Can I ask why measure AC amps at DB box? Is it a normal test for troubleshooting? Curious to learn

The other thing is, I notice the regular residential DB is really crammed with wires, especially at the E & N bars; I'm curious how the clamps can be used. Perhaps only on the big wires in & out of the ELCB & main breaker?

LOL iinm I understand the clamp is really to measure current by inductance (also non-contact safety iinm). But I see many youtubers (some probably working electricians) use the clamp to hang up and free the hands (good idea ). On the other hand, I notice Fluke DMMs have a magnetic strap accessory to do the same thing.

Can I have your opinion on the Fluke 101 for basic troubleshooting residential wiring - light switches, power sockets, aircon/water heater switches? Is it sufficient? Not going to use for troubleshooting appliances that have capacitors ... just wiring (with the mains OFF)

Thanks in advance

PS: I guess key criteria would be reliability & safety which everyone would expect from Fluke. Not so much features. Suggestions for other affordable brands/models most appreciated

This post has been edited by okuribito: Oct 14 2021, 07:17 PM

thanks... would you know what test it is that need to check current Amps in the DB? I read that to prove DB is dead, NCV and Voltage is sufficient (haha dangerous to DIY work on live db)

This post has been edited by okuribito: Oct 14 2021, 09:53 PM

hahaha go to sleep for now & when u wake up refreshed, read my post again... I an inclined towards getting the fluke 101 BUT 2 of the pros are telling me to get a clampmeter which I know I DON'T need

Goodnight bro

TQ for your reply. Much appreciated

IMHO normal householders would not be concerned with the things you described. I dunno if by AC, you mean aircon or alternating current. And by WH you mean watthours or some appliance. Either way, I'm not interested in measuring amps

I can only think of ppl who are wondering why their TNB bill is high & hence wanna "measure" how many amps is running thru which circuit at the DB. Rest assured, I'm not one of them - I'd rather just read the owner's manual or the sticker on the appliance. That's why I don't see the need for a clamp meter; but that's only me LOL



Oh yes! LDL - always prove against a known live. And always zero out the leads & check if the Hold button's been accidentally activated previously


The question then is why would I wanna measure current? My end objective is safety. Will knowing how much current runs thru that wire on circuit xyz add to my safety? If not, I'll pass

TQ for explaining. Helps me decide


I thought the 101 is auto-ranging & cannot fool around selecting specific ranges. And on the contrary, someone said that without an amp socket in the 101, there was less chance for a noob to stick the probe in the wrong socket & blow a fuse

hehe what's this WH? sounds more like an appliance in this context

Edit: LOL water heater hahaha now I can go to sleep

It was just a comparison with using the clamp of a clampmeter for hanging the meter up LOL ummm like using a fridge as a cabinet for stuff??



Couldn't agree more!!!

This post has been edited by okuribito: Oct 15 2021, 12:36 AM

you're a champ, maam!!!

No, not that I "like" the Fluke ... just that it's simple & got reputation for quality. Yeah I know it's made in PRC but even Sanwa has mfg in Shenzen

Shopee price ~150 ... Looks like it's the 1021R for me ... it's got backlight which the F101 does not haha. Kyoritsu also a serious brand, right?

Both the K & the F can diy a strap to hang up but the K wins with the probe holder (though dunno if easy to hold the meter with the probe attached & ***stick into power/switch sockets)

As for the test lead design, I only wish the distance between the finger guard & the testing end is longer & the insulation narrower - so that it's easy to find&contact the fixing screws in tight quarters (switches and power sockets). Unfortunately, I think none of the brands have this

Thanks again... you been super helpful & generous with your knowledge

some links:
https://www.kew-ltd.co.jp/files/en/manual/1..._92-2238B_E.pdf
https://www.kew-ltd.co.jp/en/products/detail/00015/
ps: i noticed the upgrade path LOL ...
PPS: *** I mean after opening the faceplate & probing at the terminals at the back



This post has been edited by okuribito: Oct 15 2021, 03:34 PM

Thanks ceo684

Yeah I appreciate the need for some extra length of wire in there as well as not too much; else cannot close the box LOL Still, i think a longer section with narrow insulation between the barrier/finger guard & the tip will speed up work

Btw, I was learning about RCDs and I think I found a use case for current measurement. Since they work on residual current, one might want to find out how much that residual current is.

My friend had a RCCB that just wouldn't reset after a thunderstorm. The electrician said RCCB damaged by surge & recommended to instal a new one. So my friend did that himself; turned off the Main circuit breaker after the meter & took out the old RCCB & put in a new one, ensuring the Line & Neutral were inserted correctly and tightly

Before he turned the main circuit breaker back on, he pushed the RCCB's switch back on; but it wouldn't engage He also had a good look at the old one (not connected at all) and tried to push the switch back on AND he could! So he took out the new one and connected the old one back in the DB. LOL the switch wouldn't engage in the ON position hahaha

He then reconfirmed that the main CB was OFF & removed one of the Neutral wire from the RCCB; tried to push the switch up again - it engaged & stayed up!

We think there's current in the Neutral but none in the Line - that's why the RCCB wouldn't allow the switch to stay up. I'm waiting for my new Kyoritsu to arrive & I plan to go over to measure the amps across the In & Out Neutral poles on the RCCB (mains off) to test our suspicion. What do you think?

This post has been edited by okuribito: Oct 16 2021, 09:06 PM

ummmmmm the thing is that the RCCB refuse to engage in ON position... ie there's a break in the circuit because the RCCB refuse to close the circuit ....so if "touch at in and out N" it is in series.... Isn't it?

Only IF the RCCB is in ON position will "touch at in and out N" be in parallel IMHO haha I wasn't sleeping in form five physics class Am I mistaken? hehe double check


thanks for that practical tip about stressing the meter

This post has been edited by okuribito: Oct 17 2021, 01:11 PM