PSA on electrical safety since you haven't started anything.

For water heater safety
WH circuit if you are redoing the wiring for it, use 4.0mm² cables per ST spec.
Good cables from Mega Kabel/Caramay/Fajar Cable cost more. But they are "cheng liu" with all the SIRIM legit certification.
There are elcheapo/fake cables at half price I also don't dare to install in customer premises. Safety first.

More importantly each WH circuit (basically each unit) need its own 10mA RCD/RCBO 0.01A (NOT 0.1A).
Check DB box to see if such thing exist.

For further reading  Guideline_for_The_Design_Installation_Inspection_Testing_Operation_and_Maintenance_of_Water_Heater_Systems__1_.pdf ( 4.49mb ) Number of downloads: 25


Having a 10mA RCD fitted will prevent the likelihood of becoming news material.
https://www.straitstimes.com/asia/se-asia/m...e-having-shower
https://www.malaymail.com/news/malaysia/202...c-shock/1896447


For whole house electrical safety
Per ST (Suruhanjaya Tenaga) regulations - to be fully compliant - you should use a 30mA whole house high sensitivity RCD (0.03A NOT 0.3A) for human life safety.

100mA & 300mA RCDs should only be used in commercial/industrial as they are NOT very useful to protect human life
They are commonly fitted in residential as they are indeed cheap coz less sensitive and they are only good for preventing building from catching fire.

PSA on your 1F yard extension wall design.

Remember kids can and will climb over anything when you are not watching for a moment.
Pls use ONLY either:
solid wall or VERTICAL elements if you are putting in metal rails.

HORIZONTAL elements have been outlawed in the US, UK for staircase railings and safety barriers.
However this is from a newly VPed high-rise project see the danger?

Most welcome. Good to know you've got someone competent to handle the electrical works.
DC pump WH is better than AC. AC pump always noisier than the DC pump.

However if water pressure is good enough (this one really need to bring a hose to test on site) i.e. using just your thumb [fingerprint, not stuffing the thumb inside the hose ] to cover the water flow, try to stop the water, then you may NOT need a pump model.

> If you can stop the water with your thumb = water pressure weak. Get WH pump model.

> If it is virtually impossible to stop the water with your thumb = water pressure good. WH pump optional.

I have a Pana Bayu 4 windless wonder POS fan. It is essentially the biggest regret of my life. I have installed and uninstalled it in 3 rooms from living to MBR to finally stuffing in smallest room. Windless as in even at max speed u put tissue on the table the tissue stay there, will never blow off. Want to donate away to people also I heartache to transfer uselessness to other people.

For ceiling fan
On a budget: The regulator 60" is cheap and produces most wind (8122 cfm or 230m³/min) it just doesnt look pretty.

Remote fan 56" <300 bucks usually metal blade. KDK OK. Pana latest range are POS, 2018 model windless, 2014 one strong wind.

Remote fan 56" 400 bucks Vtouch Jr/515 bucks Sensa 4 ABS blade, there is some better tech in the blade angle and they are excellent cfm too (225m³/min). These all use the same blade, tried and true design.

To reiterate NEVER ever buy a Pana POS remote fan (Bayu 4). Many forumer also regret in ceiling fan threads. Get a KDK.

KDK and Pana made in same factory, but Pana factory can modify Pana design and cost cutting suka hati as they are the principal.
KDK model made under license, local Pana assembler cannot modify spec, design, or cost cut without principal approval.
That is the fundamental difference.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 8 2021, 10:29 PM

Rumaweep 9.5 feet. Brand new in box POS.
I made the mistake of buying in 2018. Installed in 2019, no warranty.
It make a lot of grok grok noise at slow speed 1-2 even if i stripped the "dinner plate" naked.

P.S. I installed many fans in my lifetime, this was my 2nd Bayu 4.

I have a 2014 variant which works beautifully.

POS = Piece of Shite.

Sensa 4 (around RM515), DC brushless.
https://shopee.com.my/KDK-K14ZW-56-Sensa-4-...5032.5642458864

All AC motor are brushless.
DC motor can be brushed or brushless type so need to make sure its brushless for long life.





Sensa 4 (DC) is using same blades as Vtouch Jr (AC) and the previous EOL model Sensa 4 (AC).
This 56" blade design makes about 225m3/min wind which is very plentiful.
ABS blade is very quiet. No funny sounds like the POS Bayu 4 scraping against the center core.
Also, the safety device for Vtouch Jr/Sensa is using metal hook to the center core chassis.

