Foldie privilege!

Selling my foldie and parts https://bicyclebuysell.com/item/416777/tern...-original-specs if any enthusiasts would be interested with it 

Sorry would prefer COD, better if you can see and inspect the bike before buying

Cost me less than 2k include shipping and upgrade to 3D handle post from taobao.
There's local selling selling in some fb group with slightly higher price but I think it worth the mess to order online and do your own tuning after that.

I'm using a 349 wheelset so doesn't fold as compact as original it came. But can be fit perfectly into IKEA dimpa bag.i usually leave the handle post unfold and roll around. This frame doesn't support magnetix system but it's quite easy to roll around because there's more friction at the hinge compare to Dahon or tern. In fact I find it even easier to roll compare to magnetix system.

The saddle is brooks B17, one of the best saddle money can buy  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:

And i use forwarder agent for shipping, It's cheaper compare to the official shipping from taobao.
Will send the forwarder and taobao seller link for you.

If you wanna save the hassle, i had seen someone on facebook group is selling.

I think it's cheaper now, saw somebody selling for 2.1k. Can buy frame only and built part by part also.
I will choose to buy local to save the hassle to be honest.
I use air shipping.
The agent i use offer a charges base on half of the actual weight and half of the size weight, and it's actually cheaper compare to sea ship.
Cost me around RM200
Didnt kena tax because i use shipping agent. They can settle most of the taxation issue.
They can even bring in sensitive item that taobao official shipper not allow.

no worries lah..9 speed also enough

my ka16, i setup 2x8 speed only (16speed).my setup 53/39 crank with 8speed casette 11-23 and 439 wheels.and all the time i used only 13,15 and 17t cogs and either 53 or 39 chainring even when i climb jerai last time.. others cog never used it at all

Mine is 9 speeds. And i upgrade to Fnhon 3D handlepost also.

Don worry about the gears. 9 or even 8 speeds is enough, just make sure u choose for 11-28 for cassette. More gears doesnt mean lighter gear, more gears only translate to smoother cadence transition, which very important in long distance road bike ride, but in small wheels bike, the difference is too small.
Hence no point for 11 speeds.

If you are worry for climbing, choose smaller chainring. Mine come with 53T, pair with 11-28 9 speeds cassette, 349 wheels, it's actually the same gear inches as 34x28T, 700C wheel. So i can climb almost any hills that i tried with RB, just that much more slower la.
The only downside is this frame does creak when climb (very common problem for side fold foldie), which i cannot tahan. So i use this for chill and commute ride.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
U can check here or just download apps from your phone. My foldie lightest gear is the same as my RB. Of cause heaviest  gear can't compare. So climbing is not an issue.

U can't use 11-32 on this frame tho. 16" wheel is too low to use medium cage/long cage.

I see. Which dahon do you suggest?
I also saw some people use Java or Trinx but not sure about which. Thus asking otai here for info. Hehe.
Thank you for the info as I do not mind for a used one but unfortunately I am in Sarawak.

Guys i pulled trigger on this!

Bike under staircase sudah almost full house, but usually i will clear some so i can buy some more.

actually yes, looking to dispose of my Tern Link P9 before my Fnhon arriving later next month...

err...i ada

dahon dabike
dahon speed p8
tern verge p9
fnhon zephyr
doppelganger fx04 blackecho
doppelganger premacy 26er convert to 700c folding bike
khs flite 200 roadbike

hahaha..
previous owned

dahon vybe d7a
mongoose
trinx ka1606

i thinks thats all. wont buy any bike either in future

HAHAHHA...
i will buy if i wanted to, but need to clear some bike. for the time being dont know what bike will make me BUY..

all of my bike perform nicely without any problems. and all of my bike i had done bike fitting to fit me nicely without any problems.

no hurry bro!

After having one joint pain after another for months, I have a new revelation on bike fitting… fitting is loosely separated into 2 parts. The leg and the posture.
The leg part is as described by sifu ettige, that will improve your power efficiency, prevent joints injury mainly the knee. Generally, when you get your power efficiency, your injury risk will be minimal. The knee-in-front-of-padel is a good general reference, but there are more to just that. Where you position your feet on the pedal also contributes greatly.
The posture part of is where you get into the posture of your choice as comfortable as possible (because cycling never a comfortable activity, it is always painful, no matter what you do). Your choice of upright, bend as low as the front wheel axle for max aero position and everything in between. And there are no such thing as perfect position, you see, UCI never came out with regulation for that…
You can change to longer stem or lowering the headpost to bend further down. Use shorter stem and/or raising the headpost to ride more upright.
In real life if you have a frame too big, to just has to bend further down. When you have a frame too small, just sit taller ler…
I don't have the flexibility of teenagers so I am happy siting with my spine 45~60 degree to the horizon. If you think it's not aero, you go ahead and lower your head below your saddle, I enjoy the air resist to ensure I ride slower.

We are not pros, so precise bike fitting is not necessary. But the basic bike fitting is important though. Anyway bike fittings are also limited for irregular physique like me, 'fatty fella'. Long waist, short reach arms with short reach legs, overweight etc.etc. Unless if I am going for a custom bike builder most bike frames in the market are standardized, meaning they cater to the regular mass market.

The basic measurement that you MUST adhere to is,

01)   Seat height. Most newbies will ride lower as they are more confident if their legs touch the ground easy but this will tire you fast. Ideal is your knees are just slightly bend when your pedals are at the lowest point. Not straight though as this will be too high. If you see someone's butt is flopping up and down, up and down, to the right to the left ,that means the saddle is too high.

02)   Saddle setback. Adjust your saddle front and back until you find your sweet spot. Usually if your knee cap is just slightly in front of the pedal spindle (center in other words) when your pedal is in mid stroke (3 o'clock position). Adjusting this right will avoid your jewels rubbing against the saddle.

03)   Handlebar reach. But since folding bike handlebars are adjustable, it's easy. Also some ride foldies for the relaxing manner it can be ridden so I don't think this is important BUT it must not be too near as it will be tiring. It has to stretch out a bit.

I can't get 2 of this on my Giant folding bike and it was a torture riding it. The reach was too near, meaning top tube is too short and also the set back  was out. My knees went way way over the pedal spindle even with my saddle pushed to the rear as far as it could. This means the seat tube is too upright. It's sold anyway, cheaply too.

So, check the 3 basic criteria when you are buying a foldie. Folding bikes are for relaxing rides lah, not pro racing. Off course for mtb or road bike, more measurements comes into consideration. 

PS/ For condition no.2, you still need a suitable saddle. Wrong saddle still will pain your jewel. Like myself, even Brooks didn't help. Already sold off with the Giant    . Maybe jewel too big      

Here's the end results. Now waiting for components from China.

If you can afford Brompton, just pay someone to service for you.
Sure you want to compare a motorcycle with a folding bicycle? I personally prefer Axia, can keep rain and mud out and air conditioner is the killer. Kapchai is 2nd on my list, it's fast and can push it when I feel like working out.