How do you cut the grooves ? You use pen knive/model knife and just slice a line on the part ? Wont be straight wat... especially if its a rounded surface... need some info.

Hand brushing can give u very good results too... in the case of chris's figures... ( and mine sumtimes )
And its totally cheaper than airbrushing... and healthier for certain situations. But u need a tonne more skills to handbrush a figure....


I usually brush only 1 layer with lacquers.... And my thinner : paint ratio is like 2 : 3 .... so its alredi thick enuf. ( dun forget retarders... about 20% of the total solution ) UNLESS if i screw up... then i will strip the paint, and repaint. I rarely go 2 layers.

I dont paint with acrylics so i dont know. XD From wat ive heard its multiple layers, cuz its thin.

Yea well... its kinda like a personal opinion that handbrushing is very difficult compared to airbrushing... im sure many will agree with me.



Yea well... wat i meant to say was after u add water it becomes very very thin, ( forgot to mention) and therefore u need to paint in layers to actually cover a part fully... forgive my inaccuracy.


Lol it would be cool if u could mod a zaku into a chaos space marine.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Feb 9 2008, 12:55 PM

Everything translates to $$$ ... if u dont spend $$$, you can never get it easy.

I heard the guy over at Game Mate ( prangin mall, penang ) sells modded compressors that are silent and can turn on 24/7 ? Any idea guys ? And i heard its very cheap too... like RM 400 i think.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Feb 9 2008, 06:32 PM

Yea well u gotta consider whether it really LASTS or not.... even though he say got warranty, he mod himself doesnt that translate to void warranty ?

Hey guys... anyone here uses Anchor brand spray cans before ? Will it dissolve plastic ?

I cant find nippon pylox spray cans in my area... so i wanted to try Anchor brand. Anyone use before on plastic ?

Just a question... how do u guys cut and shape your plaplates ? I had the sudden crazy urge to mod my MK-II ...

Those thick 2mm pla plates are hard to cut with hobby knife.. so how do u guys go about it ?

http://winterheim.wordpress.com/2007/02/20...20-aeug-colors/

If you would kindly take a look at the link above, you would notice the shoulder armor of the MK-II is modded. How do i cut an armor piece so that it will have wide " sink in " grooves like the one above ? ( the gray painted part of the shoulder armor )

The shield has some insane panel lines too.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Feb 14 2008, 12:03 AM

I've tried anchor's flat black on my first grade strike... no melted plastic, quite hard to scratch off, but after spraying the surface looks a little rough close-up... paint particles not small enough ? I shook the can for like 1 minute before spraying, btw....

And 1 more thing, Mr retarder can be used with acrylic paints too right ?

This post has been edited by noob4life: Feb 18 2008, 12:46 AM

Guys i have this can of Tamiya spray i got from Hobbies' Corner.... Tamiya 3D Scenic Color Mini... Dark Grey ( TD-4 ) ... when i spray on paper, it looks like lumps of dust.... or "frosty" .... not the usual even surface u get from a spray can. The spray expire d izzit ? Any idea why ?

Lol ive tested everything you guys mentioned... its still like that... all frosty and "dust" like... I think i test until its gonna finish d... zzzzz. Such a small bottle... 30.5 ml only, RM 29.90 wtf. This is the first time ive had such a problem. ( the spray can is brand new btw )


Help me lol.

Guys can you kindly look at the link below :

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/zero1st_/006.jpg


Its been posted before on this forum but i still cant clarify my question... The one thats being used in the pic is Gunze's Weathering Marker Set rite ? Not the real touch rite ?

If i use real touch will the effect still be the same ?

Thnx for the reply Shin and VincC ...

Most of the time when i sand down a nip mark and didnt paint over it... it kinda looks like weathering/shading to me... If u dont look at it so closely it looks not bad also .... but of course u dun go and use those low-grade sand paper la... get those around 1200 to 2000. ( the higher the value, the finer the sand paper, and thus less visible scratch marks )


When u sand the edges of a blue color part.. it kinda look like shading. =X ... but thats just me... dunno bout u guys.

Just my two cents ~

Heres a picture that explains it all.

Ive seen people put an object in between the plastic nozzle and the can... so that u can have a constant flow of air without worrying about pressing the nozzle too hard/too soft .... like the example below : ( the 3 pictures on the bottom left part )




Hope this helps.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 11 2008, 11:37 AM

Thats a japanese coin... its got a hole in between em.... but dunno if u can get one here.

Oops vince replied first...

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 11 2008, 11:46 AM

Actually u dun need any of those... gundam kits are snap fit. You dont need any form of glue....

This being the reason is that you can remove the pieces later if u want to paint the kit... if u glue it then u cant remove it liao... difficult to paint...

But u can use putty or supah glue to cover seam lines... AFTER you paint the kit then only you should consider gluing the kit or not...

Heres another picture.... this time they use Mr. Cement Deluxe.... no putty also. Once sanded down d look nice leh, dont have that "puttied" look... Good for those who dont paint. And its way easier than using putty. No need to wait for curing time.

I might try this today... tell u guys results later.





@Vince

Well he did say " to put pieces together " ... I assumed putting parts together lol.

My bad.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 11 2008, 11:59 AM

Lol zheyuen... you should go XL-shop's online shop ... www.xl-shop.com .... they sell both Mr. Cement and Mr. Cement Limonene type ... go see the labels/price etc as a reference... so u will know if the one u say at the bootleg shop is bootleg or not. =P

Personally i prefer Mr Cement deluxe to cover seam lines... the limonene type very thin... must put quite alot the only the seam line is covered... up to you though. Go try try.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 12 2008, 11:30 PM

Is it viable to use Gunze's Thinner to thin paints, then use industrial thinner to wash the airbrush ? More cost effective. Just asking... i wanna get an airbrush soon.

Oh yea one more thing... you guys use gas mask or u guys spray outdoors ? Ima thinking of buying a mask... cuz i cant stand the fumes even with hand painting...

Its easier to classify paints by their cap... i assume u guys are using Gunze Sangyo's line of paints ...
Please note that the names are all based on the LABELS on the product... not on the description written in XL Shop !!!!!


Mr. Color ( lacquer based ) paint = Mohawk-shaped cap

1. Thinner that can be used :

Mr. Color Thinner 110 ml/250 ml/400 ml
Mr. Color Leveling Thinner 110 ml/400 ml




Hobby Color ( water based ) paint = FLAT shaped cap

1. Thinner that can be used :

Hobby Color Thinner 110 ml/400 ml



See the difference in the names ? hope this clears up some confusion.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 14 2008, 09:09 PM

I think those surfacers... white and gray .... its for different tones of color rite ? Like if i apply white paint over gray primer, the white will look darker mah ? So it all depends on toning ? just asking.