The POS Bayu 4 design is using a "clothes peg wire" as the safety device to prevent blade from flying off.

You can go up to the Sensa 5 (DC) current model as well. The more fancy Nikko, Kaze are more nice-to-haves and doesn't make more wind lol.



No noticeable difference, I have a whole mix of fans 3-4-5 blades as long as it is not a faulty unit.
Wind sound is silent.

There is some slight differences in power consumption and cfm between the 4- and 5- bladed variants but it is within a few % you won't notice in a blind test.
4-bladed balancing is easier to do. 5-bladed ones more tricky to balance.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 8 2021, 11:28 PM

Whilst I do my own home wiring and the likes (DB box refresh with like for like) I don't possess a Wirewoman cert (I used to sell and commission inverters and production line (automation) sensors for industry/SME). A definition of "competent persons" based on https://www.st.gov.my/en/web/application/details/7/17 will be PW1 (Single Phase Wireman) or PW3 (Three Phase Wireman) certified personnel. I'm sure there are such wiremen who follow standards but mostly from what I see a lot have cowed to price pressure (to survive and win jobs) and do not strictly follow the ST requirements for residential wiring.

Usually new homes' wiring will still be following ST guidelines somewhat, what we can do here (easily) is that you take a picture of your consumer unit ("DB box") and upload here as attachment (NOT the "Upload Images" imgur pic as its hard to zoom). Then we'll look at it and see if anything major needs rectification.



FOR BETTER LYN FORUMER COMMENTARY
What we would want to see in your DB box are all the green text portions, i.e.
1. Overview of the DB box components (just open the user accessible panel). NO NEED to open the service panel.
2. Close ups of all the bigger blocks inside. We need to see the markings clearly to be able to comment.




FOR TESTING 13A SOCKETS
Some people use their phone charger. Phones must be cheap nowadays to risk as test devices.
I recommend bringing along one cheap table lamp (using a 230V bulb) just to plug/unplug test out the sockets.
This will ensure your sockets have power + not expensive to replace test equipment + correct phase-neutral (=230V) wiring NOT phase-phase (=415V) connection

FOR TESTING LIGHT/FAN CIRCUITS
Need a ladder and an assistant. Usually just test out with test pen to see the switching works/ or to label/map out your switches control which item.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 9 2021, 12:40 PM

FOR WALL WITH VENTILATION BLOCKS
This design is for relatively dry yard wall or is it gonna be exposed to rain always?
Coz if exposed to rain, you may wanna apply waterproofing (Sika 109) coating and paint over exterior sealer (eg Nippon 5400) and use weatherbond or equivalent (weatherproof paint). It will be easier to clean (blow with leafblower or brush out) dust only but if its all black and green with algae and moss, really good luck

What causes the algae and mold..basically boil down to the steps used, if just cincai paint over with elcheapo emulsion (those 18L 60 bucks white) paint only, no waterproofing, no proper sealer.. i have witnessed firsthand (on landed garden wall with old design ventilation blocks) it grows moss and algae and its tricky to clean out once the fungus set in. Didn't bother to repaint since we not on talking terms with that side neighbour

FOR CONCRETE TABLETOP
Constructed properly with necessary rebar and rebar is "jacked" up to settle inside at the midpoint thickness ie. Not lying on the bottom of poured cement, would be pretty bulletproof and strong.

Depending if youre finishing it with tiles or bare cement, if bare look can Sika waterproof it to be easier to clean..otherwise oil, sauce stain may soak inside (normal concrete molecule is like a sponge loves to absorb water)..by applying waterproofing it fills up the pores with polymer modifiers, basically its a full surface "stop leak".

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 9 2021, 02:36 PM

Generally this is the bane of concealed wiring.
In my block, i do small job add sockets from existing..I just started to open the socket only, wire edi popped loose. Not even screwed in properly!!

SELF CHECK SWITCHES & 13A SSO
If got time, test a hot/live terminal w test pen to make sure ur test pen is alive.
Turn off everything in DB box and tape it shut with masking tape. Open up each socket 1 by 1. Test w test pen on every contact, ALL wires incl earrh to make sure all wires are not energised. As idiotas can wire wrongly green cable to live.
Inspect the wires theyre not loose by tugging them gently.

