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 LYN PERODUA All-New MYVI Gen 3 - V2 [MG3], Passion Engineered - Dual VVT-i

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ginodave
post Jun 30 2018, 09:23 AM

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What happened to the other group. Is this the live one?

ginodave
post Jun 30 2018, 09:55 AM

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Changed turn signal lamp to led.
Darnnn!!! Its super bright. I just wanted to eliminate the lag caused by halogen. Not this bright

https://youtu.be/4ir1AToF6Fs

https://youtu.be/FdYSNIUS-Cs


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ginodave
post Jul 1 2018, 10:48 AM

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QUOTE(Tankhawk500 @ Jun 30 2018, 09:32 PM)
Holy shit it's brighter than the sunĀ  ohmy.gif (Bright AF)

What bulb is that BTW? I can add it to the mod list for those who might be interestedĀ  thumbsup.gif
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Hi Tankhawk500
Bulb type is PY21W

Note: If we get the normal LED ones, the turn signal will blink faster than normal (this is because there is function to indicate the driver when any of turn signal bulb gets damaged. So once we put in LED, as the load is very very low compared to halogen, the system thinks that the particular bulb is damaged, so flashes faster than normal). to solve this issue, either we need to add-in load resistance into the circuit or, need to get one with inbuilt load resistor.

In my case its the one with load resistor inbuilt.

https://youtu.be/sbnb5kugycc
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This post has been edited by ginodave: Jul 4 2018, 08:16 AM
ginodave
post Jul 25 2018, 03:38 PM

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QUOTE(Delta09 @ Jul 25 2018, 11:42 AM)
I've done 700+km. So far my issues will be:
1) Gear Up right side rear skirting coming loose
2) Can hear 'tok tok' sound from the rear (rear absorbers?) sometimes whenever I go over speed bumps.
3) Driver's door takes a bit more effort to close properly compared to the other doors.
4) Can smell fumes from vehicles even when I have the air recirculation mode switched on.

Pedal lock is anywhere from RM280-325 depending on who you go to. I did mine last Saturday.
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1. Heard lot of complaint on gearup getting loose after sometimes. My door visor still keeping good after 3 months
2. Rattling sounds are common in this model.
3. I guess this will not be the door issue. Lets say if all the doors are closed and the driver side one is the last to be closed, we may need to apply little more extra pressure to overcome the air pressure inside the car. This is applicable for all cars IMO.
4. Yes. I guess changing the cabin filter may help to improve.
ginodave
post Jul 27 2018, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(mikimoto @ Jul 25 2018, 04:11 PM)
Hi all sifus, just got my 1.5Av silver 3 weeks ago, got some questions hope any sifu here can shed some light:-

1) Factory fitted safety tint was provided by Llumar (stated in book), anyone know what is the TSER value?

2) Notice sometimes unable to unlock door by pressing the button on driver door handle button even the remote is near, anyone encounter this?

3) When park and off engine, i notice there is a obvious buzz coming from driver side when i open the driver door. It's similar sound for those car without window pillar where the glass auto wind down abit when open door. However myvi windows never wind down. Anyone know what is this buzz sound?

4) I got practice of off the AC before turn off engine to reduce the battery load to start engine and power AC compressor. But this myvi came with stop/start feature which i heard there is additional motor powered by car battery to power the AC compressor. So do i still need to keep this practice of turing off AC before shut off engine when park the car?

5) I connect spotify via bluetooth to listen music on the HU. However i notice the song play always get disconnected (spotify music play still running on phone but no sound from car speaker) whenever i'm doing some whatsapp text while the song is running. The fix is to exit bluetooth to radio, then go back to bluetooth music again, then the music will come back again to car speaker. Anyone experience this?

6) Is there a memory button for HU volume? My spotify music need turn until volume 25-30 to get a decent volume for listening while radio just need 10-15. So everytime i'll need to juggle the volume when switching, kinda annoying.....
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1. No comments
2. You need to be more close to the car while operating Door Lock/unlock.
3. I think the sound is from the motor when it tries to lock the steering wheel.
4. Its always been a best practice to turn off your AC at least 5 min before you reach your destination as this could avoid formation of molds/scales in condenser area which may result in foul smell in the longer run. I dont think that there is any additional motor to power up the AC. I believe that the AC compressor cuts off when engine enters ECO IDLE mode.
4. Yes I too faced this issue. And Yes the volume is too low on spotify (using htc m9+ v 6.0). There is no Volume memory function for different sources. It remembers last volume level irrespective of the source.

