some of my friends also play 4G13, play until sien adi....underpowered, so end up transplanting to bigger cc engines in the end, satisfied

Get Powerzone extractor, Zenden for cheaper alternative

lee, on Mitsu 1 I am not sure, have to go dyno then only can know the result, plus tuning mitsu, adaler some secret...LOL

FYI, 3 gear auto GB rarely failed.....its like bulletproof
For the 4 gear autos, you can survive until now with manual like usage, you're very lucky like me Take good care of ur 4 gear auto GBs, use tranny oil cooler if lengthened the 'life' of it

Powerzone u can get from them at their place located in Glenmarie. As for Zenden, try zth....forgot the seller's name already. If can't get Zenden, you can get HotBits also.....basically the same as Zenden but more expensive ler

This post has been edited by shinjite: Aug 19 2007, 04:30 PM

Powerzone is the most expensive...Zenden the cheapest, HotBits in the middle

If u can afford go Powerzone, if budget get Zenden. HotBits is ur last alternative

HotBits extractor = Zenden
If you can get Zenden, why get HotBits?

Oh the RM50 is not the gold edition 1.....

engine power u can't feel a diff at all.....if got also minimal but u still can't feel it
Most noticable would be the lights brighter, sound quality better and etc

if your timing belt haven't change, better go and change for reassurance

kazami13, its normal to have that eek eek sound......
There is nothing wrong with your belt, sound mostly comes from the alternator belt there

Have u change ur abs?
If not, then your abs is soft already
When u corner, the left side of the fender scrape your front tyre

But if its not, then it can be your driveshaft/brake jam when steering vibrate, balancing out also can cause ur steering vibrate. Rim cones also can cause it....but don't so teruk until driveshaft ler, better change....

This post has been edited by shinjite: Aug 26 2007, 03:01 PM

if brake jam, u can check by removing ur front tyre then take a long screw driver and try turning it by placing it horizontally against the lugs and turn it. If it turns normally like it should then no jam, if its hard to turn, then its jammed.

My experience when my right brake jam is that it vibrates my steering wildly....thats about it
And it starts vibrating when it reaches 60km/h and above

This post has been edited by shinjite: Aug 26 2007, 10:02 PM

The fuel mapping everything different....better go for a 1.8 ECU

if lift slowly, still can...but if sudden....high chances it will sei for
Thats from my experience

heck even my cousin's saga has autocruise >.>"

I know I know what his engine is

U mean fog light right?

Since he is not into cars, use back OEM shocks, gas type preferable

perform good as oil type in cornering?
Well its higher stiffness is there for a reason