Hello,

My Hyundai i10 2010 1.1 auto, before change to new ATF, car no problem, drive smoothly

today change new ATF and filter, then my car become

power loss,

slow response,

cannot shift gear,

wont go more than 3000rpm,

cannot climb hill

then went back to the workshop and change to hyundai SP-III,

also same problem.

Below is the ATF fluid used by the workshop

http://estremointernational.com/spec_atf_mv.php



now he ask me to drive back and see how, but the problem still the same.

Anyone experience this before? or know why is it like that?

Please help

This post has been edited by foongz1994: Jul 9 2017, 08:09 PM

I think your car goes into limp mode now. Stuck in 3rd gear.

Clear the fault code for the gearbox first.

oh, but there is no error code appear in the speedometer, so still need to clear it?

are u using the correct GB oil?

If your i10 accepts Hyundai-KIA SP2/SP3, then it should be alright, unless he/she overfilled or underfilled. Check your user manual for the ATF type.

If yours need Hyundai SP4, you better flush it out.

You did flushing ?

Flushing as in how ah?

U need an OBD2 reader to see the code.

not sure about the first GB oil used by the workshop, but after change to SP-III which is i10 spec, problem still there..

oh, then how to solve this??

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o690DovjDAc
7.30 shows ATF flush vs change.
Btw, how many litres of ATF was charged to you ?

This post has been edited by zeng: Jul 9 2017, 10:13 PM

Go to Hyundai SC plug in computer and see what wrong. Sometimes it's just simple sensor problem. If major problem better repair it outside cheaper.

i think they did the flushing, they charged me 3 litres.

and also wanna ask, should old ATF in red color? what happens when it turn brown/black?

okay, do you know if SC charge for checking?

and there is no "check engine light", so still can check the problem with computer?

yes

btw my fren's kia forte got almost same prob like u. first cant reverse.car go neutral even in R. then in D go until 3rd gear it go neutral n back to 1st gear. it all happen after changing battery n the prob was sensor. we tried reset the ecu by unplug the batt but prub still there.we to workshop check using computer n the change sensor. few hundred RM prob solved.

This post has been edited by finalazy84: Jul 9 2017, 10:46 PM

3 liter confirm no flushing la flushing min 7 8 or 9 liter

maybe not flushing, but i think some sort of like suck it out..

https://m.facebook.com/epauto421 , nah contact this see whither he can help you or not.

As mentioned above, 3 litres doesn't involve flushing but merely drain and fill.
Flushing could cause malfunction of valve body, which isn't quite applicable in your case.

You mean it was brown/black ?? ....... as it means the ATF was oxidised due to too long a use.
It's worst if the brown/black ATF has burnt smell .
How many km was the ATF in use ?

This post has been edited by zeng: Jul 9 2017, 11:01 PM

i'm not sure whether there is a burnt smell, my history of ATF change is

new car until between 59-61k km then change once with SP-III, no problem,

then until today, which is around 72k km,

which means,

the old ATF that is removed today is clocked about 10k km

why didn't you use genuine Hyundai Auto Transmission Fluid?

I suggest you flush your auto transmission now and replace with genuine Hyundai branded oil to try

SP III is the correct fluid.
10k km fluid change shouldn't give you this problem.

Check whether fluid level is correct ?






If level is correct, then probably sensor problem or Transmission Control Module (aka computer board) problem.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jul 9 2017, 11:47 PM

First of all, I wouldn't use the so call synthetic fit to all ATF. Every type of ATF has different viscosity modifier and additive which it fit for specific vehicle. How could a 'fit to all' ATF meet the criteria for every transmission. For an example Hyundai SPIII indicates "lock up clutch" on their label so there must be something is different from the other for example dexron III. Btw, isn't all ATF are synthetic?

A dark color drained ATF does not means the ATF is overdue. Most of the time it just that it is doing it job cleaning the system. For example SPIII and Toyota type IV tend to cleans and get dark easier than dexron III. As long as no burnt smell it should be still fine if replaced every 40K km under non severe driving condition. Even Hyundai handbook shows that dark ATF is fine.

I suspect the transmission solenoid is probably stuck. And yes listen to the rest, go get the car scan for AT fault code. An honest work shop would charge around rm40. A cut throat shop would charge about rm80 or above.

I will be visiting hyundai SC tmr, however, is it possible that the foreman did something wrong after filling the new ATF, from what i have observed, the foreman start the car and put into drive and start stepping on gas after filling new ATF, could this do dmg to it, or is it normal procedure?

I will be visiting hyundai SC tmr, however, is it possible that the foreman did something wrong after filling the new ATF, from what i have observed, the foreman start the car and put into drive and start stepping on gas after filling new ATF, could this do dmg to it, or is it normal procedure?

While tire lifted up or on the ground? Stepping hard or mildly press gas pedal?

while the tires are lifted up (whole car), in between hard and mild..

Well a more proper would be shifting all the way from P to L/1 and then to N to P. Stepping just slightly, I mean, not reaching redline and stays there.

Is it overfilled or underfilled? Either one could possibly creates tiny bubbles and hinder shifting quality.



Anyway it might be a coincident that your MAF sensors or MAP sensors dirty or dead (if you can't go high rev even on P or N).

Well it should not do any damage to the AT by doing it. However, there's no need to step on the gas pedal after filling up the ATF.

The proper procedure after filling up new ATF:
1. Start the car
2. Leave the engine running, check the AT dip stick and make sure the ATF is within cold range level. Add more ATF if insufficient. There's no need to shift the transmission as it will never accurate at cold range.
3. Drive the car for 10 to 15 mins. Preferably 80km/h.
4. Leave the engine idle and running for 2 mins at P, then check the dip stick and make sure the ATF level is within hot range.
5. Add more ATF if insufficient. Normally it is about 500ml from low to high at hot range. Repeat step 3 to 5 after adding more ATF.

Isnt hyundai brand notorious for having gearbox problems? I think I heard it first from Youtube mechanic channel when he was doing some livesteam - it was a Q&A session and someone ask about which brand car to buy. He was shifting through a few brand names and when he came to hyundai the only thing raised was the gearbox problem plaguing this brand. Hey, if it comes from a mechanic with more than 4 decades of experience......

TLDR:
In other words, water is wet.

Already go to sc? What's wrong with your gb?