disclaimer : i dont benefit financially over the products that i recommend. i'm sharing with you because it really works.
why new car feels new ?? because all the parts inside is still not clogged up. you can make your 5year old car feel new again, 10year car bigger difference !!!! i've got a few cars that is near to 100,000km, other near to 200,000km. i've got rid of sluggishness, even better fuel economy, better response, car feels like NEW again.
i've been looking for options beside overhauling what can be done by DIY and done it on all of my 3 cars (no need go workshop and can be done cheaply. slightly more than RM 100 only) typically mechanics will ask us to overhaul everything. (or minimum overhaul top of your engine)
you can refer this video for the steps. listen to the before and after engine sound @ 8:40 onwards. this is full treatment (ignore Lucas oil part)
this video is engine treatment only. still need to do intake valve. compression test higher, engine internally is cleaner. although cant beat whole engine overhaul, this is just a fraction of what a complete overhaul will cost. plus you can do this every year once your car feel sluggish again
to explain the how our engine works. we have plenty of valves, moving parts, clean air recirculating, exhaust air recirculating, oil injections in our engine. it's very complex and you dont have to know it all.
all you got to know is that dirty things clogs up your car like cholesterol clogs up your heart, your arteri, veins and others. this is to clear all the carbon and whatever shit which clogs up your engine and related systems
below these are the pictures of engine internally. maybe around 30,000km it start to build up (yeap, this is how internally your car looks like)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
EGR valve, recirculates incomplete fuel burn to burn again. this is how it looks like after 50,000km or
intake valves
throttle body
Economics & other benefits.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
1. a fraction of what you paid for at workshop asking the mechanics to fix these might set you maybe about RM 1,200 (walnut blasting valve, EGR cleaning, combustion chamber cleaning, fuel injector cleaning, yes their job might be cleaner, better, but heck you can do this every 30,000km without breaking your wallet !!!!
2. better fuel economy. better throttle response. your car will feel lighter, your car will push when you pedal it lightly, and this will make up for the fuel economy because you no longer have to step kawkaw for the car to overtake or to overcome sluggishness
3. AVOID KANA PARANG1 there are many many sensors internally in your engine. they get dirty, then you get the "Check engine light" and your wallet will burn a hole because you will ended up changing a lot of things which are related. you confirm KANA PARANG when that light turns on. later mechanics ask you do engine overhaul, seal leaking, plus a lot of nonsense.
4. AVOID KANA PARANG2 throttle body dirty will cause your car to jerk, or die when AC kick in. so you think is alternator problem, later battery problem, spark plugs problem plus other problems. KANA PARANG again.
5. a lot of services outside cant cover everything lets say HHO decarbonization does the same for effect for intake, valve and EGR cleaning. But it cant clean the gunk inside your engine, cant clean fuel line. there are multiple systems that need servicing. so thats why going to the mechanic will cause thousands if want to cover so many things.
so how do you do the treatment ??
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refer to this picture. Items can get from AceHardware. RM 50+ per can.
1. Seafoam engine treatment (white cap liquid) (can be replaced with GumOut if you could find them) 2. Seafoam spray (black cap spray)
What it does ?? Cleans 1. fuel injector 2. valve 3. EGR valve 4. throttle body 5. loosen up all the gunk in your engine 6. cleans sensors
so how to use it ??
Seafoam engine treatment. 1. wait until your last petrol fill up before changing engine oil. drive until your petrol almost empty. POUR HALF into your fuel tank. this will help to clean fuel injectors. 2. balance half pour into engine oil service hole.
Seafoam Intake spray 1. drive your car until the day you want to bring it for service. 2. remove your hose connecting to throttle body (which your intake connects to), then put in the thin tube, warm up engine and maintain at 2500rpm, spray in few bursts until whole can is finished. 3. then turn off engine let it soak for 15minutes. 4. go rev the shit out of your car, you'll see lots of white smokes * might get check engine light on because air sensor detects some error. but it's normal and the error you can ask your mechanic to turn it off during service.
then drive to mechanic there and ask them to change engine oil TWICE if you havent done it for long time. why twice ?? because the first new engine oil will turn into coca cola colour after 15minutes, so need to change oil twice then put in new ones.
seafoam spray tutorial
you can refer this video for the steps. listen to the before and after engine sound. this is full treatment
this video is engine treatment only. still need to do intake valve
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 11:38 PM
car jerking at low RPM, AC turned on and kill engine during idle
throttle body is the control centre for the air intake, when u press on pedal throttle body will open its mouth if the jerk is coming when it's low RPM (idling), so the throttle body is not functioning well as it could not maintain smooth airflow. either throttle body or the MAF sensor (mass airflow sensor, detect volume of air going into intake) there going crazy. (sensor can get dirty as well, or fail)
When turn on AC, the drag simply pulls the engine and kills it. nothing to do with AC, it's the throttle body cant maintain its function.
better to service it and see got difference or not. some mechanics might ask you to ended up changing throttle body, MAF sensor, but the problem is just that it's dirty.
watch this if your engine is jerking when idling.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 18 2018, 10:06 PM
go AceHardware buy it. im not selling it but i've done it on all my cars d
Really? Ace Hardware? Could not find in Lazada/Shopee/Lelong. How much per set? Are you using all three bottles?
There's one to put in fuel tank. One to put where the enging oil goes. I'm not quite sure about the last one, you spray it into the air intake as the engine is running? I'm not sure where to spray in Iswara.
Really? Ace Hardware? Could not find in Lazada/Shopee/Lelong. How much per set? Are you using all three bottles?
There's one to put in fuel tank. One to put where the enging oil goes. I'm not quite sure about the last one, you spray it into the air intake as the engine is running? I'm not sure where to spray in Iswara.
yes AceHardware sells RM 50+ per bottle. lazada is double.
first liquid bottle put half in fuel tank, must wait until whole tank almost empty 2nd half put in engine oil there.
2nd spray bottle spray at intake manifold there (go watch the youtube vid), but must warm up engine and increase rev, if not engine mati. spray d, rev kawkaw let everything out
then go drain everything out of your car, change new oil twice if u havent done it before. new 15min oil will look like 4month old oil (kopi) thats how dirty it is, carbon all out
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 14 2018, 05:10 PM
Last year I bought it from Ace HW it was almost RM60 per bottle. I bought 2 bottles, only used one, another one still unopened. I'm not sure if it actually helped, but the smoke accidentally showed a leak in my exhaust so yeah, it led me to fix that. Haha
Last year I bought it from Ace HW it was almost RM60 per bottle. I bought 2 bottles, only used one, another one still unopened. I'm not sure if it actually helped, but the smoke accidentally showed a leak in my exhaust so yeah, it led me to fix that. Haha
engine treatment also must add because it helped to flush injector, cleans engine. imagine the engine run 130,000km without doing flush. the gunk inside engine block is like sticky like mud. (peep inside the engine oil hole and saw the mud on the valves, yuckkkk !!)
i've added engine treatment to my gf car (pour in liquid) and after 2-3days can feel throttle response is so much better. press pedal and the car immediately pull forward. before adding, the power kick in like 1.5second later after step the pedal, and need to press down a lot for the gearbox to shift. dont dare to overtake cuz the power lags
waiting for this tank of petrol to run finish then will do the intake treatment next.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 14 2018, 10:39 PM
Yeah, last time saw Chris Fix channel comparison of few product on the combustion chamber cleaning, this product beats Techron and few others for the combustion chamber cleaning power...
Yeah, last time saw Chris Fix channel comparison of few product on the combustion chamber cleaning, this product beats Techron and few others for the combustion chamber cleaning power...
i asked some mechanics they dont even know got such product in the market. or they pretend dunno ?? anway i told my mech that i used intake sprays, he told me after add in all the products eats into the petrol cost. but seriously after adding no regrets cuz the car runs so much better.
QUOTE(eddievh @ Nov 14 2018, 10:54 PM)
Eric the car guy said use plain water also can.
if engine not hot enough, water can damage it, better use back petroleum based. anything it burns out through exhaust.
dis mostly works in DI engines, for FI engines the fuel itself will clean the carbons in valves, intake etc, so for FI engines do italian tuneup is enuf ledi
dis mostly works in DI engines, for FI engines the fuel itself will clean the carbons in valves, intake etc, so for FI engines do italian tuneup is enuf ledi
all modern cars are DI. our car design recirculates the exhaust for better complete burning to reach better fuel economy, cleaner emissions (to comply to better emission standard).
problem is those re-circulation will clog up sensor, prevent smooth airflow, dirty intake valves plus others.
I'll read this up later but I have been watching alot of videos for the application of seafoam. Never thought it's available in Malaysia.
BTW, I did go to workshop and do the throttle body cleaning. I agree the car feels better after that.
if u do it with engine flush will be better.
i cant believe my gf car pedal response can improve with only the engine treatment only. but the engine should be in terrible shape cuz when i poured it into the engine oil cover, saw really nasty looking mud colour inside.
colour and texture is like this when i peep into the hole
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 09:46 AM
intake valves every 30,000km already covered with a lot of carbon. if your car feels crappy then just do it. especially if you press on pedal the power kicks in slower
if u take care ur car properly , 60k km actually no needed. mine 250k km cuci throttle body not that blackish as above.
it's not only throttle body, the engine internally is gunk up with sludge. i dont think even 10% of the population does engine flush. i dont do it since last time. and there are other things like EGR valve, intake valve that get clogged too.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 10:24 AM
it's not only throttle body, the engine internally is gunk up with sludge. i dont think even 10% of the population does engine flush. i dont do it since last time.
dis mostly works in DI engines, for FI engines the fuel itself will clean the carbons in valves, intake etc, so for FI engines do italian tuneup is enuf ledi
QUOTE(AllnGap @ Nov 15 2018, 07:30 AM)
all modern cars are DI. our car design recirculates the exhaust for better complete burning to reach better fuel economy, cleaner emissions (to comply to better emission standard).
problem is those re-circulation will clog up sensor, prevent smooth airflow, dirty intake valves plus others.
