Hi guys, my home current keep having this water hammering issue which i believe is due to high pressure from municipal water supply. This occur especially during late night where water usage for the city is low. And i found out my shower tap is leaking from stem and i believe this may be the cause.

Anyone can let me know where can i get this water pressure regulator? I searched at lazada and i not sure is this the thing for my case. I need something tat will maintain the set pressure main supply water pressure.

Yes those pics you have are correct. Just that some have an added water pressure gauge and some doesn't. Better to get the ones with the water pressure gauge that way you can see if your suspicion is correct. Usual house water pressure is between 40 - 60 psi. Anything higher and you have a risk of internal water pipes bursting.

Usually installed at the main water pipe (right after your water meter). Make sure you get the correct pipe size ... usually identified either by DN20 / DN15 (different pipe diameter).

Appreciate if u could share u buy from which seller, thinking to install one at my house

Ok thanks. Will try and buy 1 when im back at home.

I got it from Shopee, link below

https://shopee.com.my/product/98755016/1994722148

Delivery took nearly two weeks. It was a China supplier.

Ordered on 6th May 2020, received on 19th May 2020. So far quite happy with the product. Had a metal filter inside it.




I have attached a table on the DN20 / DN15 measure for easier reference so you know what to buy

Thx, appreciate ..later will chk it out

did u also facing over pressure from main pipe?

Did you experience any reduction in flow pressure after installation when more than one pipe/valve being used?

My sis house had the same issue in every 6 months sure will have water leakage at the pvc pipe joints or bidet hose bursting in the middle of the night due to high static pressure & the after effect of water hammering.

After installing the PRV after the meter, it did reduce the impact of water hammering & also able to reduce the static pressure when no water being flow/use. It's been almost a year & no more leakage or hose bursting.

Before PRV:-
Output pressure from main pipe: 5 bar(daytime) & 5.5bar(midnight)
Water hammering pressure: 7 - 9 bar (daytime) & <10bar(midnight)

After PRV:-
Satic pressure set to 4 bar
Effect of water hammering reduce to 4.5 - 5.5 bar.

The only downside that might caused by PRV is that the flow pressure will reduce when more than one output is open.

This post has been edited by juzmafia: May 27 2020, 05:00 PM

The problem you are seeing is too high water pressure. So, you put regulator to reduce pressure.

Water hammering is different thing. Nothing to do with water pressure. It is when you close water valve too fast you hear knocking sound because the piping is knocking on object surround it, thus called water hammering. If you gradually close the valve the effect is less pronounced. The solution for thins is something else. I have watter hammering problem in my house.

water hammering is due to water pressure too high. it is the cause of what u say the pipe is knocking. the water hammer is when the water pressure high, then u suddenly stop it, the inertia of the water suddenly put to stop it will cause the pipe to move.


my worry is also the water output maybe too low but i think if can set to the normal water pressure then it will maintain there shud be fine. cos we just need to regulate the pressure.

i dont know these sell online punya is self-regulating pressure regulator or not. 5 barg, if the outlet become less than 5barg, it will open the valve to allow more flow to maintain pressure, but of coz it will just maintain the 5 barg, inside the valve should have a dome or diaphragm.

This post has been edited by ben3003: May 27 2020, 05:35 PM

Mine has fluctuating pressure. My area is served by a dedicated pump. Initially I wanted to just install a water pressure gauge but did more research and found that can get a 2-in-1.

Then heard of additional horror stories of pipes burst and damaged plaster ceilings with the water overflow. Hence thought that a RM70 investment (and insurance) to protect my internal pipes is not a bad idea.

So far haven't experience any pressure reduction. The valve is adjustable ... just need a flat head screwdriver to turn the valve at the top to adjust the water flow.

5.5 bar is very high water pressure. Good to take nice shower but not good for internal pipes (especially if houses have old piping)

Not necessarily. My house pressure is still lower than 4 and it is still hammering The technique to stopp hammering is different, instead of lowering pressure.

that is because the piping itself is already no well supported. i already said, the water hammering is when the inertia of the water like hit the wall when u stop the water flow. then it will shock back to the water and push the pipe, and thus the pipe hit the structure.

another way is to create a air buffer, which is to install a pulsation dampener.