This post has been edited by ginodave: Jul 27 2018, 04:21 PM
ginodave
post Sep 4 2018, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(fin8Ex @ Aug 27 2018, 08:57 PM)
oic...good to know...thanks

say, if at stopped at traffic light, i shift to N, its okay rite?
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There is no big advantage of shifting to N while you stop at signal (there is no marginal fuel saving). There is no big problem either.
The frequent shifting may cause wear and tear.
ginodave
post Sep 13 2018, 03:59 PM

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HI all

Can anyone update on the rpm @ 100 km/hr for 1.5 version?

During the initial stages I had noticed the rpm to be less than 2k when driving @90km/hr.
now after 5000km it has shifted to more than 2000 rpm I guess.

will they be doing any changes in the 10k service? Planning to do the service this month.

TIA

This post has been edited by ginodave: Sep 13 2018, 04:01 PM
ginodave
post Sep 21 2018, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(keatbo @ Sep 21 2018, 02:25 AM)
If not mistaken, it is used to force stop/off the engine when moving or anything emergency.
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thats right. this is to turn off the engine when it is moving.
ginodave
post Sep 23 2018, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(MichaelJohn @ Sep 22 2018, 10:48 PM)
In terms of handling, new Myvi is definitely better at highway cruising than the previous gen Myvi, partly due to the lower centre of gravity and few more factors.

NVH is also more quieter than the old one however this is subjected to the tyres your using and etc.
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Dont know about the old Gen.

Was using Proton saga FL before, I felt more confident while taking turns at higher speeds in highway.

But when I started using Myvi, I feel bit of lack of handling. The steering is too soft even at higher speeds. May be because proton was using hydraulic powersteering.
ginodave
post Oct 1 2018, 07:57 AM

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QUOTE(Tankhawk500 @ Sep 29 2018, 06:45 PM)
So here it is finished results. Not lowered due to some reasons  tongue.gif

Rims: INFORGED Racing 17" 7.5JJ ET38 4H100

Tyres: Achilles UHP ATR SPORT 2 Radial 205/40/R17 (Will change this to Michelin PS4 or Falken Azenis FK510 later on when got budget)

Come with wheel centrecone and Rim Lock nuts + free alignment & Balancing.

Done at 33 Sport Rim Shop Rawang.  thumbsup.gif

All that's left now is the tyre lettering and Rear diffusers. (Also front and side bodykits if the budget allows it in the future)  thumbsup.gif

All in would be Rm2500 with trade in RM700 so that would be Rm1800. Reasonable I guess.  hmm.gif

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Amazing. thumbup.gif

does the big wheel/tyre makes any contact with wheel arc when loaded with rear passengers? Anything done to suspension springs?
ginodave
post Oct 3 2018, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(PPZ @ Oct 3 2018, 09:35 AM)
Hi guys, i am driving Myvi model 2015 (1.5cc SE model) and i keep getting mileage between 350km to 380km for a full tank of petrol.

I wonder if is this kind of mileage normal? If not, what can i do about it? Complain to Perodua SC? For those who are driving same model as mine, how much mileage you got for full tank? I am driving my car in KL area.
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I too drive in KL area, used to get average of 12-13 kmpl.

you can follow this link to find all of my fuel ups
http://www.fuelly.com/car/perodua/myvi/2018/ginodave/777617
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This post has been edited by ginodave: Oct 3 2018, 01:28 PM
ginodave
post Oct 3 2018, 01:42 PM

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Did 10,000km service today in Johor, Pasir Gudang.
OIl Fully synthetic, changed Oil filter and gasket (labor charge was free) total price paid RM177.77

happened to fix rattling sound coming from front and back right side doors.

first of all they have tightened the area where the door latch which fits in when closed.

Then they opened the rear door panel and applied some sponges behind the two cables as I requested (thanks to other group member for this idea).
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They have also applied some kind of black elastic substance to keep all the clips secured.
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ginodave
post Oct 3 2018, 04:13 PM

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QUOTE(PPZ @ Oct 3 2018, 03:19 PM)
seems like you got the better mileage than me but it is nearly the same overall. I get average around 350km to 370km for now.
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Will depend on driving habits too, keep the rpm below 2k in the city thumbup.gif
ginodave
post Oct 3 2018, 04:13 PM

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QUOTE(PPZ @ Oct 3 2018, 03:19 PM)
seems like you got the better mileage than me but it is nearly the same overall. I get average around 350km to 370km for now.
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Will depend on driving habits too, keep the rpm below 2k in the city thumbup.gif
ginodave
post Oct 8 2018, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(omg0807 @ Oct 5 2018, 09:38 PM)
bro, did the rattling sound fix permenantly?
because mine come back after few weeks @@
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the rattling sound issue is solved. till now no annoying sounds except the rear boot tray rattling when passes through yellow strips.
let us see for how long
ginodave
post Oct 24 2018, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(omg0807 @ Oct 23 2018, 09:56 PM)
as i know for the HU, u need back to the Betamek office (Supplier of the HU) to upgrade it only u can use it.
i facing this issue as well and already ask the Perodua Customer Service then they told me that.
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I dont think most of are going to use mirror link on daily basis at least me.