So Iswara and above are DI then?
QUOTE(AllnGap @ Nov 15 2018, 09:45 AM)
if u do it with engine flush will be better.
i cant believe my gf car pedal response can improve with only the engine treatment only. but the engine should be in terrible shape cuz when i poured it into the engine oil cover, saw really nasty looking mud colour inside.
colour and texture is like this when i peep into the hole
all modern cars are DI. our car design recirculates the exhaust for better complete burning to reach better fuel economy, cleaner emissions (to comply to better emission standard).
problem is those re-circulation will clog up sensor, prevent smooth airflow, dirty intake valves plus others.
not exactly, most cars sold in the market are still FI, n i get wat u mean, my car also facing the same problem cos its DI n its a pain in the ass to clean off the carbons, i have tried almost all the ways to remove the carbons but the best way is still to overhaul the engine, but of course its too expensive compared to other treatment methods, this seafoam method i seen before in utube, worth to try it
So Iswara and above are DI then? What's an engine flush?
Your engine put engine oil to keep it running. At first engine oil slippery and clean like cooking oil. After do service drain dirty oil, put in new oil.
But some oil eventually becomes sticky like grease n stuck inside. Engine flush is put in to remove those sludge in your engine casing.
After free up those greasy sludge, your engine will run smoother. Before service add in, then when service drain out everything
then go drain everything out of your car, change new oil twice if u havent done it before. new 15min oil will look like 4month old oil (kopi) thats how dirty it is, carbon all out
when you say change twice, you mean add seafoam to the existing engine oil, let it run a while, change to new engine oil, use it a few days, then change again? dont you need to remove some engine oil before adding seafoam?
when you say change twice, you mean add seafoam to the existing engine oil, let it run a while, change to new engine oil, use it a few days, then change again? dont you need to remove some engine oil before adding seafoam?
1. Old oil + seafoam. Run for a week.
2. Drain above. Add in new oil (add cheapo oil as his is sacrificial oil). Run for 20min. - I did mine, the fresh new oil turned into coffee in 20min run.
3. Drain above. Add in new final oil. This time only change your oil filter.
The seafoam just add like half bottle to engine. Balance half into peteol tank near empty. Fill up run that tank finish for like 1 week then go service.
No need to remove oil when add seafoam as until your service interval the oil also become lesser.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 07:35 PM
2. Drain above. Add in new oil (add cheapo oil as his is sacrificial oil). Run for 20min. - I did mine, the fresh new oil turned into coffee in 20min run.
3. Drain above. Add in new final oil.
Don't need remove some oil before add seafoam to compensate?
not exactly, most cars sold in the market are still FI, n i get wat u mean, my car also facing the same problem cos its DI n its a pain in the ass to clean off the carbons, i have tried almost all the ways to remove the carbons but the best way is still to overhaul the engine, but of course its too expensive compared to other treatment methods, this seafoam method i seen before in utube, worth to try it
There are way too many systems to clean actually.
This method is the most direct and effective..... It works as detergent, just apply to all 3 inlets fuel, air and engine oil.
Valves get dirty every 30,000km onwards. Roughly translates to a year of usage.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 08:00 PM
Your engine put engine oil to keep it running. At first engine oil slippery and clean like cooking oil. After do service drain dirty oil, put in new oil.
But some oil eventually becomes sticky like grease n stuck inside. Engine flush is put in to remove those sludge in your engine casing.
After free up those greasy sludge, your engine will run smoother. Before service add in, then when service drain out everything
I saw tyt sc selling this leh.... that day forget to fluch when do 200k km major service aiyo
2. Drain above. Add in new oil (add cheapo oil as his is sacrificial oil). Run for 20min. - I did mine, the fresh new oil turned into coffee in 20min run.Â
3. Drain above. Add in new final oil. This time only change your oil filter.
The seafoam just add like half bottle to engine. Balance half into peteol tank near empty. Fill up run that tank finish for like 1 week then go service.
No need to remove oil when add seafoam as until your service interval the oil also become lesser.
I have summarised the steps. Please check if these steps are correct.
1. Pour half of Seafoam (white cap) into almost empty fuel tank of car. 2. Pour the remaining half of Seafoam (white cap) into engine oil hole. 3. Go pump petrol until full tank and drive the car for a week. 4. After a week, remove intake hose (connecting to throttle body). 5. Start the car and warm-up engine by maintaining at 2500rpm for a few minutes. 6. Attached the small plastic tube onto the Seafoam Spray (black cap) and spray into the throttle hole while the car engine is still running until the whole can is empty. 7. Turn off the car engine and let it soak for 15min. 8. Start the car and rev it until all the white smokes becomes clearer. *Might get Check Engine Light on because air sensor detects some error. This is normal and can ask mechanic to turn it off during servicing. 9. Drive to workshop and ask them to drain the engine oil. 10. Pour in new engine oil (can use cheap engine oil). 11. Start car and let it idle for 20 min. 12. Turn off car engine and drain the engine oil. The engine oil should be very dark. 13. Pour in new engine oil (our preferred engine oil). Change new oil filter.
This post has been edited by lil_flank: Nov 15 2018, 10:44 PM
TLDR: Seafoam treatment on an older car caused multiple issues.
Folks, I think it's important to share my own experience with seafoam treatment of an older car I did from way back in 2002, for the benefit of anyone who might be considering it. YMMV.
It was a 5-year old (then) 4 cylinder Nissan, slightly above average mileage. The treatment was successful, as in it achieved what was promised. But it also caused subsequent issues. Apparently, the stuff worked so well at dissolving and dislodging grime and deposits, that it also removed the stuff that was keeping gaskets and o-rings working. Once removed, the gaps were revealed and it cause major issues, from EGR, head gasket to piston o-rings. Imagine what happens when you pull out the nail that's been stuck to your tire and had been plugging the hole.
This does not mean it will necessarily cause problems for you, as it's delivered positive results to many and there are those who swear by it. But if you were to give this a shot, at least now you know the risk you might be taking.
TLDR: Seafoam treatment on an older car caused multiple issues.
Folks, I think it's important to share my own experience with seafoam treatment of an older car I did from way back in 2002, for the benefit of anyone who might be considering it. YMMV.
It was a 5-year old (then) 4 cylinder Nissan, slightly above average mileage. The treatment was successful, as in it achieved what was promised. But it also caused subsequent issues. Apparently, the stuff worked so well at dissolving and dislodging grime and deposits, that it also removed the stuff that was keeping gaskets and o-rings working. Once removed, the gaps were revealed and it cause major issues, from EGR, head gasket to piston o-rings. Imagine what happens when you pull out the nail that's been stuck to your tire and had been plugging the hole.
This does not mean it will necessarily cause problems for you, as it's delivered positive results to many and there are those who swear by it. But if you were to give this a shot, at least now you know the risk you might be taking.
All the best.
if this happens, the whole car is already on the verge of scraping d. whole engine already falling apart, just depends what thing triggers it
I have summarised the steps. Please check if these steps are correct.
1. Pour half of Seafoam (white cap) into almost empty fuel tank of car. 2. Pour the remaining half of Seafoam (white cap) into engine oil hole. 3. Go pump petrol until full tank and drive the car for a week. 4. After a week, remove intake hose (connecting to throttle body). 5. Start the car and warm-up engine by maintaining at 2500rpm for a few minutes. 6. Attached the small plastic tube onto the Seafoam Spray (black cap) and spray into the throttle hole while the car engine is still running until the whole can is empty. 8. Start the car and rev it until all the white smokes becomes clearer. *Might get Check Engine Light on because air sensor detects some error. This is normal and can ask mechanic to turn it off during servicing. 9. Drive to workshop and ask them to drain the engine oil. 10. Pour in new engine oil (can use cheap engine oil). 11. Start car and let it idle for 20 min. 12. Turn off car engine and drain the engine oil. The engine oil should be very dark. 13. Pour in new engine oil (our preferred engine oil). Change new oil filter.
6. Attached the small plastic tube onto the Seafoam Spray (black cap) and spray into the throttle hole while the car engine is still running until the whole can is empty.
- must do this step carefully if you dont want check engine light to turn on, connect the small tube like in the video, try to connect back the rubber hose that connect to the throttle body. then start spraying. if the rubber hose is not connected properly, the engine light warning will come on because the MAF sensor right before intake cant detect any air and will cause engine to choke.
you can choose to spray direct into throttle body just that will trigger engine light warning.
6. Attached the small plastic tube onto the Seafoam Spray (black cap) and spray into the throttle hole while the car engine is still running until the whole can is empty.
- must do this step carefully if you dont want check engine light to turn on, connect the small tube like in the video, try to connect back the rubber hose that connect to the throttle body. then start spraying. if the rubber hose is not connected properly, the engine light warning will come on because the MAF sensor right before intake cant detect any air and will cause engine to choke.
you can choose to spray direct into throttle body just that will trigger engine light warning.
