Hi all, need advice on the following from ICE sifus. Currently im DIY install speaker units for my car. Fronts are using Herts DSK 165.3 which has its own wiring/supplied wire from manufacturer which I may have overlooked during speaker selection process. Currently I have run new wire runs 16AWG OFC cables to all doors since it will be hooked to 70watt RMS x 4 amp. Now the issue is that I have ran the new wiring and now that I realise the Hertz speaker has its own wire and it's alot smaller/thinner than 16awg, from the photo looks 20-22 awg or maybe 24 perhaps?

[U]Twitter wire[/U]



Crossover wire


Was thinking of soldering the 16Awg wire to the smaller hertz wire and was wondering if there's any issue with it? Since it's diff wire size. Anyone has done it before?

Power wise I think should be no issue as the speaker is designed up to 80W RMS with 160W max power. For rears its a coax so no issue on that.

Why did I run new wires? Well I can't tell which is positive/negative as previous shop didn't label the wire and cut the factory wire sadly. So there's no way for me to know it's polarity except for using one of those SMD devixes (which is quite pricey for one time project)

Appreciate the advice in advance sifus

if you using the hertz crossover, just solder your input wire to the speaker wire from amp. then the rest can use the crossover supplied wire.

if you are running active, then all wire direct to the speaker terminal but for tweeter the connector is too small to accept 16awg, so cut the oem wire as short as possible like say 4 cm, then solder your 16awg with it.

I dun think you can hear a difference with the 16awg direct to terminal / go thru the ori smaller wire at such short distance. This method have lower chance to break the ori tweeter terminal. you wont want the less flexible 16awg to break the copper lead from voice coil to the terminal if you accidentally snap the terminal out.

This post has been edited by howiechoo: Nov 4 2020, 08:20 PM

I see, in that case I'll just use the advice #1 and solder it as per normal from amp to crossover supplied wire since not gonna run it in active anyway. Was looking around other forums and their applications is mostly on home theater (i.e connecting from 16AWG to 12AWG) for extension purposes.

Again thanks so much Howie on the advice 😁