What's the milage of ur car?

Thru 35 years of driving, I've never seen any absorber explode.. Lol
The absorber won't affect so much la..

And genting?
Going up, no power and going so slow..
Coming down, if u r speeding, then ur brakes will hangus and u end up taking the side of the mountain to come down with a crash..
U shud be coming down with ur gear on 2 and braking all the way down with speeds at the steepest at not more than 30kmh.

Tho it's good to be aware of situations, but don't over think it la..

U can remove ur absorbers from ur car and still make it up and down genting..
It's just very bouncy and u adapt ur driving style to adjust lor..

I did some google about absorber and they do advice to change. Maybe you can confirm yourself first whether there is leaking or not. How to inspect I don't know.

YS Khong YouTube do mention not to hold on brake too long downhill,  use lower gear and reduce braking time by heavier braking , do it safely though,  sudden brake can cause loss grip too, the idea is to let brake cool down thru wind at speed. Or more cooling time and less heating.

i think should have, try ask those perofrmance garage and see. but then, if you really wanna do it right, it involves a tonnes of other ancillary works like retune the suspension, strengthen relevant parts and assemblies etc, i mean if you looking at over all. Of course you can just upgrade to a stronger brake system alone though, the car should able to last until you sell it (unless you plan to drive it for 20 years) 

If city drive and short distance,  like 1 hour 2 hour,  I think about kancil wira myvi still running good.

If long distance drive 10years perhaps,  else easily break down on road. Like high temperature, oil leak,  engine failure etc.

Based on observance of car on road.

quick answer is, whenever you feel like letting it go. hard to tell as different people have different perception on when they should let go their cars.

there you go for common layman believing about start stop kills the battery faster. M42 battery is sepcially designed for idle stop application, hence this is why bezza advance uses M42 battery instead of NS40ZL batteries. It surely last longer than normal batteries per design intention. of course, it comes with a premium over normal lead acid batteries.

but will the saving obtain through idle stop able to offset the additional cost of a start stop battery? the answer is it really depends.

i asked one time when i got my bezza last year. like 440 something. And there's member update somewhere in this forum here that the price hiked to 5xx inclusive of reset the Idle stop system. and there's people says outside EFB selling for 3xx. But i'm not sure whether the spec is equivalent to the one we had from the factory or not. 40AH 410CCA for our original battery if not mistaken.

I do wonder whether those battery charger like Bosch C3 or C& helps to prolong the usable life span of the battery or not. By theory it should because you periodically fully charge the battery (say like once every month or once every quarter etc). I don't have the luxury to try though.

Finally, after many studies and readings and on-site-shops-learning, I have upgraded the rim and tyre.

Simple summary as below :-

Perodua Bezza 1.3 Premium X stock rim:
14 x5J ET45, was on Continental CC6 185/60/R14

Upgraded to SSR Type-C RS Thai rim:
15 x6.5JJ ET38

Total Damage = RM1110, Breakdowns:
Rim = RM680
Steel valve = RM40/4pcs
Allen key nuts (dark grey) = FOC/16pcs
Centre alloy cone = RM50/4pcs
Yokohama Bluearth ES32 fully imported from Japan = RM185/pc
(Tyre spec 195/55/R15, Treadwear 300, Y3919)
Balancing = FOC
Alignment = FOC
Trade in stock rim/tyre = -RM400

Hope it was a good deal, but I'm satisfied with the deal (not my first time deal with the boss).

Initially was eyeing on very nice rim, but it is ET35, which the rim/tyre after fit would 'looks' came out from body, i.e. not inline to body vertically.

As only first day driving after fitting today, had a chance drove on dry (city-drive) and then rain at the late evening (both city/highway-drive), perhaps new tyres - overall impression was very good, no aquaplan like CC6. Quietness- more or less the same as CC6, but handling is much better/secure. More review after few weeks drive perhaps..

My fren has the same profile & rear tyres were rubbing the wheel arc when the car was loaded with total 5 pax incl. driver. Even when not loaded, going over uneven road in slightly higher speeds over resulted in the rear tyres rubbing the rear wheel arcs.

YS Khong just did a vid on utube with a quick drive up Gohtong jaya with a bezza..
Check it out for his views..

Spoiler, car was not sponsored by perodua..
So he can say shit about it without bothering if he angers P2.. Lol

Ps. YS is a msian 5 times rally champion, don't drive the bezza like he does, he trully has skills that we mere mortals don't..

Finally, after many studies and readings and on-site-shops-learning, I have upgraded the rim and tyre.

Simple summary as below :-

Perodua Bezza 1.3 Premium X stock rim:
14 x5J ET45, was on Continental CC6 185/60/R14

Upgraded to SSR Type-C RS Thai rim:
15 x6.5JJ ET38

Total Damage = RM1110, Breakdowns:
Rim = RM680
Steel valve = RM40/4pcs
Allen key nuts (dark grey) = FOC/16pcs
Centre alloy cone = RM50/4pcs
Yokohama Bluearth ES32 fully imported from Japan = RM185/pc
(Tyre spec 195/55/R15, Treadwear 300, Y3919)
Balancing = FOC
Alignment = FOC
Trade in stock rim/tyre = -RM400

Hope it was a good deal, but I'm satisfied with the deal (not my first time deal with the boss).

Initially was eyeing on very nice rim, but it is ET35, which the rim/tyre after fit would 'looks' came out from body, i.e. not inline to body vertically.

As only first day driving after fitting today, had a chance drove on dry (city-drive) and then rain at the late evening (both city/highway-drive), perhaps new tyres - overall impression was very good, no aquaplan like CC6. Quietness- more or less the same as CC6, but handling is much better/secure. More review after few weeks drive perhaps..

My fren has the same profile & rear tyres were rubbing the wheel arc when the car was loaded with total 5 pax incl. driver. Even when not loaded, going over uneven road in slightly higher speeds over resulted in the rear tyres rubbing the rear wheel arcs.

YS Khong just did a vid on utube with a quick drive up Gohtong jaya with a bezza..
Check it out for his views..

Spoiler, car was not sponsored by perodua..
So he can say shit about it without bothering if he angers P2.. Lol

Ps. YS is a msian 5 times rally champion, don't drive the bezza like he does, he trully has skills that we mere mortals don't..

YS usually give good comment for the car he drives.

the saga with ys khong

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAUCxIv-5HY

When u send car to P2 service centre, did they give u back remaining engine oil & used oil filter?

Yes

Every 4 bottles they sell and Don give back the remainder, they get 1 free bottle..
Untung mah..

how does the shaft problem looks/sounds like?
how long u have been driving with new tyre?
how old is the bezza?

So close to get new car.

If u guys remember, I mentioned here that I ordered back in Oct 2019. So since wait too long, I asked salesman to convert my order to new facelift version. Salesman said yesterday he got my chassis number already.

Now the problem is, the bank officer just update the car code in my loan application and submit for approval without consulting. Loan amount remains the same. End up i need to topup additional 2k for d/p which I refused.

So salesman already talk to bank and they will reapply my loan according to new car price.

Sigh.

Kind of waited for 3 months  But since I told my salesman that I want to convert my booking to facelift version when I saw the leak, so consider 2 weeks? 

the one I got where I need to topup 2k was 2.9% because they follow the agreement that I signed last year. New one not sure, I heard it's going to be 3.2%.
Yeah that's why I insisted to change the loan on as long as get facelift version instead of the old one. lol.

going to SC on 16th..
will ask for u..