Hello, just wanted to share my keyboard venture.
1st mech keyboard was Corsair strafe with mx silent red few years back.
Heart started itching when 1st saw Logitech g915, what catches me was wireless, thinness, rgb, lightspeed.
Then discovered Razer bw v3 pro, went to lowyat plaza to get it, only green switch was available, bought it anyway.
Regretted after a few days, from silent red to clicky, harsh.
Then discovered hyperspeed multi device, basically pairing Razer hyperspeed mouse to keyboard dongle, save some usb port.
It didn't work with my basilisk ultimate, RMA case open, got RMA number, etc etc.
Bought Ducky one 2 sf mx silent red, like it, but no numpad, no f row.
Razer RMA returned, same issue, no pairing, fed up.
Out of the blue one day discovered I mistype a lot on "c" key, found out key chattering, open RMA again, this time I was thinking to RMA and ask for yellow switch.
But key chattering issue fixed without opening the keyboard, wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle, fixed, RMA closed. (multi-device pairing confirmed support only "new" hyperspeed device at the moment, old ones "might" get support in the future)
Trying to sell the bw v3 pro, no inquiries, decided to swap into silent red from my old strafe.
Done swapping, but later found out the rgb is not as bright as ducky. (razer pbt keycap suck, bought one set to replace bw v3 pro's ABS, better touch but dim rgb effect)
Swapping all keys back and forth from mx silent red and Razer 4 to 5 times now, few things happened.
Broke one of the bw v3 pro's mounting plate positioning pin, bending them back and forth is not fun. have to do it to remove pcb for cleaning, my soldering/desoldering skill sucks, better now.
Ducky one 2 sf uses 0.78A-0.80A on full white (68 key+2 under spacebar), Razer bw v3 pro uses 0.435-0.466A ( 104+4+1 logo), Huntsman mini uses 0.272A (61 key)
USB 2 max 0.5A, or else blue screen. USB 3 max 0.9A.
Razer's switch has light pipe, better lumens/efficiency. mx switches on Razer bw v3 pro just looked dull compared to Ducky one 2 sf.
At one point I was using silent red on left side and Razer green on right side of keyboard.
Playing with spares, I then put silent red stem into Razer's switch housing, it worked, but because Razer's switch housing's bottom is different, silent red stem's bottoming sound's like normal red.
End product is as shown.

Other things to note:
DON'T use K type soldering tip, unsteady hands with solder sucker will scratch the pcb. Use D type, not as sharp, good contact.
Don't "push" solder too much too fast into the pin, it will spill to bottom and to make a mess (to clean that I dismantled plate from pcb and broke one positioning pin.
Old switch housing cover will snap, new ones are more "flexible" "fresh".

Edit: I found one other switch, Kailh Polia with light pipe, Razer's supplier. It's tactile. Anyone know any other switch with light pipe?
Edit2: Razer's wireless hyperspeed response is similar to CM ck350, faster then Ducky one 2 sf.
tested with bloody's keyresponsePK software, have to raise keyboard height to match, have to apply equal pressure.

This post has been edited by Lucifer: Feb 27 2021, 04:24 AM

Hello, since my venture into modding my razer 2 months ago, I have amassed a sizable collection of switches.
It is available for testing in my non-pc related shop in KL if anyone is interested.

I am normally there from 12pm to 6pm, shop close at 6pm.

generally speaking, it's not compatible.
If you can provide more info on your dome switch keyboard, maybe I can help to point out what/where it is incompatible.

This post has been edited by Lucifer: Apr 30 2021, 07:29 PM

Found a video of a person sharing how he cleaned it.
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/file...s/?id=366869403
it's a membrane keyboard with backlit LED.
Things you can do,
clean keycaps, you can do better then in video using wire keycap puller, make sure to dry them. space bar likely to have 3 wall instead of wire stablizer, take care to remove it, remove it last to have a good look under before doing it.
dissasemble and clean top plastic tray, clean membrane inner piece, lube the wall and the keycaps, just like topre lubing. wire stablizer can be cleaned and lubed as well, take care not to bend those.
fix ctrl key issue, most likely too much dirt causing jam.
important things,
dissasemble carefully, logitech is known to use hidden screw everywhere, under sticker under feet.
likely to have wires connecting top and bottom cover when seperated, operated carefully and unplug those connector carefully, making sure to remember how to unplug, how to plug it back.
LED backlit layer mostly a whole layer of pcb just for LED, not very important, clean with isopropyl alcohol.
the 2 pcs membrane layer, try not to seperate them, clean wipe surface with isoproply alcohol. if seperated, must take extra care to make sure no dust between layer when put back together.
the silicone layer clean with soap and water, let dry.
membrane assembly to pcb is important, must align properly and firmy screwed in.
it'll probably take me 4~6 hours, might take you longer if your doing it for the first time.
if any of the plastic caps crack ot break, habis liao, no replacement.

lastly, it's switch/key design is incompatible with mx style switch, so you can't change any other kind of switch into this keyboard. you can modify the type feel by lubing, and that's it.

sure, search in carousell, facebook malaysia mech market.
if yours is hotswappable, easy.
if yours is soldered build, may incur extra charges.

kailh switches? ducky seems to be collaborating with kailh, some ducky keyboard offerd kailh switches in mechanicalkeyboards.com
i just got the ducky pocket from kailh's taobao shop, with kailh box white.
not wireless i know, but handy if you want kailh switches in prebuilt.

tecware with outemu hotswap rivet, can't fit most other switches.
need to modify pin leg or desoldering.

as krayden says, phantom elite is with proper hotswap, non elite is with outemu rivet.
keychron c1/c2 is nice to start with, rather than buying extra gateron yellow, i would suggest choosing gateron red from keychron.
buy additional spring to swap, shopee china seller sell those, most of them sell by bottom out weight.
buy switch opener to use for long time in this hobby.
buy lube for stabilizer for a start.
yellow vs red is just spring weight difference. red = 60/622g bottom, yellow = 65/67g, brown = 62g, black = 78/80g.
bottom out spring weight is different from actuation weight, you can see it in chart below.



you are right bout elite, but no elite mentioned.

new mod for those still struggles with rattling/ticking stabs.


Plumber's Stabilizer mod

Look for the thinnest and smoothest Teflon tape you can find.

Cut off 1~2 inches, the tape is harder to handle if it's longer..

Wrap the tape 2-2.5 times around the wire.

Twist the tape with your fingers to tighten it.

Use your grease of choice after. If the tape becomes transparent that is normal

If your stabilizers have too tight of tolerances it might not be suitable for them
Please check properly that you have thin enough tape before making this 50 cents purchase, i'm not responsible for your money making decisions
Credits to @issey83 for this suggestion.