Note: This may ruin the silicone seal some developers put on the switches n sockets - but without actual inspection you never know if wires are loose. Loose connections cause fires.

-------
W.R.T. DEVELOPER WIRING
Mostly light cables are on point 1.5mm² and 13A SSO cables 2.5mm².
This part usually never go far wrong (w.r.t cable sizing).
Common points of code violations include:
1. wrong colour code (cable colour doesnt reflect actual purpose, eg green is E but used as L);
2. swapped L and N (or other nonsense);
3. loose connections (not screwed properly)
4. idiota doing the job (screw on insulation rather than on the copper).
5. RCD selection
a) Usage of "useless for residential" whole house RCD 300mA (0.3A). as explained in PSA post above.
b) Lack of whole house RCD 30mA (0.03A) as explained in PSA post above.

The usual code violations for WH (water heaters); i.e. are:
1. Usage of barely passing cable of 2.5mm² (ST guideline 4.0mm²)
and/or
2. Lack of dedicated 10mA RCD or RCBO for WH circuits.

The 2.5mm² cable size will limit your WH selection to only 3kW class models. 4.8kW models not applicable to 2.5mm² wiring (FIRE RISK).

On a sidenote, generally the better brands for DB box components will be (top tier) ABB/Hager/Schneider, (midrange) local brands, (recommend to change) elcheapo China brands .. whilst all are also SIRIM certified.. but there are quality differences. Personally I use top tier stuff like ABB for my own home although I don't make much money to afford a nice landed, but peace of mind when sleeping is important.

My rumaweep came with some elcheapo China brand, I deleted whole DB box and installed a proper one with top tier components.

--------
TLDR FOR MOST IMPORTANT CHECKPOINTS
Mostly the area of high concern in your case are WH circuits and kitchen sockets (13A SSO) as this is where u use high powered appliances the most.
Water pump doesnt really consume that much power

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 9 2021, 04:21 PM

Yup. Boleh pakai lah.

Snipped out some.

POWER POINTS
Yup, the more the better, for kitchen can also use the 4mm² to run each cable-run to dual socket (double socket), it will be sufficient to run 2x heavy appliances.
This is where I will recommend using MK sockets, the internals are better built. Only 4.60-5 bucks/ea for single socket.
Socket got fat (frameless) and flush type (frame).. for the one with frame use MK or even not so famous brand like RANK they don't pop out so easily, Schneider frame one always pop out and is kinda nuisance.

Even for rooms also can consider to add few more or make everything convert to double socket in-situ without changing wires, it will be more than sufficient for lighter duty thins. More sockets around also greatly reduce the need for having a lot of extension plugs, especially for desktop or your computer room, all those chargers and other things can directly plug into wall.

-----
FANS

60" 3-blade regulator also work perfectly, even abused in school at max speed it manage to last awhile. The regulator box just need replacing after 6-10 years. Fan should last 15-20 years if not abused like school max speed everyday. The price/performance ratio is very good but just the aesthetic it doesn't look pretty lah. For <RM200 it produce the most airflow ~8100cfm.

Any 56" 4-blade remote from KDK will work perfectly.
Just no confidence in Pana remote fan since lately alot of lemon unit. For the size and from my OLD Pana 2014 it does produce a lot of wind already for a large master bedroom.
4-blade 56" even the KDK metal bladed <RM 300 also give about 7500cfm due to its size.
More canggih 400, 500 bucks basically will get you 4 blade with ABS blade and yuragi (natural breeze variable speed mode) /4 blade with ABS blade and yuragi and DC motor and room sensor (nice to have)

40" or similar smaller size fan the airflow will be lesser.

-----
HOOD & HOB (STOVE)
Hood wise there's a few types but the best one is the vented one (vent to outside). Check flow rate. The venting should be as vertical as possible (hot air goes up), long horizontal run may not work as well.
Recirculating hood not as good as vented, but still can-use-lah if venting is an issue..this was created more for high rise ppl coz not everyone can hack a CD-ROM hole in the wall (alot of stuctural wall=cannot hack issue).