I know what is water hammering. Actually what I was trying to say was about the leak in piping was not about water hammering due to high pressure. The high pressure was causing leak and hammering was brought into attention.

If the pipe is well braced then even high pressure will not cause hammering as well.

I got one spare unit of this (new, still in box) @ RM75. [SOLD]

COD around PJ area. If interested, can PM me.

Bought for a friend but he decided not to install.




This post has been edited by bigred: May 28 2020, 11:19 PM

I do experience a lower flow pressure after installed PRV.

Statis pressure, yes can maintain at pre-set level.
But once too many valves open at the same time, the pressure drop significantly.

But one good thing about PRV, less need to replace valves from time to time.
Pipe may not leak, as pipe itself withstand much higher pressure than normally water supply if installed properly, but valves do leak, (dripping water a bit even you have close it) as everyday we turn on and off, with high pressure, it wears down valves more quickly, especially those cheap butterfly type of valves, very quickly wear out.

This is what i been experiencing these years, i already redo whole unit piping and even after that the joint at bidet always burst every 6mo exactly. May i know how is your pressure valve working so far? Becos my apartment here during day time the pressure is just nice but after around 11pm then the pressure become crazy..idk if i install the pressure valve then my water will become very slow during day time or not

It's better now after using PRV, no more bidet hose burst.
It will only start with minor leak so you can change the hose before it get worst but so far this only happen to one hose after 2 years plus and it was normal hose.

So far following are the type of hose i've used:
1. Metallic hose with rubber tubing - leak/burst after 6 months
2. Reinforced 15bar hose - it was good but not really suitable due to lack of flexibility and also can cause plastic bidet to crack..
3. Normal DIY PVC hose - start expanding after few days from 1 to 1.5 meter..
4. Metallic hose with nylon braided rubber tubing - using now & also has stainless steel nut.

As i've mentioned before, PRV will affect your flow pressure when more than one water output is open, doesn't mater when the pressure is low or high but it will definitely able to reduce the static pressure & water hammering effect.

If you are using normal hose then i'll suggest you to use high pressure hose which is rated above 5bar and it is fiber reinforced hose or you can also try the new stainless steel braided rubber tubing hose.

Here some example i found:
1. Jopex Shower hose 10bar - reinforced hose
2. Hemos hose - Stainless Steel braided or Fiber reinforced hose
3. Taiwan High gred hose reinforced - spotted similar hose at HomePro but might need to change new holder if the current one is small..
4. Stainless Steel Nylon braided rubber tubing - currently using this, less than one year.

my unit hose are all ok, just the pvc pipe joint always burst in one of the toilet thats why im thinking if i install a pressure regulator at the riser room there connect it after my water meter. wonder it will work or not, where do u install the pressure regulator btw?

Thats funny, the PVC pipe should able to withstand that pressure range..
Did they use SIRIM certified pvc pipe? Do you have any pictures of the burst issue?

I've installed the PRV after the meter so it will reduce static pressure for the whole house piping..

The pvc joint cracked cant see from photo, water will dripping from the crack.
The plumber just bring their own pipes, the pipe yes is approved according to the laser writing on it, but all the joint got no markings.

If it is cracked then probably not a good quality T-joint..
Good one should have some word/specs printed on it & it is thicker..

So far, never had cracked joint, only improperly glued t-joint connection and that was before i had PRV..
Maybe it help in your case..

Off the main water supply and turn on the tap to drain the balance water. Wipe dry the T area and apply pvc glue around the leak area. Wait for an hour to completely dry and turn on the main. If it stills leak, then change the whole piping to stainless steel.

Sometimes a quality product can defect due to batch production problem or mishandling. If is a repeat, avoid buying a replacement from the same shop.

If is pressure problem, then all T or elbow joints would have the same problem. Your particular problem could be the area is without a pipe clip to hold the pipe and prevent 'vibration' when the pressure water passes through.


This post has been edited by mini orchard: Aug 28 2021, 07:09 AM

I found that there is some wording on the broken tee joint, looks like legit brand but im not sure

what is the correct main inlet (after water meter) pressure reading for 3 story house?
got the ansewr already. 4 bar

This post has been edited by OrdernPay: Sep 29 2022, 09:32 AM