Did a sketch of what i wanted to do for the bench


The shaded part is metal
Wonder if ok, any comments from forumers here are very welcome
No experience in this so hope i dont miss anything

This post has been edited by brapa?: Oct 8 2018, 03:30 PM

1. Better to do a 3-D diagram so the design is clearer. If possible, get a sample picture how you want it to look like to the fabricator so they understand (see example attached)




2. 23" height (floor to sitting), this would be for a counter and not dining table rite? Dining table chairs are usually 18" from floor to seating (it too tall, the person sitting would need to hunch over their plates to eat)
3. No measurement on width of wood or bench
4. Currently no clear design how the wood is fixed to the metal frame (e.g. screwed in, locked in, dropped in?)
5. What type of metal? Metal, mild steel flat bar, stainless steel?
6. Foot rest - one or 2 bar across? Thickness / Width of metal?
7. Just a note, your wood is 8' (approx). This would make the bench quite heavy to move.
8. Edges of metal, rounded or square
9. It would be easier if you found the wood and give it to the metal fabricator. So they can make sure the metal fit directly to the wood (sometimes wood warp and might not be straight).

I see, ok. Ya, later they do what they think i want haha

If i use the simplest & cheapest design, maybe just order the wood, then order 2 legs with holes for screws. Then Bring home & screw them myself ? Yet to check if 6' can fit into car onot .. Seems like this simple bench not so simple, need to transport things here there

2. 23" height (floor to sitting), this would be for a counter and not dining table rite? Dining table chairs are usually 18" from floor to seating (it too tall, the person sitting would need to hunch over their plates to eat)
Yup, its a counter so the bench need to raise. I tried sitting with different heights & the higher it goes, the more syok it feels as it gives me a commanding view of the dining table & out to the balcony. But my wife did mention its so high confused.gif I guess i will retry again & see..

Yeah, same with my wife. Women have shorter bodies hence higher might not be better for them. Having a commanding view versus position to eat is very different. Even with my height, I feel its uncomfortable when I use my bench for eating. Drinking coffee is ok but not for eating. Maybe look at designing it shorter and if you still feel a need to make it higher can later add a cushion seat on the wood.

3. No measurement on width of wood or bench
At 1st i was thinking of 1' but most articles talk about 14 - 16". So maybe go for 14" then, can lie on it & use as day sleeping 'bed' ahahaa. Can 2" thick support 4 people ?

14" is minimum for width. 12" at the top also means 12" base - this could be too narrow causing the chair not too be stable. I was concern as well if my wood bench could support the weight of 4 people (4 x 75 kg average weight per person = 300 kg total weight) hence I designed the metal frame to provide additional support strength


4. Currently no clear design how the wood is fixed to the metal frame (e.g. screwed in, locked in, dropped in?)
If possible want to keep it simple & cheap, so probably just screw the leg to the underneath of the wood.. What is locked in ? I saw yours is dropped in.

If you want to drill in the legs to the underneath, then probably need to pre-drill the wood so it doesn't crack when you screw into the wood (this is also dependent on the wood type you choose). Locked in was another idea I have whereby you have a frame for the wood to slot in at the end. Essentially your bench legs are two rectangles sitting on top of each other - they are welded together. Larger rectangle is the legs while the smaller rectangle is equivalent to the thickness of the wood. I decided to finally use a drop in frame for my wood to sit on. The frame provided additional strength and later if I choose to, I can just lift up the wood and change to a different type. My wood bench is not screwed into the metal frame.

5. What type of metal? Metal, mild steel flat bar, stainless steel?
Stainless would be woooo.. so nice. If too expensive, maybe mild steel flat bar. Hope it can hold 4 people. But then those square hollow bar looks better.

Depends on house design, preference, etc. Stainless steel is bright and shiny. Mild steel flat bar is very strong but also very heavy. Your dimensions are about the same as mine. My entire bench weights around 18 - 22 kg. Can easily hold 4 pax. Take note with mild steel will have rust when in contact within 30 mins of air. Have to quickly clean it of rust and apply it with a clear aerosol spray to protect it from oxidation. I liked the raw mild steel look in contrast with wood. Gives it a very industrial + wood natural look


6. Foot rest - one or 2 bar across? Thickness / Width of metal?
Yoour question caught me, i guess i really need to do 3d drawing to visualise. At 1st i thought 1 bar to save cost, but to connect the bar to the 2 stands need a 'crossing' in the stand to hold the bar so its not simple also. Hmm..
Should the foot rest screw to the legs or soldered ? If screw, it will be easier for me to transport it back from the workshop.

Here's my little secret - I actually designed the size of my bench so it could be easily transported. If you have access to a 4WD pick-up then no issues with transportation. Single welded piece is stronger than screws. I guess you could designed it with screws / fasteners but would need at least x2 thicker screws + spring washers to give it strength


7. Just a note, your wood is 8' (approx). This would make the bench quite heavy to move.
Oh, its 6', always got people complaining about my writing hahaa.

