First of all, CUT also covers the proportions of the diamond, such as pavilion angle, crown angle, total depth. When we discussed about cut, we focus on pavilion angle and crown angle mainly because that's where the light gets reflected. Overall, CUT is really the most important factor in determining the light play within the diamond:


Captured from here

Hemera is their own proprietary cut. Standard round brilliant is cut to 57 facets, while Hemera is cut to 101 facets. The main difference is that the one with more facets will have cover the diamond area with "smaller windows" whereby the sparkles will also be smaller, but a lot (because more windows). For the one with lesser facets, it will cover the same diamond area with "bigger windows", whereby the sparkles will be bolder.

It is also said that the extra sparkle (scintillation) will be at the expense of fire and brilliance as well: Read this article by Hearts on Fire. That's why I will prefer to stick with the traditional 57 facets which is well-proven over time to provide the optimum performance in all areas - Scintillation, Fire, Brilliance.

To me, extra facets is really sold by that "one (or few)" company to make it unique that the rest, other diamonds like these includes Gassan 121 (121 facets), Leo Diamonds (66 facets), Allove (81 facets). All said that they are the best, but it is more like a "they cut it, and they said it" scenario, unlike 57 facets, which has been standing there for so long as the standard.

The one thing that makes the diamond to have optimum performance is the proportions and the cut precision. Diamonds with excellent proportions will be called Ideal Cut, while diamonds that are Ideal Cut + excellent optical proportions, we will call it Super Ideal Cut, aka Heart & Arrows. Few reputable vendors for Hearts & Arrows include:
Brian Gavin Diamonds (affiliate link)
WhiteFlash (affiliate link)
High Performance Diamonds
Jann Paul

You may refer to my blog post here.

I got mine from WhiteFlash and I set it locally by iDo Jewellery.

You may read about my experience with WhiteFlash here.

As for Heart Shape Diamonds, I was told that you have to view the actual diamond to see if you like it or not, and it is not as easy to choose as round brilliant. I have replied to another forumer here regarding Heart Shape Diamonds here.

Nevertheless, at the end of the day, it depends on what you like. And remember, everything looks beautiful in the shop. You probably can request the salesperson to view the diamond in the shop's back office, or go view under direct sunlight. It may help you to see which one can perform the best under various environments.s

And yes, certificates are important. Reputable labs include GIA and AGS. Some other labs may have standards that are not that strict, so have to beware.

Good luck and all the best!

This post has been edited by kambingkoh: Jun 8 2017, 11:46 AM

Yes, you are correct.

You can also go to Audreys to do price survey as well. Other overseas websites such as Enchanted Diamonds, Bluenile, JamesAllen, WhiteFlash, Brian Gavin, High Performance Diamonds can also give you a rough estimate of diamond price. Just need to convert the price to RM.

You may noticed that Super Ideals (WhiteFlash A-Cut-Above, Brian Gavin Signature, Black by Brian Gavin, etc) selling price will usually be more expensive than normal Ideals because they take longer time to polish and there will be more diamond wasted to achieve the best optical precision possible.

For normal Ideal GIA, I think Bluenile is a good place to survey. You can consider to focus on their Signature diamond pricing.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Lol. Just set a budget and stick to it bro. If 50-pointers and 70-pointers are too expensive, you can always consider 30-pointers or 40-pointers. There are better ways to spend the money saved.

Time for some affiliate work:

Here are 2 diamonds that I picked from Black by Brian Gavin. Both are affiliate links (which means I will earn some commission if you buy via either links).

USD 2853 + USD 44 shipment (approximate) = USD 2897 (Convert to MYR + GST = RM 13292.04)
0.593 F VS1

USD 2891 + USD 44 shipment (approximate) = USD 2935 (Convert to MYR + GST = RM 13466.40)
0.604 E VS2

I would prefer the F VS1 over the E VS2. You may think that the price is not worth it for that F VS1 because for that price, it is close to the 60-pointer. If we based on market price, yes, it is not worth it because 0.593 is almost there, but not there yet. However, if we go into the details, you will noticed that the F VS1 is actually larger face-up compared to the E VS2.

F VS1 : 5.39 x 5.42 x 3.34
E VS2 : 5.38 x 5.40 x 3.33

The actual reason I will choose 0.593ct over the 0.604ct is because the H&A and idealscope of the 0.593ct looks better than the 0.604ct. But if you want paper value, then 0.604ct maybe a better choice because it is a 60-pointer.

Ring setting price may vary from RM 1000 - RM 3000 and beyond (I assume starting price is more expensive since the carat size is bigger).

You can consider settings from:
1. Memory Jewellery
2. Eumayco
3. iDo Jewellery
4. Frou Frou

Memory Jewellery should provide the best value, but I would recommend you to check with each of them first before making the final decision.

Ok, that's all with my affiliate work.

In case you need any help, even from other jewellers, feel free to let us know.

Master bb100 has explained thoroughly.

It is actually a pretty good advice to buy something visually nice and within budget.

Gf dont give a f, you can always come here and we won't send you fly kite.