Thanks for the info. So its best to cover back the rubber hose while leaving a small gap for the small tube to spray into the throttle hole. This method can reduce the chamce of getting check engine light on. Am i correct?
- must do this step carefully if you dont want check engine light to turn on, connect the small tube like in the video, try to connect back the rubber hose that connect to the throttle body. then start spraying. if the rubber hose is not connected properly, the engine light warning will come on because the MAF sensor right before intake cant detect any air and will cause engine to choke.
i dont get this part, which video and on what time?
Thanks for the info. So its best to cover back the rubber hose while leaving a small gap for the small tube to spray into the throttle hole. This method can reduce the chamce of getting check engine light on. Am i correct?
Yep, slide in small tube from spray can into throttle body, then cover back the rubber tube, just cover slightly make sure no air leaks can d.
Thanks for the info. So its best to cover back the rubber hose while leaving a small gap for the small tube to spray into the throttle hole. This method can reduce the chamce of getting check engine light on. Am i correct?
QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Nov 15 2018, 11:19 PM)
i dont get this part, which video and on what time?
The issue with this engine cleanser is, it's can effect the sealing that had been protected by carbon deposit. Tried used this seaform before in my old Iswara. Few KM later whole engine caput.
The issue with this engine cleanser is, it's can effect the sealing that had been protected by carbon deposit. Tried used this seaform before in my old Iswara. Few KM later whole engine caput.
your iswara is how old ? 25years old ?? oil leak out from where ?
Joined: Nov 2007
From: A Place Where God And Master Of TroubleMaker Exist
QUOTE(AllnGap @ Nov 14 2018, 10:31 PM)
engine treatment also must add because it helped to flush injector, cleans engine. imagine the engine run 130,000km without doing flush. the gunk inside engine block is like sticky like mud. (peep inside the engine oil hole and saw the mud on the valves, yuckkkk !!)
i've added engine treatment to my gf car (pour in liquid) and after 2-3days can feel throttle response is so much better. press pedal and the car immediately pull forward. before adding, the power kick in like 1.5second later after step the pedal, and need to press down a lot for the gearbox to shift. dont dare to overtake cuz the power lags
waiting for this tank of petrol to run finish then will do the intake treatment next.
on time or early oil change could avoid all this gunk. although it will still have but is very minimal.
there is once top engine cover seal leak...mech open up the cover to replace the rubber seal, the top part is as clean as it should be no gunk of anything. So i guess consistent oil change help prevent gunk build up. no overdue.
Joined: Nov 2007
From: A Place Where God And Master Of TroubleMaker Exist
QUOTE(romalis51 @ Nov 16 2018, 02:57 PM)
The issue with this engine cleanser is, it's can effect the sealing that had been protected by carbon deposit. Tried used this seaform before in my old Iswara. Few KM later whole engine caput.
things to worry when using this kind of product to clean the engine
This post has been edited by herojack41: Nov 17 2018, 01:27 PM
on time or early oil change could avoid all this gunk. although it will still have but is very minimal.
there is once top engine cover seal leak...mech open up the cover to replace the rubber seal, the top part is as clean as it should be no gunk of anything. So i guess consistent oil change help prevent gunk build up. no overdue.
I think the type of oil also determine got sludge. Semi synthetic oil will build up sludge faster.
if this happens, the whole car is already on the verge of scraping d. whole engine already falling apart, just depends what thing triggers it
Nope. Experienced mechanics will give you advice & solutions you based on what is visible and not from what is invisible. Visible means leaks. Invisible means nothing worn can be seen now, but is seen later caused by maintenance products such as Seafoam.
2. Drain above. Add in new oil (add cheapo oil as his is sacrificial oil). Run for 20min. - I did mine, the fresh new oil turned into coffee in 20min run.
3. Drain above. Add in new final oil. This time only change your oil filter.
The seafoam just add like half bottle to engine. Balance half into peteol tank near empty. Fill up run that tank finish for like 1 week then go service.
No need to remove oil when add seafoam as until your service interval the oil also become lesser.
I get the part where you need to drain, fill, drain and fill again the engine oil. What I don't get is, why with seafoam can drive for one week (I know for giving time to clean, this part I get it) but once you remove it, and refill with cheapo oil, why only run 20 mins so short, instead of running maybe 1 day to clear things out.
I get the part where you need to drain, fill, drain and fill again the engine oil. What I don't get is, why with seafoam can drive for one week (I know for giving time to clean, this part I get it) but once you remove it, and refill with cheapo oil, why only run 20 mins so short, instead of running maybe 1 day to clear things out.
Erm, thing is it's still using the old oil filter, I don't know what's the effect of after flush still using an old oil filter with new oil.
When I did my flush my car just left there for idle for 15min, no revving at all. Sacrificial oil came out tea colour.
I guess running a day wouldn't hurt
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 18 2018, 06:29 PM
Nope. Experienced mechanics will give you advice & solutions you based on what is visible and not from what is invisible. Visible means leaks. Invisible means nothing worn can be seen now, but is seen later caused by maintenance products such as Seafoam.
They'll ask ppl not to go ahead with engine flush because might cause leaks. besides the flush, the intake cleaner also they dont do unless ppl requested them to clean throttle body. for car jerking at idling, usually ppl will replace a whole lot of things like spark plugs and other things like (most mech buat bodo to earn more money). just service can solve problem but ended up changing 3-5 parts.
one day when things fail, they just tell you to overhaul everything. like one of my friend's car the water temperature keeps on going high. cant solve it. mechanic ask him to overhaul
Everything has a lifespan i'd rather make my car feel new. if gasket really fail, then one shot change the whole engine gasket.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 18 2018, 10:17 PM
They'll ask ppl not to go ahead with engine flush because might cause leaks. besides the flush, the intake cleaner also they dont do unless ppl requested them to clean throttle body. for car jerking at idling, usually ppl will replace a whole lot of things like spark plugs and other things like (most mech buat bodo to earn more money). just service can solve problem but ended up changing 3-5 parts.
one day when things fail, they just tell you to overhaul everything. like one of my friend's car the water temperature keeps on going high. cant solve it. mechanic ask him to overhaul
Everything has a lifespan i'd rather make my car feel new. if gasket really fail, then one shot change the whole engine gasket.
Thats the thing. 99% people buys cars and expects the cars to live forever. Why do you think newer cars has lesser and lesser self serviceable parts in it? Some newer cars does not even have a dip stick or even oil filler cap. Everything is passed on to electronic sensors. Also lifetime engine oils. (This exists in USA, but i do not know if any other countries has them yet).
In the end the consumer wants maintenance free cars. Car makers made this their advantage in making the cars buy, use and throw away. Much like Apple products.
To be fair, if your car is only 5-7 years old and you did seafoam or any other type of decarbonizing, cleaning, flushing. That would be fine. Thats the max rate the vehicle life would be at at normal day to day use. But some are being abused. Those are the ones that cause problems.
In fact if a modern engine burns oil (Any engine that uses 0 to 30 grade oil now), you can't go 40 grade or higher like you could with older engines. It would kill the engine cam switching and adjustment features due to the incorrect oil pressure flow needed to make those work.
Whatever the case, everyone should change engine oil at schedule and at least every year, pump a tankful of the the most premium fuel they can buy and do an Italian tune up.
This post has been edited by netmatrix: Nov 18 2018, 10:43 PM
Thats the thing. 99% people buys cars and expects the cars to live forever. Why do you think newer cars has lesser and lesser self serviceable parts in it? Some newer cars does not even have a dip stick or even oil filler cap. Everything is passed on to electronic sensors. Also lifetime engine oils. (This exists in USA, but i do not know if any other countries has them yet).
In the end the consumer wants maintenance free cars. Car makers made this their advantage in making the cars buy, use and throw away. Much like Apple products.
To be fair, if your car is only 5-7 years old and you did seafoam or any other type of decarbonizing, cleaning, flushing. That would be fine. Thats the max rate the vehicle life would be at at normal day to day use. But some are being abused. Those are the ones that cause problems.
In fact if a modern engine burns oil (Any engine that uses 0 to 30 grade oil now), you can't go 40 grade or higher like you could with older engines. It would kill the engine cam switching and adjustment features due to the incorrect oil pressure flow needed to make those work.
Whatever the case, everyone should change engine oil at schedule and at least every year, pump a tankful of the the most premium fuel they can buy and do an Italian tune up.
those complain leakages after flushing should be those ppl who never had gaskets changed before. gasket if can last 8years already strike lottery.
i'm from mechatronics background so i can pick up car knowledge fast, the conclusion i get is that the normal ppl here is they dont know nuts. - try to outrun the service intervals, pushing their luck (hey i did it too) - most of the money get chopped by mechanics (including me, gf car compressor failed (should be 500-600), ended up charging rm2,000 including the inner coil, MCB shop boycott him d) - blindly follow/believe manufacturer marketing, blur blur (DSG gearbox, start-stop BS)
so now, i read whatever i could, at least i could troubleshoot and estimate the problem beforehand.
dont think revving can burn the carbon at throttle body btw.
Noted on filter. But isn't the oil with seafoam more dirty? So it baffled me, why that one for 1 week but sacrificial oil so scary just 15 mins. Haha.
BTW, just a discussion.
