First of all, CUT also covers the proportions of the diamond, such as pavilion angle, crown angle, total depth. When we discussed about cut, we focus on pavilion angle and crown angle mainly because that's where the light gets reflected. Overall, CUT is really the most important factor in determining the light play within the diamond:
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Captured from hereHemera is their own proprietary cut. Standard round brilliant is cut to 57 facets, while Hemera is cut to 101 facets. The main difference is that the one with more facets will have cover the diamond area with "smaller windows" whereby the sparkles will also be smaller, but a lot (because more windows). For the one with lesser facets, it will cover the same diamond area with "bigger windows", whereby the sparkles will be bolder.
It is also said that the extra sparkle (scintillation) will be at the expense of fire and brilliance as well:
Read this article by Hearts on Fire. That's why I will prefer to stick with the traditional 57 facets which is well-proven over time to provide the optimum performance in all areas - Scintillation, Fire, Brilliance.
To me, extra facets is really sold by that "one (or few)" company to make it unique that the rest, other diamonds like these includes Gassan 121 (121 facets), Leo Diamonds (66 facets), Allove (81 facets). All said that they are the best, but it is more like a "they cut it, and they said it" scenario, unlike 57 facets, which has been standing there for so long as the standard.
The one thing that makes the diamond to have optimum performance is the proportions and the cut precision. Diamonds with excellent proportions will be called Ideal Cut, while diamonds that are Ideal Cut + excellent optical proportions, we will call it Super Ideal Cut, aka Heart & Arrows. Few reputable vendors for Hearts & Arrows include:
Brian Gavin Diamonds (affiliate link)
WhiteFlash (affiliate link)
High Performance DiamondsJann PaulYou may refer to my blog post
here.
I got mine from WhiteFlash and I set it locally by iDo Jewellery.
You may read about my experience with WhiteFlash
here.
As for Heart Shape Diamonds, I was told that you have to view the actual diamond to see if you like it or not, and it is not as easy to choose as round brilliant. I have replied to another forumer here regarding Heart Shape Diamonds
here.
Nevertheless, at the end of the day, it depends on what you like. And remember, everything looks beautiful in the shop. You probably can request the salesperson to view the diamond in the shop's back office, or go view under direct sunlight. It may help you to see which one can perform the best under various environments.s
And yes, certificates are important. Reputable labs include GIA and AGS. Some other labs may have standards that are not that strict, so have to beware.
Good luck and all the best!
Thanks for the information. Now i know diamond a little better.. so in general, ideal cut is more important right as it gives better shines?