I just wanted to try and used it twice.
ginodave
post Oct 27 2018, 08:49 AM

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New Mileage update 90% highway.
rpm always below 3500. speed range 100-130kmph
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ginodave
post Oct 28 2018, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(LordDenning @ Oct 27 2018, 09:53 PM)
yo..
so my lil bro is gonna take over my car..

and now im considering to get another car.
i have no plans to upgrade to a honda/toyota or anything. i wish to keep budget <60k and use the extra money for other better things than spending on a car.

so idk to get back iriz or the new myvi.

what are your thoughts?

what i've like the iriz so far after owning for 3 years is
1) safety and solid driving. i actually enjoy driving this car a lot. and im quite a heavy footer, so the iriz's sturdiness gives me a lot of confidence actually.

2) related to the point above, driving on highway at 100+ km/h the car feels very planted, the steering is tight and grippy, etc. proton's car handling is really top notch.

3) so far no major or minor problems (apart from the god forsaken poor QC and build quality like dashboard and door rattling, etc)

what i've disliked:
1) petrol consumption (its utter shit. same FC as my 2.0 Sonata at home, for a 1.3 car?? smh.)

2) poor build quality or quality control, dashboard/door rattling. unaligned glovebox, etc.

3) routine servicing. idk how much better perodua's is, but everytime i send my car for service (every 6 months), it takes 3 hours+ just for a simple routine engine oil change. so i feel that everytime i need to send my car for service which is basically twice a year, i need to spend like 1 entire day at the SC.

so i'm trying to see feedback from current myvi owners to make my decision.
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Few points from my experiences
1. Myvi uses electric power steering where as proton still having hydraulic system if I am not wrong. I always felt the confidence when I was using proton saga fl.
Being a 1.5adv owner I can assure you that it is stable untill 140kmph with driver alone. Sometimes the steering looks very light but will get used to it.

2. Build quality is average. I am fed up with rattling sounds from Myvi. I went to service Centre for fixing this issue atleast 3 times, but it will continue rattling here and there.

3. Ride comfort: I would say Alza suspension is good compared with Myvi, though they are from different category.

4. FC is really good for a 1.5AT gear box. I used to get an avg 12kmpl in KL city drive and 17-18kmpl on highway, keeping at speeds 100-130kmpl.

5. Sound proofing is not great. Especially when it rains, the water splash on the wheel well is obvious.

6. With upgraded speakers and a added underseat sub, will get a decent music listening experience, but still need to work on sound proofing

ginodave
post Oct 29 2018, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(LordDenning @ Oct 29 2018, 02:23 PM)
So i just got back from test driving the 1.5 Advance model

First let me talk about the things I liked:
1) the 1.5 engine is good. its plenty powerful. BUT the acceleration is NOT good.
2) the aircond control looks and the way it work - BUT its annoying because there's not a 1 button to turn off AC, you must manually press the lower temperature button till it reaches Off. so if you go up till 5 and above, then you have to click click click click click then only AC is off. can foresee it will be mighty annoying having to do that everytime you get out of the car.
3) built in smart tag.
4) the looks really is nice. i saw white and silver and black. if i were to get one, i cant even decide. I like the black one a lot, but sometimes see white looks nice pulak, then see silver also looks nice.  tongue.gif
5) spare tyre is a full alloy rim, and with that in mind, the rear is still really spacious lol. the legroom is big.
6) the back seat you can recline.

ok now to the part where i absolutely did not like, some are borderline hate:
1) the build quality. like seriously.

-the handbrake lever is so fricking short? and also so plasticky and hollow feeling, like a toy. holding it with grip could give you the impression if you were to grip any tighter you would break it.

-same goes to the transmission stick. its so hard to see whether you shifted to N or D, no way to tell so must look from the info cluster panel in front to be sure.. why the hell they decided to cover the stick up with some saggy leather looking thing.  doh.gif

-wiper and signal stalks. enough said. its straight trash. looks cheap while the dashboard and steering looks decently good already. makes it really stand out and look so out of place. it is cheap looking and cheap feeling when you hold it. and on that note, they still use that black stick on the speedometer to reset trips and stuff. that is so 1980. you cant reset it from your signal stalks unlike the iriz or many other cars?

