For a start, try booting up your system on stock settings, if it can boot without needing a reset then you have the answer. If it still doesn't work, try again on severely underclocked settings (set the lowest fsb and multiplier) if it still can't detect on first boot. If it can boot properly on stock and/or underclocked settings then it means your motherboard voltage regulators are not powering up fast enough. If on underclocked settings the problem is still there, then its probably some other problem which I'm not familiar with.

Corsiar hx520, tx 700 , hx620 , vx 550  ... to name a few
Sunbeam Nuuo 550    (using now)( old but super quality even johhny guru say )
SST Zeus 560 , Op1 K ( using now ), Op1.2k
Delta 600~800 wat
Dare i say it, coolermaster 800wat and above
Thermaltake Toughpower 1k wat and above, 700wat and above also not bad..
antec quatro

then some rare brands,

seventeam, etasis, emac/zippy , andyson , Pc power and cooling ,

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Added on November 30, 2007, 10:54 pmany of the above will do

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Added on November 30, 2007, 11:00 pmoih almost forgot , teh gigabyte psus are also not bad..

It depends. If the power supply is truly reliable, then even at its limit it will still mantain good voltage & ripple regulation even for long periods of time. The CM Realpower 550w that I use can handle a full 100% load for 24 hours with no problem, and even a 650W load for short durations. Is your Enhance 460w the one from 3431? Seem to be hearing that the voltage regulation is a bit weak on that PSU at the limit. But at least it doesn't blow up like those cap ayam/akucomel/power tak logik.. 

-extra
Some reviews of some screwed up cheap @$$ power supplies, just something for a bit of amusement reading. Especially like the comments on the 2nd one.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/review_details.php?id=134
http://www.jonnyguru.com/review_details.php?id=129

At stock it boots properly but only need to press F1 right (no hanging, no need to reset)? If that the case then it -might- be the PSU. But even then I suspect something else, possibly a motherboard voltage regulator not functioning as well as it should. If the voltage regulators are to blame, then you will have this problem using most processors on this board except for the lowest power ones.

Single rails are better than mutli railed PSUs for most purposes because you can't accidentally place an unbalanced load across the rails. But multi rail PSUs have their advantages too, a true multi rail PSU (which has completely seperate transformers and regulators for each rail) isolates voltage flutuations & EMI on each rail from other rails. Effectively two seperate PSUs in one, but designed to work together if necessary. Unfortunately, there are very few PSUs (even from highly reputable manufacturers) using a true multi rail design, most cheat and share regulators, and just place a current limiter on each rail, which has none of the advantages of a true multi rail. Hardwaresecrets does a good job of examining PSU circuits to determine how good a PSU is, though they lack the equipment to stress test the PSUs.

Is it true the those PC Power & cooling silencer 750watt and below are actually OEM by SEASONIC, just like the CORSAIR HX series ?

I'm really stumped now..by right the multi rail should be giving the problem, not the single rail. There is NO increase in actual amperes going to the motherboard regardless of which PSU you use, the number on the PSU is just the absolute max. In reality it will only supply what is asked for at that particular time.

I'm really starting to think this is not a PSU problem..probably the mobo..

off all PSU listed here, if i were you, i'd go for OP650... why?

1. single 60A +12V rail
2. powerful +3.3 and +5.00 rail too
3. silent
4. non-modular type
5. it's silverstone - i'm Silverstone ST56ZF user

why not having DA750? because it's modular type

why not having ST75ZF? because it's multi-rail design

why not Corsair? because i hate Corsair

why not Enermax? because used to love old Enermax product, but now... i think it's just unreliable

why not Gigabyte? it's a good PSU, but i simply don't like as well as it's motherboard

i can't really explain in details, but from what i understand, IMO la... modular seems harder to manage those cables (yala... because the cables coming out from from all over PSU unlike modular coming out from one spot you know what i mean?), another thing is... modular vs non-modular... we got voltage regulation loss due to that modular design... like i said earlier... i can't really explain in details

secondly...
i just don't like modular design, it hurts my eyes badly
no offense , but that's my personal preference , IMO getting a good PSU is like one time big investment, get a good and can last long than get a lousy, cheaper but can't last longer

for example...
Silverstone ST56ZF vs Silverstone ST56F

those were same wattage, same company but difference is the price and the spec, why would i choose ST56ZF instead of ST56F? because it's single rail design that's all... as i said earlier... when buyinga new PSU, should be single rail, non-modular design, heavier the better, effective wattage @50°C (that's one of good reason why i choose Silverstone...) and so on...