We've also been using a recirc Fujioh hood from the previous owner (installed maybe around 1997), the hood still works well and reliable until today, only thing need to change after so many years is just the bulb. And occasional cleaning coz all the oil buildup still need to clean

Hob wise.. usually look for cast iron pot holder for long lasting.. also in terms of burner power need to check -
as hobs are either two or three burners, squeezing three kancil into same space not the same power (per burner) as just two preve.
of coz, a standalone Scania lorry head (like the tabletop Rinnai RTL-35KS) will not be as pretty, since when lorry pretty la.. but wok hei on it alone (single stove) can be as good as turning on all the three kancils or two preves together.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 10 2021, 07:37 PM

After 3 twist in sockets (estimated 110 each) can already buy a Bosch rotary hammer to dig the hole for more sockets if you do the traditional hacking and looping
Its still limited by your cable sizing from DB, as what those tracks alao doing are essentially high class looping.

The cheap and dirty solution is looping points or douhle sockets. Minimal hacking required just to expand the hole in the wall at the socket location.
Assuming ur original wiring is 1 13A socket per 1 circuit. This will usually be on 2.5mm² cable and MCB 20A at the miminum spec. This 20A MCB is sized to protect the cable which can support 21A.

Two 13A sockets, i.e. replacing the single socket to double socket, between them the total load supported can be up to 20A. Whether 13+7 or 11+9 or 10+10A still wont trip the MCB (within limit) if 20A MCB is used for that 1 circuit. If max out both at 13+13=26 > 20 so will trip.
This assume ur original wiring is 1 circuit = 1 socket. If 1 circuit actually feed more than 1 socket originally then this will not work well for kitchen heavy appliances.

-----
There will still be hacking needed if you want to do new circuit direct from DB. Plaster ceiling hide the ceiling run.
From ceiling drop to socket, u still need a vertical hacking line on the wall.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 19 2021, 02:37 PM

Most welcome. Very clear picture
Generally looks OK in terms of correct big blocks fitted and 10mA's for the WH too.

Once u have ceiling lights fitted,
test the 100mA "ELCB" (first one on bottom row, immediately NEXT to main switch) by pressing the test button.
The 100mA should trip to OFF. Maintain 100mA OFF.
Maintain the other 30mA ELCB ON..
All ceiling lights should be dead.
13A sockets (test table lamp) should be operational.

Then flip back the 100mA ELCB up to ON position.
Test the 30mA "ELCB" (middle of bottom row AWAY from main switch) with the test button.
The 30mA should trip to OFF. Maintain 30mA OFF.
Maintain the other 100mA ELCB ON.
All ceiling lights should be operational.
All 13A sockets (test table lamp) should be dead.

Lastly turn the 30mA ELCB on and resume normal operation.

If expected result follow above then all good.
Reversed result (i.e. 30mA ELCB is off but 13A socket still all operational) is swapped and needs corrective action.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 22 2021, 11:42 PM

For the additional RCD on water heater circuit, not required. Regulations say after leaving DB box no break in the circuit

The 10mA RCD inside DB box for water heater protect whole WH circuit already ie from the DB box including WH unit. The WH circuits' RCD compare current in equals to current out operating on a very tight (strict) tolerance under normal operation (no current was "lost" like 2MDB funds), so a direct test for those 10mA's each using their respective test buttons will suffice (need to keep both the master 30mA and 100mA "ELCB" ON) as the individual WH circuits' 10mA's are connected as "subcon" to either one of the 30 or 100mA "main con".

The WH circuit itself (as subcon) is regulated to have a very sensitive 10mA (very low tolerance) RCD.
The main con regulation (master "ELCB" according to the not so accurate sticker label) feeding the WH circuit can be either the stricter 30mA "ELCB" or the "close one eye" 100mA.
Personally I prefer stricter 30mA as maincon for the WH 10mA subcon, but according to the regulations they can use up to "close one eye" tolerance level ie the 100mA as maincon.

To determine which maincon ELCB feeds the power to the WH, by turning OFF only the 30mA master "ELCB",
see if the WH unit still operational to give hot water.
If no power to WH unit when ONLY the 30mA master is OFF..meaning good, it is stricter secondary protection.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 23 2021, 12:43 AM

Q1: it doesn't really tie to the house size. It tie to ur SoW. Depends on what will be hacked out. In my condo almost everyone here is 1200sf or bigger and they only use 1 bin. Unless you also plan to throw our bulky old sofas too. Anyhow bin tull already still can order a 2nd load. No issue.

Q2. Can be just the price of one vacuum cleaner if DIY. Sand and other big stones can sweep. Bur vac will condemn with the fine dust.