130,000km oil with Seafoam engine treatment and Seafoam spray this one no sacrificial oil. put in new Shell full synthetic oil the car now press a bit of oil can move smoothly, previously running at 100kmh engine sound was super rough. now not so rough
my other car with 80,000km mileage. (just run flush for 20min)
consulted my friend (the one with 200,000km on it) what thing he use to service the car cuz his one tank can go 700km. mine only 550km.
so conclusion is a lot of things (my engine should be super dirty with oil deposits, so the whole car is not responsive, and not so fuel efficient) this service interval i switched to Liqui Moly full synthetic + engine flush + additive (to reduce friction)
this is what i did with it, first spray Seafoam valve cleaner into intake and rev everything to clear valve. then drive to workshop to ask them do engine flushing.
OLD engine oil (7000km) after adding flush and running it for 10minutes. like KOPI-O
then because i watched some videos that do flushing on cars that never done it before (run 100,000km never flush) they had to flush - drain - add new cheapo oil to run 2nd round (run 10-15min) then drain. THEN only add in LIQUI MOLY. Basically DRAIN THE OIL TWICE if not the new oil added will be instantly dirty !!
this is the sacrificial cheapo 4L engine oil (new engine oil just run for 10min) that i added in after draining the oil. pour new oil in immediately turn dark, dirty like teh O.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 19 2018, 04:59 PM
130,000km oil with Seafoam engine treatment and Seafoam spray this one no sacrificial oil. put in new Shell full synthetic oil the car now press a bit of oil can move smoothly, previously running at 100kmh engine sound was super rough. now not so rough -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
my other car with 80,000km mileage. (just run flush for 20min)
consulted my friend (the one with 200,000km on it) what thing he use to service the car cuz his one tank can go 700km. mine only 550km.
so conclusion is a lot of things (my engine should be super dirty with oil deposits, so the whole car is not responsive, and not so fuel efficient) this service interval i switched to Liqui Moly full synthetic + engine flush + additive (to reduce friction)
this is what i did with it, first spray Seafoam valve cleaner into intake and rev everything to clear valve. then drive to workshop to ask them do engine flushing.
OLD engine oil (7000km) after adding flush and running it for 10minutes. like KOPI-O then because i watched some videos that do flushing on cars that never done it before (run 100,000km never flush) they had to flush - drain - add new cheapo oil to run 2nd round (run 10-15min) then drain. THEN only add in LIQUI MOLY. Basically DRAIN THE OIL TWICE if not the new oil added will be instantly dirty !!
this is the sacrificial cheapo 4L engine oil (new engine oil just run for 10min) that i added in after draining the oil. pour new oil in immediately turn dark, dirty like teh O.
LOL. Thanks Bro. How much the workshop charge you when you do twice? And how much for once?
Just wondering. Im thinking to do this for my now 110K km car on Jan. But first have to get to ace hardware first.
BTW come to think of it i think I did engine flush once. I think last year the workshop guy was asking me on about engine flush and the bottle cost about RM20. What he did is poor it in to the old engine oil. Run car for 10 mins and remove the oil. That's it.
Anyway. I memang plan to use seafoam.
This post has been edited by cempedaklife: Nov 19 2018, 05:08 PM
LOL. Thanks Bro. How much the workshop charge you when you do twice? And how much for once?
Just wondering. Im thinking to do this for my now 110K km car on Jan. But first have to get to ace hardware first.
i brought my own oil la. they charge rm 50 for labour to change twice.
one way of testing before/after is when u press pedal a little bit.
try feel how your car respond before adding anything. the pull will only come in lagging behind or press down pedal a lot only can pull. but after treatment the pull will be instant
I didn't use seafoam spray, but threebond engine conditioner. Same concept, spray through the throttle body, heatsoak it and wait 15 minutes and then start the engine.
Picture of my head intake side
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
That is the result but, this was taken after 15k KM after the treatment. I guess the engine itself could been clean to start with or my driving style is rather agressive. (Lots of short burst accleration and high rev)
Just doing the seafoam spray or similar treatment. I definetly felt a difference for cars that are high mileage (5 years or 100k KM and above) Mine saga blm (135k KM when done), I felt FC a bit better. Rest felt the same, could be it that my engine was at it optimum to start with. My friend neo (160k KM, when done), roughness at idle felt smoother but somehow the exhaust was a bit more alive. Lastly, my friend myvi (130k KM, when done), sharper respond and better idling quality.
I would like to just do the seafoam in the engine and see how well does it contribute. But it seem costly to do it; seafoam, engine oil for flushing, 2x proton oil filter and engine oil that i usually use which is molygen 5w-40.
I didn't use seafoam spray, but threebond engine conditioner. Same concept, spray through the throttle body, heatsoak it and wait 15 minutes and then start the engine.
Picture of my head intake side
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
That is the result but, this was taken after 15k KM after the treatment. I guess the engine itself could been clean to start with or my driving style is rather agressive. (Lots of short burst accleration and high rev)
Just doing the seafoam spray or similar treatment. I definetly felt a difference for cars that are high mileage (5 years or 100k KM and above) Mine saga blm (135k KM when done), I felt FC a bit better. Rest felt the same, could be it that my engine was at it optimum to start with. My friend neo (160k KM, when done), roughness at idle felt smoother but somehow the exhaust was a bit more alive. Lastly, my friend myvi (130k KM, when done), sharper respond and better idling quality.
I would like to just do the seafoam in the engine and see how well does it contribute. But it seem costly to do it; seafoam, engine oil for flushing, 2x proton oil filter and engine oil that i usually use which is molygen 5w-40.
wow your valve is spanking brand new. i guess those high mileage that never did any flushing or throttle body cleaning will feel the difference the most.
regarding the sacrificial oil, it's just something extra if your car havent flush before for 100,000km. a lot of ppl will just flush and thats it, but thats the fact your new oil gonna look like "tea" in 20minutes because there are too much shit inside there that cant be clean with one round of oil change.
the intake spray will make the throttle response better (car felt like hesitant to pull before), while the flush will make the engine spin with less resistance, therefore car will coast further, car feels lighter.
if those cars use semi-syn oil, probably build up sludge even faster due to viscosity.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 19 2018, 09:28 PM
wow your valve is spanking brand new. i guess those high mileage that never did any flushing or throttle body cleaning will feel the difference the most.
regarding the sacrificial oil, it's just something extra if your car havent flush before for 100,000km. a lot of ppl will just flush and thats it, but thats the fact your new oil gonna look like "tea" in 20minutes because there are too much shit inside there that cant be clean with one round of oil change. the intake spray will make the throttle response better (car felt like hesitant to pull before), while the flush will make the engine spin with less resistance, therefore car will coast further, car feels lighter.
if those cars use semi-syn oil, probably build up sludge even faster due to viscosity.
like brand new. haha. remember is 155k KM and 15k KM after "decarbon"
for me the only that worries me, is seafoam adding to engine oil. it can be added in petrol tank, before oil change and after oil change, and decarbonize valve and piston. is a bit intriguting how one oil/additive/treament can do so much. have you tried putting it after oil change?
like brand new. haha. remember is 155k KM and 15k KM after "decarbon"
for me the only that worries me, is seafoam adding to engine oil. it can be added in petrol tank, before oil change and after oil change, and decarbonize valve and piston. is a bit intriguting how one oil/additive/treament can do so much. have you tried putting it after oil change?
one is liquid and the other one is spray
liquid is added to engine service hole and add into fuel tanks help to clean injectors too.
havent tried put in after oil change. but after i added into the car, already can feel the difference and after a week the pull is not that strong, dunno is change different petrol factor or not. so best is to change oil in a few days after adding because it will dislodge a lot of sludge in the engine that needs to be drained.
if u watch that farm guy video, he said seafoam did not make the engine oil thin. and yes he did drain 2nd time and the oil was black as well.
personally, to gain back the power of your car engine just like new again, just take your car for long distance drive and rev it to redline for prolong of time.
This action will perform the "decarbonise" in the engine part, and reset the ECU of the behaviour driving as well. Then your engine will be clean and as powerful as new again.
Really? Ace Hardware? Could not find in Lazada/Shopee/Lelong. How much per set? Are you using all three bottles?
There's one to put in fuel tank. One to put where the enging oil goes. I'm not quite sure about the last one, you spray it into the air intake as the engine is running? I'm not sure where to spray in Iswara.
I did surveys at Queensbay Mall Penang. I'm surprised many of the car stuff in ACE are cheaper than AEON. Unfortunately, I cannot find clay bar there. Indeed.
I went there too, but couldnt find the seafoam fuel injector cleaner that need to pour in petrol tank. Only hv the spray, to clean throttle valve
I don't know about you guys but I will only put potentially harmful chemicals into my engine if I'm having problems and I have nothing to lose. If your car is running well don't court trouble for nothing just because of anecdotal accounts on the internet. Don't believe everything you read online. I'm not saying it doesn't work but if your car don't really need this why take the risk?
whats the diff btw this and techron and hitech synthetic cleaner
and ron 97 ron 100
all say clean clean clean
and a few ques to TS
1) how often many k km need to start do? (for you)
2) the cheap engine oil u use to flush kopi O - fully synthetic or semi enough (since just to flush)
3) fuel economy better...so if I do this regularly per say 50k km, I dont need to pump ron 97 d? since economically this is much better than consistent ron 97 (also to clean engine)
4) If I dont wanna get my hands dirty, I do the first few steps (pour in engine oil hole and petrol tank) and let shop do the rest , which shop can do it?
