Now i'll share my little foundation to u ppl out there
it's consist of PYE-SLATE SEAL + Tamiya X21 flat base mix it 1:1 ratio without dilution...this is my personal
standard flatness for my gundam surface finish.....apply on ur kits with airbrush at recommended 30 PSI -3 inch range

more information regarding the product can be found here http://www.pyeglobal.com/prodetails.php?pa...y=rbs&code=RESL
How it's made manipulable
Compared to the bloodsucker, it's even better than the flat base spray from Mr Hobby series...alongside with the superiority that u can manipulate the surface finish by altering the mixture ratio..
from gloss to super flat hehe...the more flat base u add...the more flat it'll get...in short u can have gloss->semi gloss->semi flat->flat matt->rough flat
in according to the addition of flat base into the original slate seal solution. It's just like normal airbrushing spreading a layer of clear solution with
manipulable amount of granular agent to produce desired surface finish. It's very manageable and you'll like it when ur skill is seasoned by ur respective modelling experience.
How it works
Also it might will work theoritically with other flat base solution such as from the Mr Hobby series...because the slate seal is a medium and binder provider
for the fine granular particles inside those flat solutions...
Why is it better? u ask lolz
Ask u know...canned topcoat has a lame control of muzzle..compared to this airbrush-propelled topcoating solution..sometimes, canned topcoat causes overspray/inconsistency that resulted in heavy coat which forms drips..omg...with this AB topcoat..everything is under the exploitation of ur AB..u can even respray on uncoated(forgotten) surface without concerning overcoating. Furthermore, u are eligible to spray effortlessly on certain areas of ur kits that tends to complexify canned-topcoat spraying attempt.
Additional protection
Another specialty is UV radiation protective layer from the slate seal..yea..it's heavy duty.... that u can even expose ur kits under sunlight without degradation
concern from excessive exposure...it's another way of protecting ur kits and paints of being liable to scratch too...and u can easily clean ur kits with water-based solution without having the protective layer, paint and decal goes off.
Handling and storage
Keep it at room temperate...and BE SURE that ur storage container is really tightly sealed...small seam to surrounding oxydizing agent exposure will lead to
hardening of the solution in like 2 weeks...if u don't realise..also do not tend to let it loaded on your airbrush longer than 2 days, if u were to continue your job time to time..it will cause difficulties in cleaning
Cleaning and maintenance
So far, the dissolving agent to clean this topcoat solution from ur kits or air tools are restricted to methanol and Mr hobby thinner considering the refractoriness of the plastic to sustain any chemical reaction dealt with plastical deformation. Do no attempt to use normal hardware shop-sold thinner on any parts associated with the plastic in contact with the coating..it will cause severe smearing and damaging effect. However, for economical approach, cleaning of non-plastic tools upon finish work with conventional thinner is ok.
Feel free to drop by further suggestions and opinions
This post has been edited by heatdriv3: Nov 1 2007, 07:56 PM
Nov 1 2007, 05:40 PM
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