Sanwa , Uni-T , Flukes
As I check , Flukes too expensive.Between Sanwa and Uni-T.
Flukes only for pro. their main model usually cost more than rm1k. the basic fluke 101 (not true rms) can get around rm150
Sanwa as fluke alternative with cheaper price for pro. dmm basic (not true rms) around Rm100+
Uni-T for hobbyist. basic dmm model less than rm50
*my Uni-T UT33C (not true rms) still going strong after 18 years of use.

Learning for basic testing AC & DC for
-AA recharge Battery (eneloop)
-Phone / Laptop battery ( capacity drop)
U need a spesific charger with battery analizer function such as OPUS BT-C3100 (rm150). expensive wall charger (rm60-150) designed for AAA AA & 18650 mostly but by principal, u can connect a wire from each battery end to the charger. it should detect & analize the capacity since most phone using li-ion battery. as for laptop battery, u need to pry open the battery case & remove each of the 18650 cell & then can check using the charger.

-Check for spoil circuit board location on motherboard or handphone.Finding whether it's capacitor problem or chip transistor .
-Maybe check for spoil board on LED monitor , adapter and find a replacement.
mostly purpose is to check for circuit board error issue when it's not working.
u need to remove capacitor & discharge it 1st before can use capacitor tester or dmm with capacitor tester. u wont get true reading because sometimes those capacitor solder in parallel. on board capasitor testing would need an LCR or ESR meter. can get those around rm60-150. while its not 100% accurate but it will give a big hint for u to remove that spesific capasitor & later test the capacitance using dmm/capacitor tester.
*check capacitor without 1st fully discharge it will kill ur meter instantly.

as for chip test function, the device is expensive & i dont bother to check. usually people just swap a new chip. as i have no experience in changing chip so cant comment further.

Since a beginner , i am not sure which one to choose.
Leaning some basic DIY fixing.

Also , do I need different multimeter to test for car battery or alternator ?
for voltage test u can use normal dmm on battery or alternator. off engine, a good battery should have around 12.8 - 13.5v (give or take). with engine on, u are testing the alternator voltage around 13.8-14.1v. u can use dc clamp meter to check its current.

as for to check battery health & crank power reading, u need a spesific battery charger with analizer function. i dont have one but lotsa variety to choose now. if wana buy, please check if have desulfate function which can recondition ur car battery to factory state as long inside plate not damaged.

#MY RECOMENDATION
for all purpose function, i would recommend Uni-T UT240+ (true rms) @ rm150 on shopee (ship from china). its a clamp meter which can read AC & DC current. most clamp meter only can test AC current & usually cheaper. this clamp meter also act as dmm with capacitor & temp reading. clamp meter with DC current test is good to have if u want to do car wiring repair.

Uni-T UT210E also nice, small clamp meter but AC/DC current max is 100A only while 204+ up to 600A.

for capacitor esr test, u can get MESR-100 (rm180) or LCR meter like M-Tester. got few model priced from rm50-100. eg: LCR-TC1,LCR-T7,TC-T7-H

i myself bought TC-T7-H but im sure its a clone since not showing M-Tester on the lcd display. My mistake la finding the cheapest price on shopee with no rating & picture of actual item. However its functioning well. Wish to get the MESR-100 but its too expensive considering can only check capacitor esr.

*dmm = digital multimeter


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Cold Cranking Amps

https://www.uni-trend.com/meters/html/produ...s/UT210_Series/

UT210C Mini Clamp Meter
all rounder from digital multimeter to AC clamp. sufficient for home electrical troubleshooting. got NCV function, can detect live current without touching the copper directly. the small size make it easier to clamp wire inside db box.

UT210D Mini Clamp Meter
like above spec plus DC current clamp ability. DC current check useful for home electronic projects or in car wiring troubleshooting.

last year the price of UT210D around rm150 (shopee) but i end up with UT204+ (same price range). the reason being 204+ can check DC current up to 600A while 210D only up to 200A. the downside of 204+ is the full size clamp make it a bit hard to clamp wire inside db box.

clamp meter can only measure current on single wire either live or neutral wire, cannot both alltogether since it will cancel each other out become 0amp result. this mean if u clamp on regular home appliances 3 core wire, the result is 0amp. thus electrician would clamp on single wire inside db box to measure ongoing current value. however this purpose only to measure how much CURRENT that spesific wiring from a certain fuse. this process need to be done on LIVE DB BOX. so if u need to ask this, i would advice u to dont open the db box. very dangerous u know especially if alone. ask friend who knows or any electrician.

even before NCV invention, electrician use the trusted philips test pen to test any live current from sockets to db box. test pen is a must while NCV for convinience to any electrician.

if u only wish to check how much ur appliances using current/power. u can use this device. i havent bought any but i bet much safer for u than touching live db box.

https://shopee.com.my/%E2%9A%A1-Energy-Mete...00-ab70c1989485

anyway, what is ur intention with DIY WORK ON LIVE DB?

if u want the fluke 101, then go for it. eventhough it really a basic dmm, it should suffice ur needs. as for me, within the price range of rm150-200, i would rather get uni-t 139 series dmm or uni-t 210 series clamp meter. both series are true rms (depend on model) with all the bell & whistle but china brand lah.

my basic dmm uni-t UT33C still working fine until now. i paid less than rm50 almost 20 years ago.

good luck on ur purchase bro.