This post has been edited by Jedi: Dec 20 2018, 11:50 PM
whats the diff btw this and techron and hitech synthetic cleaner
and ron 97 ron 100
all say clean clean clean
and a few ques to TS
1) how often many k km need to start do? (for you)
2) the cheap engine oil u use to flush kopi O - fully synthetic or semi enough (since just to flush)
3) fuel economy better...so if I do this regularly per say 50k km, I dont need to pump ron 97 d? since economically this is much better than consistent ron 97 (also to clean engine)
4) If I dont wanna get my hands dirty, I do the first few steps (pour in engine oil hole and petrol tank) and let shop do the rest , which shop can do it?
I think why not any outside workshop won't do? At least for thd engine oil part. Petrol tank don't need do anything. What they need to do is just replace engine oil without replace filter. Let it run 10 mins, then replace engine oil and filter again. The problem is, you need to make sure to ask the price first. It could be 2x your normal engine oil change. Or it could be slightly less.
I don't know about you guys but I will only put potentially harmful chemicals into my engine if I'm having problems and I have nothing to lose. If your car is running well don't court trouble for nothing just because of anecdotal accounts on the internet. Don't believe everything you read online. I'm not saying it doesn't work but if your car don't really need this why take the risk?
worst case scenario is that it could cause leaks if gasket has not been change periodically. the chemicals are all petroleum based
but a lot of ppl already kena parang from this unstable idling problem, which can cause strings of wrongly misdiagnosed problems. mechanics might propose to change AC, change spark plugs, belt, belt tensioner, overhaul engine top, change sensor, change lots of stuff.
another factor is bad FC and bad throttle response. the car become crappy that you wanna change it.
Work for most port fuel injector but won't work for direct injection , engine oil sometimes really depend driving habit , 120km 8 year old local car i service in time whichever come first
, i flush power steering fluid , coolant and brakes fluid every year , I only flush my atf fluid d3 every 40k replace filter every 80k , since fluid there are boiling point know the limitations then can last a bit long rather than waste time and money change atf fluid every 20k d3
Engine oil is like no matter how good you use is like once you fried a fish entire oil is black , I mean if u use fully synthetic not always travel far I rather you buy semi drain every 3k lagi better right .....
Using all this cleaning agent are nothing bad or good if your car in good condition In engine part unless you are type not bother when problem come only complain then give it a try if engine running fine when service remember let your engine hot enough only drain the oil
But personal I not prefer suction haha
This post has been edited by zuozi: Dec 26 2018, 02:10 PM
whats the diff btw this and techron and hitech synthetic cleaner
and ron 97 ron 100
all say clean clean clean
and a few ques to TS
1) how often many k km need to start do? (for you)
2) the cheap engine oil u use to flush kopi O - fully synthetic or semi enough (since just to flush)
3) fuel economy better...so if I do this regularly per say 50k km, I dont need to pump ron 97 d? since economically this is much better than consistent ron 97 (also to clean engine)
4) If I dont wanna get my hands dirty, I do the first few steps (pour in engine oil hole and petrol tank) and let shop do the rest , which shop can do it?
1. i think around 40,000km to 50,000km (about 1.5years to 2years time) do once, your car will feel like brand new
2. semi syn also ok, it's just to flush out whatever dirty things remaining inside engine
3. fuel economy here meaning after lets say 4-5years your FC will never be the same as the day you bought the car. because engines inside will have lots of sticky things like carbon, oil residue built up. then valves that circulates air passage gets clogged, sensors are dirty (cars have computers inside that controls air and fuel mixtures to burn efficiently, if the reading is out, then maybe more petrol is consumed, coupled with bad throttle response, you'll most likely press down pedal kawkaw because the power delivery lags and the gear shift is slower. like you press all the way down instead of half because the car isnt functioning efficiently). newer fuel like BHP they added a bit of cleaning agents in fuel. maybe get better cleaning effect down the fuel line and intake valve, but still everything will get dirty irregardless. when your throttle response is good, you wont press pedal that hard, then you'll save fuel
4. normal shops dont do it. even for engine flush, workshop is hesitant to do it because might cause engine gasket to leak. only official service centre that forces you to periodically change gasket will do it. cuz if it leaks they get blamed. that's for engine flush. (subang jaya performance shop got help ppl do liquid moly engine flush)
for the spray they dont like to do it as well. hardly cuz our local mechanics are old fashioned type.
what i've seen those specilized workshop do is clean part by part (but not spray and rev it out) which will cost about RM 900+ 1. clean throttle body 2. open top do chemical cleaning on pistons 3. intake valve walnut blast 4. take out whole EGR valve to clean
imagine u buy a bottle RM55 can do cleaning almost the same way comparing to the mech taking out everything and bill you RM 900+ for it.
i cant imagine doing this at workshop, car spitting white smoke from exhaust, later customers thought the mechanic wreck customers car
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Dec 26 2018, 02:33 PM
Work for most port fuel injector but won't work for direct injection , engine oil sometimes really depend driving habit , 120km 8 year old local car i service in time whichever come first
, i flush power steering fluid , coolant and brakes fluid every year , I only flush my atf fluid d3 every 40k replace filter every 80k , since fluid there are boiling point know the limitations then can last a bit long rather than waste time and money change atf fluid every 20k d3
Engine oil is like no matter how good you use is like once you fried a fish entire oil is black , I mean if u use fully synthetic not always travel far I rather you buy semi drain every 3k lagi better right .....
Using all this cleaning agent are nothing bad or good if your car in good condition In engine part unless you are type not bother when problem come only complain then give it a try if engine running fine when service remember let your engine hot enough only drain the oil
But personal I not prefer suction haha
i suggest you go find how intake valves, throttle body, EGR valve looks like after 100,000km.
a person cant possibly run efficiently if he hadnt pick his nose or brushes his teeth for 8years straight
Work for most port fuel injector but won't work for direct injection , engine oil sometimes really depend driving habit , 120km 8 year old local car i service in time whichever come first
, i flush power steering fluid , coolant and brakes fluid every year , I only flush my atf fluid d3 every 40k replace filter every 80k , since fluid there are boiling point know the limitations then can last a bit long rather than waste time and money change atf fluid every 20k d3
Engine oil is like no matter how good you use is like once you fried a fish entire oil is black , I mean if u use fully synthetic not always travel far I rather you buy semi drain every 3k lagi better right .....
Using all this cleaning agent are nothing bad or good if your car in good condition In engine part unless you are type not bother when problem come only complain then give it a try if engine running fine when service remember let your engine hot enough only drain the oil
But personal I not prefer suction haha
just a reference picture, the seafoam cant clean till this extent. basically this is what it looks like
just a reference picture, the seafoam cant clean till this extent. basically this is what it looks like
Since you already show the picture and obviously you already can tell how many work has to be done lmao
This is why I'm saying not working for gasoline direct injection since the injection are straight to chamber and is not typical people can do it when needed remove so many things haha
Any fuel cleaning additives add into fuel tank only work for port injector
Which mean the fuel spray into intake vavle clean the intake vavle and all the unburned things will burn at combustion chamber
Malaysia I don't see yet maybe have or I don't know but there are other way to clean direct injection by blasting similar wood Ash more hassle
This is why there are newly technology multi port injector when running eco using port when performance needed direct injection
This post has been edited by zuozi: Dec 26 2018, 04:43 PM
Since you already show the picture and obviously you already can tell how many work has to be done lmao
This is why I'm saying not working for gasoline direct injection since the injection are straight to chamber and is not typical people can do it when needed remove so many things haha
Any fuel cleaning additives add into fuel tank only work for port injector
Which mean the fuel spray into intake vavle clean the intake vavle and all the unburned things will burn at combustion chamber
Malaysia I don't see yet maybe have or I don't know but there are other way to clean direct injection by blasting similar wood Ash more hassle
This is why there are newly technology multi port injector when running eco using port when performance needed direct injection
the liquid added to fuel line won't be able to clean intake valve that much in GDI system but that's is where the spray will do it's magic.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Dec 26 2018, 10:35 PM
the liquid added to fuel line won't be able to clean intake valve that much in GDI system but that's is where the spray will do it's magic.
if you know what you doing like to DIY ok lah when come to typical people which really hard for them , sent to foreman i guess rm30 labor charge no one want to do it , rm100? 150? 200? meh i don't know is this service include intake manifold gasket ? or just a silicone sealant etc , some intake manifold with water passage if typical people no idea what they doing block the water way GG then ....