Better do it on computer so no arguments about measurement later with the carpenter / metal fabricator


8. Edges of metal, rounded or square
This also havent thought. Meaning the 4 right angles of the legs ? Maybe a bit rounded in order not to scratche the floor

Depends on what type of floor you have. I actually have felt floor protectors under the mild steel legs to prevent floor scratches. Its quite heavy that its easier to drag than to lift up. FYI.


9. It would be easier if you found the wood and give it to the metal fabricator. So they can make sure the metal fit directly to the wood (sometimes wood warp and might not be straight).

If i use the simplest & cheapest design, maybe just order the wood, then order 2 legs with holes for screws. Then Bring home & screw them myself ? Yet to check if 6' can fit into car onot .. Seems like this simple bench not so simple, need to transport things here there blink.gif

It's not hard, just need to think and plan in more detail that's all. Once you do manage to do this, you will feel a strong sense of accomplishment. Plus the total cost for me was ridiculously cheap compared to the same bench dimensions shops outside were charging.

This post has been edited by bigred: Oct 9 2018, 12:58 PM

Very good way to repurpose materials. however not many ppl own a good sanding machine or know how to use one properly. cheers.

Errr .... I initially didn't own one but thought it would be a worthwhile investment considering I was going to do some woodwork (It was!! Paid for itself multiple times over with the work done)

Didn't know how to use it at first well when I first bought it but thanks to 2 teachers - Experience and YouTube - haven't injure myself yet so far.

good for you. it's always never too late to learn a new skill.

I support your effort. I myself am ardent proponent of re-purposing materials like metals, woods and ceramics. gives them a new life instead of buying new. cheers.

Tadaaa...
all set
worried whether the footrest will sag though

You really want the foot rest huh?

Looking good ... I hope you pass them the finished wood so they can fabricate the metal. Get them to screw the wood to the metal frame so it is a whole chair when you collect it.

Reason if you get them to fabricate the metal frame then transport back to your place, the "footrest" metal might bend as it is the only horizontal metal piece connecting to the two legs.

Still pondering over the bench height, anyway i think i can start shopping for the timber 1st.

Luckily 6' can fit into the car, but For 2.5" plank, i used a weight calculator in a website & it comes to nearly 40kg Yr pointer about the footrest bending got me concerned. This rest is a pain in the butt, without it things would be so much simpler but after trying out 20" seat height, my feet cant touch the ground so no choice then.

Its gonna be a back killer to move once screwed onto the metal frame. How much do u reckon yr frame weighs ? I m wondering if i can get it out of the car in one piece

Lol sorry, just noticed this.

Yeah the trestles are from ikea

Weight is around 30kg.

Material:
1. Pine wood: RM576
2. Mild steel flat bars: <RM40


This post has been edited by Reubs: Oct 24 2018, 07:39 PM

haha, thank you for replying, i am not rushing anyway. currently house is still...pending water pipes, electrical cables, and toilet doors

only wetworks and sewage done, perhaps by next year nia get toilet door. now, erm...open concept =)

Hi, I am looking for the above joint solidwood for the kitchen worktop as above.
Size around 8 feet x 2 feet and 9 feet x 2 feet.

Does anyone have any places to recommend for the above ?

https://www.ikea.com/my/en/catalog/products/50297107/

https://www.ikea.com/my/en/catalog/products/80372299/

Thanks for the reply but the one at ikea is only up to 8 feet and i need 9 feet..

If you want joined wood, not that difficult. (Single piece is definiitely more expensive and harder to find). The dimensions you wants are pretty easy too (8'x 2' or 9' x 2') especially for joined wood. You didn't specify the thickness of the kitchen block ... this could be the other deciding factor on the cost.

1. Best is for you to specify what type and how many joins ... you don't want the workshop to give you 5 pieces of different joined wood. Also specify how the wood are joined ... most of them will use wood glue only. When the wood warps, you can see the joins starts to split.

2. Specify the type of wood you want. Ikea wood might not stand the test of time and use if you are putting it in the kitchen (humidity, water, hard knocks, etc). Best is to use hard-tropical wood - teak, chenggal, balau, ironwood. These woods are used for outdoor in Malaysia (used to build bridges, jetty pier, etc), hence quite hardy. Avoid pine, you will see alot of dents on the wood very fast (sakit hati)

3. Colour and grain - depending on the wood type, you will then be restricted to the colour of the wood and the grain. Some wood barely has any grain. Teak is very "yellow" in colour, might not go with the kitchen deco. Yes, you can stain the wood but if you are using for kitchen countertop, maybe best to avoid anything that is not food grade near your food.

Look back at my earlier post, I did give 2 or 3 workshops that will do the wood joining. There are several wood specialist workshops pop-ping up, hence you have more choices now.

Thank you bigred for your useful information!

recent project, replacing a damaged WC cover and also updating it to look more modern scandi/muji ish feel.
2inch thick american red oak slab.

What's underneath the wood slab ? Plastic sheet?

Not concern about the high level of water humidity impacting the wood?

can coat it with poly
but not a concern in this case. as its just a concept idea and its solid oak. wont spoil so easily like nyatoh or meranti.