@all

haiya guys u want hardcore just get Zippy PSUs from the US la. Hardcore Server PSus.

OR

PC POwer and Cooling, anyone game

, AFAIK, we don't have Zippy distro, but i think i know someone's gonna bring in the PC P&C , can't tell though, it's only too early to tell

1kW PC P&C too much le... i mean, it's 80mm fan surely as loud as Delta screamer (eh... they using Delta fan anyway (IIANM))

@quaz
how is the performance at stress loads, bro? Whats the ESR or ripple for your PC Power n Cooling PSU?

in the end we still look at the total ampere la rite 
Chow

Just got my PC P&P Silencer 610w
love it and and its freaking silent!

single big fat rail

if ur planning for hardcore OC,go for st56f..but if u still consider for looks and style,while still want to OC hard(no core here) go for odin..

p/s:i oc hardcore wif this odin,no problemo..hehe..xixo too hardcore OCer,using st56f,no problemo..

Personally, I don't trust voltage readings given by software since the monitoring chips of motherboards are not to say terribly accurate to begin with. Sure, they're good enough to warn you when the PSU is going south and voltages are flying all over the place, but if you want to compare between decent PSUs to see which is the best you're not going to get a consistent answer. To check how good is a PSU's voltages, a digital multimeter is needed.

ESR is equivalent series resistance, which is a capacitor spec, not a PSU spec. What you're talking about is ripple voltage, which are small, very fast fluctuations which can only be detected by using an osciloscope.

Actually, those fake 'multi-rail PSUs' are generally safer than single rail PSUs if the current limiters are properly done-the result will be that you will not be able to overload the PSU; doing so will cause the safety trip to go off. And both current limited 'multi-rail' PSUs and single rail PSUs have one weakness in common-if there is a massive fluctuation due to a rapidly changing load, all the lines will be affected. True multi-rail PSUs have each rail isolated from each other, so fluctuations on one line will not affect the others. Single rail PSUs have only one real advantage over multi-rail (whether true multi rail or current limited), that is you can load the single rail all the way to the limit before it trips. On multi-rail PSUs, overloading even a single rail will trip the PSU. But all said, loading a PSU to the limit is never a good idea, it greatly shortens the life of the PSU.

The PCP&C Silencer IS pretty quiet at low load, because very little heat is produced the fan doesn't need to spin much. But at heavy loads, then you're right-it really needs to be 'silenced' by a 120mm fan.

Its a good PSU, like OC4/3 said. The review by jonnyguru.com explains it in full. The only downside is maybe the software bundled with it, which as I've been told this problem has been fixed.
I don't recommend this at all, the voltage regulation is ok, but the ripple voltage at high load is off the chart. Under overclocked conditions, your hardware (especially mobo voltage regulators) could give way even though the voltage readings appears ok (its only obvious on a osciloscope). For details, read the review at jonnyguru, scroll though the list till you find it.
One glance and I know your PC doesn't even take 500W, much less 650W. Its probably around 450W only (you're not doing SLI right?)

Overclocked C2Q -200W max
8800 ultra superclocked -150W max
rest of system - 50-100W

The max values are as I said-max. If they actually took up that much power, even water cooling won't cool it down to comfortable temps (it'll be around 50-60C). Aircooling would be close to useless, even high performance 3rd party coolers will be running close to limits (70C+).

Which is better,ocz,corsair HX,pc p&c?