Not well versed on tyres but i find the stock tyres from Honda noisy and bumpy

my daily commute is drive to work in city therefore traffic jam is there
probably once a month have to go south so got long distance too; i tend to stick to 110 - 140 km/h

if i have to choose, would like less noise in cabin and smoother drive tyres
any suggestion? budget maybe below 700 per tyre

one last question to members, what is the rule of thumb; when to change tires?

mine was based on duration.. for 3 years i got the car never change b4, basically my friend told me the tire still looks ok but i guess out of safety id rather not the risk la

what about you guys??

If free go for it. If need to ask for extra money for the nitrogen gas just forget it.
Just a simple google or youtube a lot of these are just scam (Same as chamber nut change, also a scam) for tire shop to earn more money.

Our air got almost 78.09% nitrogen, so paying extra for it is no brainer.

https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-percentag...ygen-in-the-air

here's my opinion from someone who frequents trackdays

GRIP, the mythical properties everyone keep talking about, but to me it's completely irrelevant in the usual street.

Please, don't kid yourself - when was the last time you heard your tyre screeching while take a corner?
Or braking, most ppl thinks grippier tyre = better emergency stop, it's true to a certain extend, but most don't understand weight distribution, you need to progressively increase the load to your front tyre before it can handle such emergency stop. What happens to commoners when they want emergency brake? Well - in less then 0.5 seconds they just stomp on the brakes, and your ABS activated, which translate to even higher stopping distance(bad),. you don't want your ABS to activate in order to achieve maximal deceleration. Because of your technique, you've just disregarded your "grippier" tyre benefit as traction is proportionate to WEIGHT applied onto it, not surface area or wider tyre

The point is, performance oriented tyres for the streets are really of no substantial benefit to your everyday driver, unless you are someone who are used to semi-slicks tyres and knows and can feel instinctively your car's grip, most driver don't even come close to the limit of a basic well inflated, within operating temperature michelin primacy 4 grip.

For me, i use comfort oriented tyre for my daily/comfort/family car - because that car has <300hp and don't really have the hp/torque to break traction on every corner exit anyway.

Instead of choosing a tyre of safety, try driving safely instead of pushing into a corner on a rainy day thinking you got a PS4s and it's OK to do such things.

it might kill your tire faster.
if primacy is what you after... 80k km only change new set is not abnormal yea...

You free to play around 200~280kpa and i think you mean kpa? Cause normal tire has 300~350kpa max or 40psi max (cold air)

Yes, I'd been having 115 +-K km with several pairs of XM2 (185/70R14) over the past decade or so.

Note: With a residual tread depth of 2.0 -2.5 mm 'ish vs manufacturer recommendation of 1.6 mm tread depth for tyre replacement.
Current front and rear pairs of XM2 have done 50K  and 22K km respectively thus far - and is probably good to repeat history again.

Primacy can last about 80k, PS can last about 50k

Both under normal drive yea...

           

common sense a bit can or not?

I 'followed' tyre manufacturer recommendation on tread wear indicator mark of 1.6 mm depth and 10 year old rules on tyre replacement.

Socalled tyre rot, roughened, scratches, hairline cracks, tyre noise, tyre hardening etc etc fear mongering are not the criteria of replacing tyres.

Most importantly, wheel alignment (as and when necessary or once in 2-3 years).

my bad then, air pressure is good?

I was using altis back then air pressure at front 240kPA; rear 230/220kPA.  This air pressure thing, you need to feel with your butt on the best combination when coasting, over holes / bump.  In Altis 10th Gen, I feel it was the best combination.
Pen <--> KL once a month.... speed about 130+
Then changed to PS4 used for 30k then sold off the car due to MCO and not back to office until today.

Having another myvi with me on PS3, can use almost 60k still not touching the 1.6mm yet but changed for peace of mind.

+edit: Yes that was Primacy 3, then I changed to PS4 after Primacy almost touching the 1.6mm

Agree to what zeng mention.  It could be your alignment issue and your tyre pressure could be on lower side,
but again it is about the feeling - IMHO, the factory recommended air pressure is the minimum, and when coast, can you feel your car wanna slow down or maintain the speed is the key; if it wanna slow down then your air pressure is low.

Secondly, do you fetch a lot of weigh in your car such as boot full of equipment, always full load and etc?
Meantime can you describe how your tyre when it is fully used? It is eating a side (the side nearer to car body or facing outside) of the tyre or as a whole?

If as a whole, still most likely air pressure / high load, if a side then you have some other problems.