2) the chair is not nice. compared to my Iriz at least. < my biggest gripe.
yes its semi bucket seat, but it doesn't have enough cushion for side and thigh supports. not only that, the seats are rather "flat", its not designed to follow our body texture and position when sitting, unlike the one in iriz where it follows our body contour nicely.
just to tell you why i feel this one the most, i give u a non exaggerating comparison, when im stuck in a jam in the Iriz, i wont rage. cause at least the seat is comfortable to sit on. I can play phone and listen to songs peacefully still.
this one if i stuck in jam i conlanfirm will rage, cause i will rather get out of the car ASAP than continue stuck sitting in that sit for long periods. same goes to long distance travelling..

and then right, the seats are rather thin? or hollow? not sure how to describe it accurately, but i could feel like the frame of the chairs already.
no seriously. iriz seats are something i take for granted every day.

3) the acceleration. it has a good 1.5 engine. but the 4AT doesnt do it justice. idk why the acceleration feels very reluctant or slow? i tried to overtake cars just now, and its just... well quite disappointing.
but once the acceleration part is over, then suddenly you get a surge of power coming to you. but you no longer need it. so you have to brake instead. < if in highway sure not a problem, but in city driving acceleration is rather slow or bad then suddenly so much power from the 1.5 engine comes in later.

4) the central locking. my fucking god. when i press the internal lock button for the first time i thought someone threw stones at the car. what in the actual fuck was that? why is it so loud? and its the SNAPPY SNAP kind of loud.. like someone braking your bones kind of snap sound it makes.. just WHY???

anyway, if i go myvi i will thoroughly miss my iriz auto lock and unlock as well. auto lock when the car goes above 30km/h. auto unlock when you pull the door lever just like continentals.
and i found out you cant lock/unlock the doors from the door lever side as well. have to use the friggin button all the time at the center.

this along with all the other buttons you have the press in the car.. lets play a game of how many times you have to press buttons before you can drive..
1) engine start stop (okay this one is unfair but lets just put in for the LOL)
2) eco idle off
3) side mirrors unfold
4) air cond. what fan speed you like? 4 or 5? so click click click click.
5) lock the car.

oh wait, you forgot to take something, so unlock the car with a bone snapping sound. oh wait your gf complain radio too loud, so press some more buttons. <okay thats a joke but you get my point. seriously a lot of buttons to press lor.

anyway, thats what i feel at least..
so those are my main impressions after driving it. took it for a real test drive, was like an hour long with the SA. i went to city roads with potholes, i went highway did 4~5k rpm. i did everything la basically, even tried the eco idle and ASA. i also did door testing many times. the stuff i didnt comment on i guess its comparably as good as the Iriz like door closing "thunk" sound, etc.
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To be honest, you should get one Golf GTI

ginodave
post Nov 26 2018, 03:55 PM

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QUOTE(tifosi @ Nov 23 2018, 05:28 PM)
I just hardwired my A119 and tapped it to the same fuse as you. But I am having an issue of the dashcam restarting everytime the start/stop engine restart.

The only different is I am using a 2A fuse instead of 5A for the dashcam but I doubt that causes it. Do you have any issue on your auto start/stop?
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Depends on how you wanted to connect. If you have followed the steps that I have mentioned, it is meant to be turned ON and OFF with the ignition. The problem with this method is that the cam will turn OFF when ECO idle is activated ( I normally switch eco idle OFF).

If you want to keep it on during ECO idle, you may have to use different fuse slot (eg: ACC, I am not sure if this will be powered up during eco idle).

Or If you want to have parking mode with motion detection, there is a dedicated wire in the hardwired kit, which you may need to connect to fuse slot which is having continuous power supply all the time irrespective of ignition ON/OFF. you may need a circuit checker or multi meter for identifying correct fuse slot. It is advisable to use separate power supply system rather than using car's battery as this could completely drain your battery if you want to enable parking mode.


If you are using lesser Ampere fuse, lets say for example 2A, it will break the circuit if more than 2A is drawn, then you may need to replace with new fuse. even though the rated power rating is 3A for viofo, it may not draw that much of current so 2A fuse would work. but for safer side I would recommend using 3A and above as the function of dash cam is to capture footage during emergency and it will not do its function because of a burnt fuse in case.

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This post has been edited by ginodave: Nov 26 2018, 04:07 PM

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