try me out. Blind faith ? LOL. However when they see the results, then they will finally understand why I am so adamant about how things must be done properly.

I think its all about education, the willingness of wanting to learn. The more willing one is willing to learn, the faster that client will achieve better results than compared to a client whom does not want to learn for whatever reason halfway. I guess that's life, ada yang cerdik dan ada yang kurang cerdik. 😂

Happen = dead battery
i dont have any equipment and all to do the testing so i couldn't tell.
i just couldn't believe that the quality of batteries dropped so much that 1-2 days not starting a car might bring problem.

the "tech" arrived told me that if parking at basement temperature will drop and thats why need to start every 1-2 days...

1) I did put on neutral and goes to about 2500 rpm to charge back at least for 10-15 mins..

2) i bought a powerbank from baseus to jump start.. does that help?

3)i go Neutral and pedal to 2500rpm..

Without being able to make a real assessment on the battery, I am purely guessing at this point on it plausible causes.

It could be possible that you were accidentally given an old stock
It could be possible the vehicle charging system is not perfect.
It could be possible that there exists parasitic drain

You dont need to have any special equipment. Your battery supplier should have it or even your vehicle Service Center. They ought to provide you the results, if they want your business.

A new good quality battery will be able last much longer without needing to start the car. However as the battery ages and especially with lockdowns leading to low usage, the battery is being constantly discharged and kept in a discharged state much longer period instead of being recharge by the alternator frequently, that leads to premature battery failure through sulphation and stratification. The saying holds true, use it or lose it.

Let me give you an example of my clients battery status. Both same battery size & capacity. Daughter is a banker and exactly 1 year the battery had lost only 15% of its capacity. The mother, a retiree duduk rumah since covid outbreak within 6 months had lost 30% of battery capacity. That ought to give you some perspective of things huh.

I doubt basement temperature would affect that much, unless your parked vehicle bonnet is exposed to the sun's afternoon rays at certain times of the day. Otherwise I would just dismiss the installer words.

If there are no adverse effects on your vehicle by you removing the negative terminal, then just buy a battery disconnect if your battery post is the large sized one. However this is not applicable for modern power guzzling vehicle otherwise you might need to tow it later and incur more charges.

Silly me, I forgot in your situation, since your battery died in less than a year right, proceed to claim for warranty. By the way, what is the brand of the dead battery ?