if typical people no idea what they doing better sent to foreman , my logic no matter sea foam blah other liquid chemical agent when cleaning intake valve still need a proper experience like have to close the valve only you start cleaning which have to turn the crank pulley until the valve closed 1234 or 1432 no way allowed the big whole chunk just drop inside combustion chamber
still need air gun blow the remaining or clean up out of the intake valve any remaining cleaning agent residue etc , a lot good product out there still need proper way to proceed like the picture you show not a easy task
Seafoam for engine and tank works, for intake use Amsoil powerfoam, Effect It’s most noticeable on older cars or cars that’s have neglected fuel RON rating and turbo cars leaking oil into manifold or NA cars leaking oil from breather or PCV valve. Good for yearly maintenance for throttle response and fuel consumption n smoothness fixing. Alternative take ur manifold and injectors apart and clean by hand 😂😂😂 😅😅😅😅
Since you already show the picture and obviously you already can tell how many work has to be done lmao
This is why I'm saying not working for gasoline direct injection since the injection are straight to chamber and is not typical people can do it when needed remove so many things haha
Any fuel cleaning additives add into fuel tank only work for port injector
Which mean the fuel spray into intake vavle clean the intake vavle and all the unburned things will burn at combustion chamber
Malaysia I don't see yet maybe have or I don't know but there are other way to clean direct injection by blasting similar wood Ash more hassle
This is why there are newly technology multi port injector when running eco using port when performance needed direct injection
DI need too do wallnut blasting or dissamble all clean by hand. Wall nut blast cheaper... n mechanic provide this service
the most practical way is to go above 140kmh or more on the highway when you go outstation. The longer you hold on to this speed the more carbon built-ups will be burned.
the most practical way is to go above 140kmh or more on the highway when you go outstation. The longer you hold on to this speed the more carbon built-ups will be burned.
not only carbon, but also it cleans the injectors too. it has got 2 product, one is clean intake, carbons, throttle body the second liquid is poured into crankcase and fuel tank. both cleans different parts
the liquid after pouring can immediately feel it, which i think my injectors are a bit dirty, now press a bit the car can move d. so i'd recommend to use both.
actually liqui moly also have same range of stuff, one for air intake, one for crankcase, the other for fuel tank. so it's already known that those 3 places need some chemicals to go in and clean them. revving alone cant clean fuel track and injectors system
So anyway..where can get Seafoam? I don't think I saw it at Ace Hardware when I went there a month ago.
The liquid can be used to clean fuel line together with clean intake. I saw some ppl apply intake via hose after mass airflow sensor. So one can of seafoam can cover most of things.
Ace there sold out d I think. Hunt for it at 3 outlets only found one can. I'll keep a few bottles next time when they're on sale
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Apr 29 2019, 03:47 PM
all modern cars are DI. our car design recirculates the exhaust for better complete burning to reach better fuel economy, cleaner emissions (to comply to better emission standard).
problem is those re-circulation will clog up sensor, prevent smooth airflow, dirty intake valves plus others.
if an old car (14 years) going through this method and might cause gasket and valve leakages, would it be wise to do it at the workshop and ask the guy to change gasket at the same time?
if an old car (14 years) going through this method and might cause gasket and valve leakages, would it be wise to do it at the workshop and ask the guy to change gasket at the same time?
Better change cuz it's 14years old.
Or since it's leaking just do seafoam before sending over to mech
Or since it's leaking just do seafoam before sending over to mech
no leaking found yet, and I haven't start doing this treatment yet, i just found this thread this morning and still reading. Should I just do the oil change, run for awhile and see, if found leaking then only change the gasket?
Just to share...the other product with similar outcome is ThreeBond. There is no best, both Seaform and ThreeBond works pretty much the same. Individual preference.
no leaking found yet, and I haven't start doing this treatment yet, i just found this thread this morning and still reading. Should I just do the oil change, run for awhile and see, if found leaking then only change the gasket?
Use liquid and spray. Then go service.
If no leaking then just continue driving. Just your car is very old, I'm afraid after removing gunk from engine might leak.
The one pour into engine is kinda like a engine flush
I always find this argument. Old engine. Don't do cleaning don't use engine oil with strong detergent.
So if using that logic. Does it mean all These while it's better to clean and maintain the engine so that when it's older, no problem cleaning it?
car is made of metal, rubber (gasket/suspension/arm joints) and plastics everything have it's lifespan because steel rusts, rubbers harden and crack, plastics crack. in term of leak, it's the gasket or the material which is usually rubber/plastic material has already exceeded it designed lifespan. lets say you drive that car for 15years. gasket already fail around 10 but havent leak yet.
There are many ppl that never do engine flush (like my dad's car), so those engine oil form grease like gunk which hardens and sometimes it formed a coat. When the above happens, usually the car will feel kinda crap, cuz the sludge will cause engine to have higher friction, sometimes it might clog your oil pump or even cause your engine to overheat because engine oil function is not only to lubricate but to be splashed around so that it cools engine as well. When u try to overtake the power doesnt come, like hesitating, so you tend to floor the pedal to make the car pull, thus worse FC
so normal people dont see the loss of fuel efficiency, loss of performance as a problem. they just know new cars FEELS BETTER but they dont know why their old car FEELS OLD.
'bocor' problem When they do engine flush, the engine start to leak, they get to see the 'bocor' problem. By right, changing gasket is part of the preventive maintenance, but since no bocor we use until it bocor usually when bocor, mech open up find more worn faulty parts, (bills pile up) so ppl are very afraid of BOCOR.
But i find there are 2 types of people around. one is dont care can get me from point A to point B. the others are the more power hungry ppl like me. high performance car workshop all do engine treatment everytime they service, while normal workshop dont do it because they fear later customer car leak oil and get blamed for it. cuz the customer always think that no bocor = no problem. (basically one is willing to spend to make perform 100%, the other simply DGAF can jalan okay d)
on the leaky gasket, i found another product that can rejuvenate the seals inside, can be used on engine, gearbox, transmission oil.
so this is how your engine looks like without engine flush.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: May 22 2019, 11:43 AM
car is made of metal, rubber (gasket/suspension/arm joints) and plastics everything have it's lifespan because steel rusts, rubbers harden and crack, plastics crack. in term of leak, it's the gasket or the material which is usually rubber/plastic material has already exceeded it designed lifespan. lets say you drive that car for 15years. gasket already fail around 10 but havent leak yet.
There are many ppl that never do engine flush (like my dad's car), so those engine oil form grease like gunk which hardens and sometimes it formed a coat. When the above happens, usually the car will feel kinda crap, cuz the sludge will cause engine to have higher friction, sometimes it might clog your oil pump or even cause your engine to overheat because engine oil function is not only to lubricate but to be splashed around so that it cools engine as well. When u try to overtake the power doesnt come, like hesitating, so you tend to floor the pedal to make the car pull, thus worse FC so normal people dont see the loss of fuel efficiency, loss of performance as a problem. they just know new cars FEELS BETTER but they dont know why their old car FEELS OLD. 'bocor' problem When they do engine flush, the engine start to leak, they get to see the 'bocor' problem. By right, changing gasket is part of the preventive maintenance, but since no bocor we use until it bocor usually when bocor, mech open up find more worn faulty parts, (bills pile up) so ppl are very afraid of BOCOR.
But i find there are 2 types of people around. one is dont care can get me from point A to point B. the others are the more power hungry ppl like me. high performance car workshop all do engine treatment everytime they service, while normal workshop dont do it because they fear later customer car leak oil and get blamed for it. cuz the customer always think that no bocor = no problem. (basically one is willing to spend to make perform 100%, the other simply DGAF can jalan okay d) on the leaky gasket, i found another product that can rejuvenate the seals inside, can be used on engine, gearbox, transmission oil. so this is how your engine looks like without engine flush.
So my question is this. Is it better to do this even before the car is old. Or it won't impact aka might as well just do it when your car is old. Bocor then Bocor la since its memang sudah over lifespan.
So my question is this. Is it better to do this even before the car is old. Or it won't impact aka might as well just do it when your car is old. Bocor then Bocor la since its memang sudah over lifespan.
If you prefer car to perform well then do it like every year once. U will feel your car lighter, easier to overtake
Bocor no bocor really depends on luck.
I do this treatment everytime my throttle response feel crap. Like car can't pull instantly when pedal on it. Or when I need to floor the pedal to make the car pull
So my question is this. Is it better to do this even before the car is old. Or it won't impact aka might as well just do it when your car is old. Bocor then Bocor la since its memang sudah over lifespan.
If you prefer car to perform well then do it like every year once. U will feel your car lighter, easier to overtake
Bocor no bocor really depends on luck.
I do this treatment everytime my throttle response feel crap. Like car can't pull instantly when pedal on it. Or when I need to floor the pedal to make the car pull
If you prefer car to perform well then do it like every year once. U will feel your car lighter, easier to overtake
Bocor no bocor really depends on luck.
I do this treatment everytime my throttle response feel crap. Like car can't pull instantly when pedal on it. Or when I need to floor the pedal to make the car pull
Seafoam works good.... never top/bottom haul anything 200km plus on my spare car. The car pickup feels like when I got it new. FC now 30% better too.... amazing n really works. Engine oil change every 5k. Anyway my 140 bucks well spent. Yeah I had to use 2 bottles due fuel tank size 😎
car is made of metal, rubber (gasket/suspension/arm joints) and plastics everything have it's lifespan because steel rusts, rubbers harden and crack, plastics crack. in term of leak, it's the gasket or the material which is usually rubber/plastic material has already exceeded it designed lifespan. lets say you drive that car for 15years. gasket already fail around 10 but havent leak yet.
There are many ppl that never do engine flush (like my dad's car), so those engine oil form grease like gunk which hardens and sometimes it formed a coat. When the above happens, usually the car will feel kinda crap, cuz the sludge will cause engine to have higher friction, sometimes it might clog your oil pump or even cause your engine to overheat because engine oil function is not only to lubricate but to be splashed around so that it cools engine as well. When u try to overtake the power doesnt come, like hesitating, so you tend to floor the pedal to make the car pull, thus worse FC so normal people dont see the loss of fuel efficiency, loss of performance as a problem. they just know new cars FEELS BETTER but they dont know why their old car FEELS OLD. 'bocor' problem When they do engine flush, the engine start to leak, they get to see the 'bocor' problem. By right, changing gasket is part of the preventive maintenance, but since no bocor we use until it bocor  usually when bocor, mech open up find more worn faulty parts, (bills pile up) so ppl are very afraid of BOCOR.
