Hi everyone, my city is 2014 V spec. 2 days ago i noticed both radiator fan did not turn on at all, no matter how long i turn on engine or ac on or off.

I checked the 30A fuse (fuse box near battery) still okay.

Is there any other fuse/relay that i can check?

Is there a chance its the temperature sensor that's the culprit?

Thank you sifus!

2016 city. same problem.
aircond fan is at passenger side.

i saw the temperature high (red color) blinked once when aircon is cut off.

normally, when engine temp is high, aircond is cut off automatically. this is a typical set up.

i suspect it is radiator fan (the motor) faulty.

need to further troubleshoot.

it looks like chance for both are bad is high 

no, i meant mine one. has no time to troubleshoot it.

Hello sifus,

My GM6 city bought in 2015, now going into 7 years, clocking at around 130k KM

I really have a personal connection with this car, am not going to sell it, going to take good care of it as far as it can go

Any suggestion on where I can do a major service in terms of changing some parts to make it feel a bit new again?

Maybe can advise me things to change like maybe absorber, suspension, whatever other things which is advised to change to make it feel new again

Also need some minor bodyworks to be done coz got scratch here and there, some minor dents coz accidentally hit kerb

Share some budget for the above parts too yea.

Thanks sifus!

Well, it's clocking 130k already, I'm pretty sure some things are meant to be replaced to make the car feel bit better or feel like new hehe.. Though tbh i don't have any idea what to change.. That's why asking here

U got a point bro.. I've been sending to Honda for regular maintenance (though sometimes i didn't follow the every 6 months schedule, sometimes late 2 months haha)

But now i feel like my car doesn't feel as comfy as when I bought it new that time, that's why now wondering what to replace to make it feel better - things like suspension? Idk much about cars

Sometimes got some kruk kruk sound la.. Hahaha..

Engine wise i think it performs good still, i still can cruise 140-160 at highway with 3k-3.5k RPM.. Same like when i first bought it

Though another thing my car is suffering is the petrol consumption.. I only got around 10km/L now in city drive

Guys, any recommended tie rod and rack end to use?

Sankei 555 better?
https://shopee.com.my/product/303594758/698...09-1666095579.9

Or Honda ori?

https://shopee.com.my/product/88998252/8833...09-1666095671.9

Coz rosak. Got clunking noise on uneven road/hump.
Spark plug buy online iridium spark plug then change outside.

Just check, tie rod rm217 for one side.
Rack end rm157 also one side. So both sides total rm748
Hooyah

Wow.. not cheap. But i do believe original part really last. Guess our car need some maintenance/parts replacement after so many years.

Same here. Mostly sound on bump at certain speed. But not always.
Price very much different lo, sc much more expensive.
I go outside workshop check, bangla said is tie rod rosak la.
Yours last time just do tightening?

Hi sifus here, my Honda City 2014 gm6 (115k km mileage) will chok/jerk randomly when cruising from low speed (around 10-40km/h), would like to know what's the possible caused ya? Never skip any car service as per every 6 months
it's happened quite frequent for now  

Anyone here replaced lower arm before? Mine is a 2014 v spec GM6, now hearing some squeaky sound whenevr going over road bump.

Found that the ball joint rubber has torn and the internal metal is exposed. Would like to know any oem lower arm that fits the budget or go original

Hi guys, you probably have yet to hear of me or appear in the GM6 thread since I've been in LYN for so long. I replaced the lower arm many years back when the car was still under warranty and thought about how I would maintain it. After considering all my other vehicles, like Conti's vehicles, I realize silicon spray can prolong bushing or rubber material flexibility since the material they build for the bushing is the same. 

How I validate this by doing some surveys with a few mechanics (performance or general mechanics) and other ex-honda mechanics. The majority said new car bushing can wear and tear faster because a vehicle is built to comfort nowadays and bushing are softer, so when it comes to wear and tear is even faster due to its materials.. Not just Honda will face this; even Toyota, Lexus, Audi and other brands will face the same.

Hint: I've been using silicon spray after the sound came back until today. Its been many years. All good... Cheers!

I hope this would help you guys.

The SC claimed for me for the top mount during warranty. It didnt resolve the problem, the kluk kluk returned in a month after replaced.

After warranty expired, i went to outside workshop to check, and they do a front suspension disassembly to check. Found the lower mount to be the culprit. Show me its torn also. I did posted here the photos in earlier post.

They charged me RM100/side include labor. Original Honda part. I find it reasonable for this charges since they take time to test drive with me, do a tear down and check faulty part. Then assemble back everything to pitch perfect condition. Been almost a year already, still in good condition.

Your car mileage so low also got such problem. Come to think about it, i first complaint to SC also about 45k mileage time. Dragged 3 years never resolve by SC. Claim this and that for me, but still same.

My car also 6yo. Just renew roadtax insurance 1 week back.
2018 car.

This is the part I changed too. There is a scratch/indentation but not crack on the old mounting. Kind of too fast for it to happen again.

Edit: it's the top mounting, as the SA showed me the schematic drawing.

Life span 5 years.
If under extreme condition, pothole road, life span is less than 5 years.

I reported the problem 3 years plus (20+k km) after getting the car but couldn't reproduce the sound during test drive.
The kluk2 sound appeared earlier but only intermittently until it became very frequent.

Finally got it detected and changed the mounts (both sides) at SC out-of-pocket last year May.
Sound is back and it's only been < 10,000km and certainly not driven in extreme conditions.

The kluk2 sound is more obvious when the car is "cold" - driven in the morning or after patked whole day.
It sounds like coming from the front tyre (my case is it's nearer to rhs tyre). It appears when I drive on straight cemented floor (condo carpark) or smooth tarred road.

Idk how the tech checked but the car was left overnight for another separate job.

Yes, RM200 for both side.
I bring my car to this workshop somewhere in Rawang named LS S00 TYRE & AUTO SERVICES @ 33 Sport Rim Shop. One of the owner, En. Sufi is founder of GM6 Society Malaysia.

They took my car for a test drive to identify the noise, and then dismantle the entire front absorber system to check which part was faulty. For my case, this rubber is the only part that they find faulty, hence charged for these replacements.

Image is not my car, just random pick from Google.

Mine last time got the kluk kluk noise even on flat road, but not very obvious unless u r a very finicky person, which I am.

It get obviously audible when going over bumps  where the wheels are being pushed upward and came back down later.

Another one is when doing slow cornering like going into guard house of condo. The noise when cornering only happen when turning to the single side; my case is turn left got noise, but turn right no noise.

according to my mechanic told me, it's honda electric power steering produce the sound, from what he told me, the bush or plastic sleeve inside the steering rack worned out got free space for the steering rack itself making noise. U can slightly feel the vibration or loosen feel from the steering when u go over speed bump or yellow line.
part similar to this
[attachmentid=11497511]

The connector for horn is easily accessible, u may check the connection if it's loose then only check your fuse

No

I assume 20A is a bigger rated one?
If your fuse blows, it's never a good idea to upsize the fuse. Fuses exist to protect against over current at designed amperage.