Wait this year see see accord with type r engine (but slightly smaller turbo).🤩

Tint is a rip off, can get better specs outside. SA will terrorise you with warranty if do outside but is not correct as you can do outside as long as done professionally.

Body kit outside half price can get, including paint and installation, but is not covered under insurance. Anyhow if accident the body kit will be the least of your problem. If only affecting your body kit in case of accident then you also won’t bother to use your NCD.

Utility package total waste of money. You save this and in few years time use this money to get better tyre / or save few more months straight get navdy better. Or, you save extra few months more to do coating, get cicada floor mats, wheel arch Insultion etc to cut down on tyre noise. Door visor adds to the noise, unless you add ah beng exhaust in which case noise is not the main concern.

Basically we need to dwell deeper into the warranty issue. If engine suddenly cannot run, engine issue need to swap, drill holes for spoiler at the back does not void warranty. Never is, never has and never will. Obviously some unlucky owner will have to deal with service advisor who will say otherwise( these warranty things differ in opinion from different SC, good SC will find out and do warranty for specific items and does not void whole car because you did your tint outside)

This will affect more to people who are not technical-savvy and find the correct words to deal with bad SC. I know at least one person who manage to change the whole car from SC with the correct discussion and strings of complaints, even with bodykit and tint done outside( literally Honda took back the car and register a brand new civic etc for him after 1 year of use and abuse).

Electronics warranty void due to potential (potential) bad wiring which would short that particular line. If you go to SC with cincai mentality, whole car electronics void. But usually only void that line which the added brake light connects to the fuse( which the fuse is used to protect the whole car from a bad line from)

Easy case is to remove the wiring for the brake light wiring first before doing any claims. If not, normal service SC won’t check that much, especially since they are too busy with so many cars to be serviced.

Good service advisor would know what is what and won’t kacau you that much.

Same me, but only K3.450. You need to buy the foam gun as well. When use, don’t get too close as the closer you get , the more abrasive the jet stream (1 meter away or 1 arms length should be fine) . Use the vario gun but turn to max, it will have a nice pillow level of water. Don’t use the fixed pressure, that is for you to wash flooring and walls, highest pressure and can remove paint if have defects.

Depends as well where you buy your car from, probably pm to discuss this privately.

Yup, a mist like soft pillow. Plus using 2 bucket washing system and foam gun to reduce potential scratches or swirls. White orchid pearl easy to spot...

Can, you walk in to SC Honda hatyai, Thai civic have sensing. it is kind of plug and play but not as simple to ‘plug’ as wires need to go through few places. Need to check/ calibrate the distance as well.

But since our meter clusters are digital, it’s a lcd screen now so no need to change.

Meantime you can actually install the blind spot camera as some ppl bough from Thai Honda and sell here.

Sad case for civic in Malaysia but the bright side is.... at least we didn’t get civic from Pakistan, even less stuff.

TC have front sensor? 😱 what type of sensor?

Ooo ok I understand what you mean now.... tcp or tc both don’t have front sensor or Honda sensing..... apologies....

I don’t think that was what he meant, tcp led have special designed reflectors and not just the bulb change.

You could get Taiwan 🇹🇼 made ones though.

Anyone upsize from 215/50R17 to 225/50R17?

Any effect? Good and bad....

People are laughing at us from across the causeway, from Middle East countries like UAE, to Scandinavia countries like Norway, from Taiwan to US..... all digitise everything with one small gantry across highway, drive across at any speed, up to 180km/h. Meanwhile Malaysia need to do testing on already normal tech (not even state of the art). Then still need test group, stick on headlight..... sad but understandably ‘katak ‘. I blame the lack of stem knowledge and the no more ‘lawatan sambil belajar’ 😂

Actually for normal lay man’s term, yes more maintenance as engine oil has its own ‘calculation’. But in actuality, the engine oil calculation is the correct way of calculating km. This is cause it takes into account how long you drive ( instead of only how far you drive), how hard you drive ( acceleration, speed), then calculate the degradation of the oil. This ensures the integrity of the oil is maintained as well as the equipment it protects (engine + turbo).

However it is common for many of us to sometimes lump both service (engine oil + regular km ) together if the difference is negligible (~2000km). This reduces the need to go SC second time. The cost of maintenance is about the same as when you do 10000, 20000, ....km, you don’t pay for engine oil change , you only pay for the checks and other changes like filters, spark plugs , cvt oil etc. The engine oil change meanwhile only charge you for engine oil change and nothing else. It’s just a hassle and not cost you anymore than necessary.

Usually those who say more expensive as more maintenance either does not own these new tech cars before and just empty talk, or other company salesman 😏 trying to spread unfounded rumours, or did not understand the concept nor go into detailed calculations ( which also take into account risk factors of previous method of calculations).

That is what I was thinking as well.

I’m thinking of going for 225/50r17 as there is more choices.

Primacy 4 have this size as it is the same tyre for accord as well.

On top, Bridgestone Potenza S001 also is available in this size.

I’m looking at whether have Pirelli P zero this size or not.

Lesser profile means less contact patch, less grip. If increase from 215 to 225, car will be higher by 5mm, I’m not sure the cvt will account for this as if normal gears, migh need to adjust gear ratio.

Get 5k rebate and go out get yourself a better tint brands and specs.

Neither as both are overpriced plastic pieces. With that price, you can get carbon fiber ones or more aggressive styles cheaper.

Read through this club forum, you will find your answer. You may start from page 1 with most main details are located.

Dangerous leh, need to pump Honda Ron 97, if not will void your car warranty.

Anyway, your civic have a 1 year battery warranty, usually we would need to change before that period ends due to weak battery. But after 1 year, we usually change outside as Honda charge premium for the battery, same brand and model.

Of course there will be smart guys at sc that will try to say..... tukar luar nanti void warranty etc...... but if you probe them, talk to the manager, write to HQ, they will confirm it is not true.

Have, it would have a bang when you hit something. Other than that, no beeping sound.

Now mc5 move up to mc6 d, performance wise I can say mc5 is ok, as per uhp . For performance, if have the money, PS4 is better.

Noise and harshness (nvm) is not a good area uhp tyres are good at. You want nvh, primacy4, turanza t001, yokohama dB or contipremium is the way to go.

Fuel economy is better if you go for tyres with less resistance, meaning not using uhp tyres as they have more grip.

Depends on whether u fly 180km/h everyday and go up Genting or you only an a to b guy in selangor with jam everyday.