But i find there are 2 types of people around. one is dont care can get me from point A to point B. the others are the more power hungry ppl like me. high performance car workshop all do engine treatment everytime they service, while normal workshop dont do it because they fear later customer car leak oil and get blamed for it. cuz the customer always think that no bocor = no problem. (basically one is willing to spend to make perform 100%, the other simply DGAF can jalan okay d) on the leaky gasket, i found another product that can rejuvenate the seals inside, can be used on engine, gearbox, transmission oil. so this is how your engine looks like without engine flush.
What rejuvenates the seals ?
I was so impressed with the seafoam, I tried HKS DDR and DSR but I don’t feel much difference in the performance ? 😂 Mileage is low tho, maybe that’s y but the engine oils I can feel the response with the performance ones... But a old high mileage car the sea foam is no brainer...
This post has been edited by Fenix98: May 22 2019, 10:45 PM
Seafoam works good.... never top/bottom haul anything 200km plus on my spare car. The car pickup feels like when I got it new. FC now 30% better too.... amazing n really works. Engine oil change every 5k. Anyway my 140 bucks well spent. Yeah I had to use 2 bottles due fuel tank size 😎
ya, the new car feel is addictive. when my car throttle response is bad, i tend to floor it cuz mine has been remap. causing me to lose 10% of my tank FC.
so i'd rather spend it on seafoam and can overtake without hesitation.
u dint use the spray type ? spray is needed to clean the top intake part
I was so impressed with the seafoam, I tried HKS DDR and DSR but I don’t feel much difference in the performance ? 😂 Mileage is low tho, maybe that’s y but the engine oils I can feel the response with the performance ones... But a old high mileage car the sea foam is no brainer...
check this out. it's a plasticizer that can rejuvenate rubber and seals.
ya, the new car feel is addictive. when my car throttle response is bad, i tend to floor it cuz mine has been remap. causing me to lose 10% of my tank FC.
so i'd rather spend it on seafoam and can overtake without hesitation.
u dint use the spray type ? spray is needed to clean the top intake part
I used seafoam for crankcase and fuel tank,
Amsoil powerfoam to clean out throttle plate and intake plenum, and I use contact cleaner to clean out the MAP sensor.
I netted 30% increase mileage.... over the years the mileage got worse and worse....
Amsoil powerfoam to clean out throttle plate and intake plenum, and I use contact cleaner to clean out the MAP sensor.
I netted 30% increase mileage.... over the years the mileage got worse and worse....
QUOTE(cempedaklife @ May 22 2019, 11:06 AM)
I always find this argument. Old engine. Don't do cleaning don't use engine oil with strong detergent.
So if using that logic. Does it mean all These while it's better to clean and maintain the engine so that when it's older, no problem cleaning it?
bro, u see Fenix98 did record better FC and new car feeling.
Actually lots of ppl just continue to drive because they dont see losing performance and FC as a problem. And they got fed up with the bad FC and so weak cant overtake so dump that car and buy new one.
I have a question. Is it ok to run seafoam for tgdi engines?
Usually the method is to run it via the throttle body. However my cars throttle body is located well below the intake makes it unreachable. If i were to run it via the intake thru the turbocharger, will it cause harm?
I have a question. Is it ok to run seafoam for tgdi engines?
Usually the method is to run it via the throttle body. However my cars throttle body is located well below the intake makes it unreachable. If i were to run it via the intake thru the turbocharger, will it cause harm?
Went thru youtube cant seem to find any vids
whatever engine also can.
you may spray the mist into intake also, dont have to directly spray into throttle body. but avoid spray on MAF sensor can d (at the intake there)
I use water only lol. Drive at high rpm for a while until engine hot, then stop. Stuck the throttle pedal with floor mat to keep it rev until 2500rpm. Open hood, cabut brake booster and then spray water inside brake booster hose.. Then you can feel with your hand the exhaust churning out water mist. I use around 300 to 500ml of water. If you scare then maybe 100ml is enough. . Then, after that, drive the car around within 4000rpm to redline. At first you car feel like want to stall. So put lower gear to high rev. My car already clock 193k km and its a GDI engine. Never done overhaul yet. Cheaper than seafom lol.
Can google engine water decarbo. Just dont spray the water until your engine die. Keep it rev high that its strong enough to transform the water from liquid to vapor.. If not it can cause hydrolock.
BMW M4 also got this water injection kit stock from factory. But its for performance purpose la.
This post has been edited by Ikmal404: Jul 3 2019, 08:05 PM
I use water only lol. Drive at high rpm for a while until engine hot, then stop. Stuck the pedal with floor mat to rev it until 2500rpm. Open hood, cabut brake booster and then spray water inside brake booster. Then you can feel with your hand the exhaust churning out water mist. Use around 500ml of water. Then, after that, drive the car around within 4000rpm to redline. At first you car feel like want to stall. So put lower gear to high rev. Then done. My car already clock 193k km and its a GDI engine. Never done overhaul yet. Cheaper than seafom lol.
Bro, water is a bit dangerous as it could cause piston to warp.
your water clean carbon method same like ikmal one?
elaborate for us please, wish to know your execution method
* i dont suggest you do it if you got no idea what you're doing * Make sure your engine is really really hot, like when you open bonnet, you can hear radiator fan blow at full speed that kind of hot. go drive like mad for 20min that type spray fine water mist into intake. spray too much can cause hydrolock. so you must be a pro at it ya. I dont like water cuz if any fuck-up your engine gonna suffer la.
seafoam is hydrocarbon based, just like petrol. comes to worst cause engine to stall and die only.
however water treatment can only do on intake. seafoam can clean fuel line and flush sludge build up (pour into fuel tank and crank case) consider seafoam as all-in-one kind of treatment
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Jul 3 2019, 08:29 PM
Not deep creep weh. It's the engine treatment, wording in red one. If you pour deep creep you need a new engine
Haha yeah of course not because the deep creep name sounds damn dangerous to begin with
Btw, just want to confirm, the white cap (motor treatment), pour 1/2 into the petrol tank and the other into the engine as in the same place where the mechanics pour the engine in right????
Haha yeah of course not because the deep creep name sounds damn dangerous to begin withÂ
Btw, just want to confirm, the white cap (motor treatment), pour 1/2 into the petrol tank and the other into the engine as in the same place where the mechanics pour the engine in right????
Yes, then get spray and spray into intake.
Then whole car go do service flush all engine oil all out. Best is within 1-2 days after you pour into fuel tank. Make sure fuel tank almost empty then pour in and run it before refuel.
Basically whatever inside engine, injectors, fuel line, intake, exhaust all clean at once.
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Jul 3 2019, 10:20 PM
Then whole car go do service flush all engine oil all out. Best is within 1-2 days after you pour into fuel tank. Make sure fuel tank almost empty then pour in and run it before refuel.
Basically whatever inside engine, injectors, fuel line, intake, exhaust all clean at once.
OK got it! Thank you for sharing really appreciate it
Is it suitable for my car if it currently already has some engine oil leaking issue? my engine has ran >400k km without any overhaul yet (camry 2008) and another car 250k mileage with slight engine oil leaking too. worried that clearing the gunk out will cause the engine leak to be even worse
Is it suitable for my car if it currently already has some engine oil leaking issue? my engine has ran >400k km without any overhaul yet (camry 2008) and another car 250k mileage with slight engine oil leaking too. worried that clearing the gunk out will cause the engine leak to be even worse
Check where is the source of leak. If top then no problem. Better send your car to change the seals. Confirm will worsen the leak cuz your mileage is super high
Check where is the source of leak. If top then no problem. Better send your car to change the seals. Confirm will worsen the leak cuz your mileage is super high
When I park my car it usually drips some oil on the ground. Not sure which part is leaking though. What if I just add into the fuel tank instead of the engine? Will it be any more effective than not adding?
When I park my car it usually drips some oil on the ground. Not sure which part is leaking though. What if I just add into the fuel tank instead of the engine? Will it be any more effective than not adding?
Adding fuel tank only cleans fuel line and valves It's like cleaning 1/3 only
Is it suitable for my car if it currently already has some engine oil leaking issue? my engine has ran >400k km without any overhaul yet (camry 2008) and another car 250k mileage with slight engine oil leaking too. worried that clearing the gunk out will cause the engine leak to be even worse
Don't do it. Go check for the source of leak. If it is losing engine oil slowly, I live with it and top up. If it is losing every very often, better go check. Doing this cleaner will only worsen the leak as it cleans the dirt and carbon that seals those old seals. Are u using conventional or synthetic oil and what is the service interval?
Don't do it. Go check for the source of leak. If it is losing engine oil slowly, I live with it and top up. If it is losing every very often, better go check. Doing this cleaner will only worsen the leak as it cleans the dirt and carbon that seals those old seals. Are u using conventional or synthetic oil and what is the service interval?
Been using Fully synthetic all the way, 8-10k service interval
Been using Fully synthetic all the way, 8-10k service interval
Yup I stick with 8000km/6months with fully synthetic. Another scenario I see sometimes is people with high mileage been using conventional the whole time and switch to synthetic and the engine starts burning oil.
