ah, too late. already sent the car to workshop.

do you happen to have leaking valve cover before the problem start? my car starts to show this code after engine replacement in 2015. i'm thinking that maybe the mechanic forgot something because i found some loose screws here and there.

back from workshop. they said the sensor socket was broken. they fixed it, tried to rev the car hard again but still the error still pops out. they didn't charge me anything, just told me to come back by monday to see if there's any wiring issue because they close for sunday. today workshop really busy and the mechanics not quite in the mood to talk about car problem.

should i come back again or just MIA? haha.

Leaking camshaft cover was like every timing belt change interval. So i cannot isolate this factor.



Personally i would go back and tell them it's okay not to be able to catch the problem after they did a thorough checking on wiring. After all wiring problem are most difficult to catch.

I still will recommend to get a professional wireman to diagnose for you at a cost.

Did a bit more reading, the DTC P0325 means that the ECU didn't get any signal from the knock sensor. For specific car, there is a specific condition when the ECU request for signal from knock sensor. Which in Campro engine, I think it should be above 3000RPM. The ECU don't read the speed to request knock sensor signal, only RPM. Now, why did the code didn't trigger when I freely rev the car with the wheels of the ground?

The most common issue is when the new sensor don't play nice with ECU, which in most cases non original or aftermarket sensor. Second is bad wiring. Third, bad ECU.

Have you tried flooring the gas pedal until engine rev say, like 4000RPM?

And, this probably have no relation whatsoever, but by any chance are you using the factory stock tire size 195/60/15 before and after the accident?

Initially the code only pops up at certain rpm. Mine i remember between 2.5k to 3k rpm. But later in the days it would just pop up randomly even during low rpm speed like 1.X rpm.

Those days i just give up babying the engine and drive with rpm range between 4k to 6k if I'm in city driving hahahahah... Gave up on the car.

I have always choose original proton knock sensor, and even 1 time original ecu at Proton. Luck was bad on my side. So with knock sensor and ecu changed and problem still persist, I'm left with wiring.

If i were to talk to my old self, i would tell him to replace the knock sensor first, if it doesn't fix, next thing should be wiring. Even if you pay more on worksmanship you need to get a wireman to check harness for you. Because swapping out ECU is easy job compared to wiring inspection, and from a mechanic point of view, if customer is willing then why not trying a new ecu on customer's cost?

Have always using original tyre spec on original steel rim. So the answer is yes.

Little update on my case: changed sensor. Check engine light still pops out when driving higher than 3000RPM. No CEL when revving at P or N.

Checked for wiring. Turns out there is no current coming from the knock sensor wiring socket. The knock sensor is wired directly from the engine to ECU. There is no fuse in between. Which leaves the culprit to faulty ECU and wiring.

Need another day to check for ECU.

did you ever solve the issue with this P0325?

Gg bless you bro... I changed my ecu and it comes back.

Nervous for tomorrow. The ECU is placed near the blower, and my passenger side carpet is always damp from the cold aircond leaking from above. Maybe the moisture is corroding the ECU?

I'm thinking maybe can ask the workshop to make new wiring from knock sensor direct to ECU since the connection does not have any fuse (provided that the ECU is fine). Did a bit of googling, seems like it's a viable idea.

How much did you paid for a new ECU?

The wiring of ECU is kinda busy on it's socket. You need to be sure which wire is knock sensor wire. Or at least your mechanic doesn't mind trace it down. It's a rat nest tbh.

Can't recall on the price sorry. But it's below 1k.

Back from workshop.

They said it was fixed. Issue comes from the socket connector to the sensor. The socket was broken inside. They replaced new sensor just to be safe. Haven't tried test drive yet since road is busy now, but by the looks of the odometer and fuel consumption/100km, it seems like they did a lot of road testing.

Actually I'm quite afraid to test rev harder than 3000RPM. All this year living with the trouble code has trained me to be a light footed driver. I think I'm just going to drive like usual.

Total cost, only RM100 and 3 days of back and forth to the workshop.

You got a good workshop there, cherish it. I cannot tahan trouble code. That was my last straw tbh. But if you didn't drive beyond 4k rpm you missing the fun of persona man lol

i'm more passionate about the FC meter. last week saw 6.8l/100km, almost brings tears to my eyes. according to the manual, best fuel economy is when the car driven at 90km/h. i'm feeling too old to drive fast.

will try to vroom2 in a few hours when the road is clear. if there's still CEL, i'm gonna just give up.

I miss 6.8L/100km sia..... That was like long time ago already.. by the way if you pull to power band of 4k to 6k rpm at first gear, you probably will be doing like 40km/h only. Totally below speed limit of even normal trunk road.

back from test drive vroom2 on highway. the difference before and after having a working knock sensor is day and night. overall less NVH at higher speed, better acceleration, smoother gear shift.

now only left to figure out why the power steering is making noises under load or just normal for cheap china made steering rack.

Nice you solved it so fast. Mine was like dragging so long before it miraculously solved LOL