This post has been edited by SilentForever: Jul 14 2019, 11:22 PM
Yup I stick with 8000km/6months with fully synthetic. Another scenario I see sometimes is people with high mileage been using conventional the whole time and switch to synthetic and the engine starts burning oil.
Do you have any suggestion how to reduce the burn oil issue? I need to topup the engine oil quite frequently as it leaks and burns EO. I do perak-johor trips every 1 or 2 weeks
Do you have any suggestion how to reduce the burn oil issue? I need to topup the engine oil quite frequently as it leaks and burns EO. I do perak-johor trips every 1 or 2 weeks
whats the cause of burn oil or is it engine oil leak ?? burn oil is worn piston ring
Do you have any suggestion how to reduce the burn oil issue? I need to topup the engine oil quite frequently as it leaks and burns EO. I do perak-johor trips every 1 or 2 weeks
Do you see any external traces of engine oil such as below the car or around the engine bay?
Do you have any suggestion how to reduce the burn oil issue? I need to topup the engine oil quite frequently as it leaks and burns EO. I do perak-johor trips every 1 or 2 weeks
Switching to mineral oil can reduce leaks as it is thicker than synthetic oil. But the only real solution is to overhaul your engine to replace the piston rings and gaskets. If not worth doing just keep topping up.
Do you have any suggestion how to reduce the burn oil issue? I need to topup the engine oil quite frequently as it leaks and burns EO. I do perak-johor trips every 1 or 2 weeks
Yup gonna do the spray this Friday and then bring the car for a service at the same time So far, with just the fuel treatment alone right now I do feel there's a slight improvement.
change exhaust pipe ah ?? i explain in simpler terms.
there are many pipes which carry oil, carry exhaust, carry air in the car after sometime, it will be covered by dirty things. so these chemicals go in and burn those carbon.
exhaust pipe is just one of the systems, there about 5 different systems that gets dirty
Do you have any suggestion how to reduce the burn oil issue? I need to topup the engine oil quite frequently as it leaks and burns EO. I do perak-johor trips every 1 or 2 weeks
Try using high mileage formula oil like Shell High Mileage.
my understanding is that seafoam only works for older port injected cars. it wont work for new direct injection engines, those need to do valve cleaning using either chemicals or walnut blasting
port injection engines dont even need decarboning, just do italian tune up can dy
my understanding is that seafoam only works for older port injected cars. it wont work for new direct injection engines, those need to do valve cleaning using either chemicals or walnut blasting
Works for all as long as the chemical can touch and burn off the carbon or fuel residue.
Seafoam is applied at all places like intake, fuel line and engine crankcase......if just apply at fuel, of course for DI, the cleaning can't be done for the valve because fuel is not sprayed behind the valve.
recently i've sent my car install oil catch can, so opened the intake and it was very dirty. so ask my mech whack 3 bottles of intake valve cleaner. i dint take the after picture, but managed to clean the valve to a thin carbon coat, the whole chamber is clean but the valve not clean 100% because it's just chemical spray to dissolve the oil residue
this picture is how it looks like after i whack whole can of seafoam into it 2,000km ago. (car mileage near to 110,000km)
after cleaning with 3 cans of valve cleaner, the whole car when step oil will sound better (better, faster response), definitely pulls easier. of course walnut blast is the best method, but i just went for normal chemical cleaning.
seafoam does the job but not 100%. want 100% have to go walnut blasting
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Aug 23 2019, 02:24 PM
recently i've sent my car install oil catch can, so opened the intake and it was very dirty. so ask my mech whack 3 bottles of intake valve cleaner. i dint take the after picture, but managed to clean the valve to a thin carbon coat, the whole chamber is clean but the valve not clean 100% because it's just chemical spray to dissolve the oil residue this picture is how it looks like after i whack whole can of seafoam into it 2,000km ago. (car mileage near to 110,000km)
after cleaning with 3 cans of valve cleaner, the whole car when step oil will sound better (better, faster response), definitely pulls easier. of course walnut blast is the best method, but i just went for normal chemical cleaning.
seafoam does the job but not 100%. want 100% have to go walnut blasting
wahhh your car also oil catch can already
is it easy to install?
you buy aftermarket one or self diy a can?
ur mechanic also know how to adapt install for your car?
valve cleaner need to run engine at idle or not?
so result is 3 cans of valve cleaner clean better than one seafoam right?
ur mechanic also know how to adapt install for your car?
valve cleaner need to run engine at idle or not?
so result is 3 cans of valve cleaner clean better than one seafoam right?
Oil catch can depending on you car model. If PCV is on top then it's easy job. But mine need to remove whole intake manifold. After they remove I saw the carbon just ask them to spray and clean it.
If your car is GDI or direct injection, it's recommended to do at least do seafoam or if got budget, do walnut blast, then pour seafoam into fuel tank and engine casing. Then add in oil catch can.
Direct spray onto the valve is definitely much cleaner. (If spray via throttle body, the chemical need to travel one whole big loop before reaching intake valves.
Then the chemical sit there then suck all the chemicals out.
Looking at my picture I definitely think seafoam helps considering I just sprayed 2,000km ago which whole bottle. Yes the valves are still dirty but it's not caked up until air cannot flow pass it. The build up is just thick at the valve area. Whole chamber is dirty but not thick build up
This post has been edited by AllnGap: Aug 23 2019, 05:02 PM
all this while using 5w30, changed to 5w40 on jan, added seafoam when need to change oil, run for a week+, switched back to 5w30 now, feel back the smoothness, of course switching back to 5w30 have a play in this. but...i do feel like its smoother from my feel using 5w30 previously. so it could be seafoam is really working.
all this while using 5w30, changed to 5w40 on jan, added seafoam when need to change oil, run for a week+, switched back to 5w30 now, feel back the smoothness, of course switching back to 5w30 have a play in this. but...i do feel like its smoother from my feel using 5w30 previously. so it could be seafoam is really working.
does that mean you used seafoam just 1 time?
and 5w40 also try for one time from january till you mentioned now?
if so i feel it's too long apart, could be really cleaning but smoothness might just be new oil in engine
and 5w40 also try for one time from january till you mentioned now?
if so i feel it's too long apart, could be really cleaning but smoothness might just be new oil in engine
responsiveness and power wise?
yes, try 5w40 one time jan till now. yes use seafoam one time only.
so that's why i say, definitely feel smooth, definitely switch back to 5w30 got effect on this feel. and i just want to state i FEEL seems smoother than before i switch to 5w40, when still using 5w30.
i dont have any data, just feeling. and sharing what i FEEL. i didnt say seafoam definitely works i dont mind doing this every 2 years.
and i wont be switching back to 5w40, will stick to 5w30 from now on. i do have a bottle of 5w40 shell helix ultra left.
responsive, sure better, but most coz 5w40 back to 5w30 lor. cant say much about this and power. like you said, not gonna be very accurate coz of my scenario. i can only record my FEEL
and syukur no leaking after 1 week+ after change. its an 8 years old car.
yes, try 5w40 one time jan till now. yes use seafoam one time only.
so that's why i say, definitely feel smooth, definitely switch back to 5w30 got effect on this feel. and i just want to state i FEEL seems smoother than before i switch to 5w40, when still using 5w30.
i dont have any data, just feeling. and sharing what i FEEL. i didnt say seafoam definitely works i dont mind doing this every 2 years.
and i wont be switching back to 5w40, will stick to 5w30 from now on. i do have a bottle of 5w40 shell helix ultra left.
responsive, sure better, but most coz 5w40 back to 5w30 lor. cant say much about this and power. like you said, not gonna be very accurate coz of my scenario. i can only record my FEEL
and syukur no leaking after 1 week+ after change. its an 8 years old car.
extra bottle shell just sell la, since you prefer thinner one
i feel that seafoam need to be used more often, maybe in other application than filling in crankcase, since your oil change probably is yearly once, i wanna suggest twice a year, might be too frequent for you
i plan to switch to use seafoam on intake twice a year and in petrol tank once in 2 months
extra bottle shell just sell la, since you prefer thinner one
i feel that seafoam need to be used more often, maybe in other application than filling in crankcase, since your oil change probably is yearly once, i wanna suggest twice a year, might be too frequent for you
i plan to switch to use seafoam on intake twice a year and in petrol tank once in 2 months
Actually I memang change my engine oil twice yearly. Using fully synthetic. Not so strict la. Sometimes delay a bit cause busy. My idea is even if engine oil still clean and safe to xont use, just change since twice yearly is saving enough. That will also means my engine always run on clean oil. Rather than dirty only change.
Previously last year like that I already clean throttle body. So I didn't do seafoam spray. Maybe next year I will do it. But video show macam need 2 ppl ler. Which is inconvenient for me.
Your schedule on the application looks too frequent for me, but everyone have their own preference. Haha.
Memang nak sell the 5w40. Dunno how jek. Mqybe just post in lyn
I just wanted to add seafoam in my fuel tank. Can you explain how it works? What will it clean and how those deposits get cleaned out?
the complete way is the crankcase, fuel tank and intake there.
if you add it to fuel tank, it will just help to clean the injectors and follow the fuel to spray on the combustion chamber, cant really do a complete job.
at least you must spray intake there as your throttle body and intake valves get some cleaning
Nov 14 2018, 04:34 PM, updated 7y ago
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