like the other poster mentioned... home work should have been done before you invested in it....

1. Would it fit?
-anything can be made to fit.. even a b18c

2. Is it carbureted? If not, will the wiring for injection cost a bomb?
-no its electronic (iirc the turbo models were electronic.... carb engines with turbos? not a great idea if you ask me... abit complicated/difficult do deal with i guess....)
-oh ya a point.... dont ever bother converting a carb to efi... unless everything is readily available OR you just have lots of time and money to spend

3. Will JPJ decline the endorsement because of a stock turbo charged engine?
-should be no issue.... just mountings might be in question.(if the b6d has the same mounts, should be safe... you can ask jpj... they will get back to you by dis/approving it)

4. Is it even worth it?
-no idea... how much is a b6... anyway... money could have been spent on a dif build if you ask me....
-KF-ZE seems to be a great choice if maintanance is not really an issue

hmmm.... just a thought... why not a 3rd gen prelude with a h22 swap? i really like those things... sleek, sporty and some even have 4ws...

*edit* just realized you have already bought thecar

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Feb 14 2017, 10:09 AM

oh god older than my car..... hi5 we should create an old car club!!

I like it!



if maintanance isnt an issue the v6 should be more interesting..... (tho mods might be very limited)

what jpj limitation?? 1.6>2.0, no issues.... have seen one or 2 converted units around.... (one was a really nice red unit on sale last year, around 20-25k....)

i think prices would be on the low side BUT maintanance... yes high side....

ehhh just read.....

u got the car for 4k?? whats the condition like?
Car (4k)
-i hope its in decent condition
Important repairs (8k)
-i assume the engine swap falls within this scope..
-remember you might want to replace wear and tear bits on a halfcut engine... hoses, belts, turbos, sparkies, gaskets (if not gone)
-dont know if you need a new exhaust system.... of if its got holes in it
-bushings/mounts (this can cost a few k alone)
-absorbers if gone
-pads
Aesthetics (in and outside, around 3-4k)
-now heres where its difficult...
-2k would get you an ok paint job...
-interior, this is where things can get scarry.... dash alright cracks? any missing trim? the trim alone can cost a big bomb... rewrappig the seats a few hundred.... dash bits cost quite alot, steering hu all that.

really depends on how far you want to take it......

i really like the car man.... of that era... one of my fav haha (strangely i dont really like those sharp edged cars, but the prelude is nice)

parts... well... some trim bits difficult.... new bits also susah but halfcut bits are ok... many fellas stockpiled those used wear and tear bits.

you have your points no doubt... some people do a job for the sake of just getting it done or just want to be cheap and put in as little money as possible.... these are things one should never do, asking for trouble.
however a properly researched and built car will come out really nice.

sometimes theres just a sense of joy and satisfaction when building a car for yourself, im sure ts understands that for every 1k he puts into it, he will probably get about 100 out of it. (i hope you understand this ts... its something that might come as a huge blow to you otherwise.)

and yes one thing i agree with you here is that this particular car might not have been a great base to start off with (due to several factors, part rarity and value primarily) but one thing said, if he puts effort into it, it will be unique.



323... not so common nowadays, you will probably stand out....
if you are planning to keep long term, its an alright car..... nothing wrong with it

*edit... careful about the little tiny bits... you might think... senang cari...
its sometimes more susahhhhhh than one might expect....

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Feb 14 2017, 12:19 PM

cannn parts u cari the prelude group.... they have the strings.... (4th gen easier to jaga tho)

that car.. bodykit i x suka... careful bout
1)wirings in these cars... can be dodgy...
2)rust round the windows and boot area (solvable but $$$)
3)window seals side and front and rear... so old.. alot kaput dah

this is true.... applies to me also... half way through... haiyah susah cari... ill wait for it to fall out of the sky into my hands one day

wiralutoons, civics < ehh jangan. still around yo..... most of the really nice ones are parked and hidden away.
most of these fellas own more than 1 car, usually an other car to drive daily. #petrolmahal

i know quite a number of owners who have kept their old cars many years after swapping them.
Admittedly, the guys who do this are those who have really pampered their cars spent tons of money on them (some who i know twice the car's value) and just dont wana sell them (or have tried and cannot sell them for the price they want )... pure dedication is required....
those who were not really dedicated to their cars or do a half past six cheap job? Yeah these guys usually end up selling their cars as half done up projects.
*ts this is why im warning you 1st.... 1) you will not get back whatever you put into the car 2) if you intend to keep it long term, get it done right the 1st time!!!

far as quality mechanics... you have to carilah.... far as vtek mechanics go... there are plenty! evo mechanics... also plenty!!
long as you are willing to spend the $ mechanics are not really an issue. Problem is ppl buy these cars cheap, then dont want to spend much on maintaining them. Their ideas are.. spend 20k on a car... why should they spend another 20k refurbishing them... its another 20k they will never see again!

that might be nais...theres a thread in zth but its talking about old cars not really about restoring em....
anyway ur car belum lagi ancient.....

insurance, actually far as 90's cars go (older than 1990 am not sure) can still get 1st party/comprehensive but its usually only offered to cars whose value is still pretty high. And the premiums are sometimes stupendously high....
try axa..... (i myself am under kurnia, early 90's) i only curse the premiums + loadings....

ahha that was suggestions for himself.... for you, that is a whole can of worms you dont wana try open...

suggest you just keep the current engine for now and do more homework dulu......

also suggest you consider something which is a direct swap, i dont think you are ready for a complicated engine swap. cheaper and less of a headache
remember whole wiring loom must go together.. meter cluster has to fit too.... on the plus side old cars less electrical shenanigans to deal with (not even thinking about clearances, mountings, matching stuff up, shafts)

no offencelah but b16a is way outa your budget.... and again you gona have to make custom mounts, exhausts, wirings... and last but not least... 10/10 illegal.... (not sure about that dif make transplant form tho, but selling off in the future is definitely very difficult)

if u really want a b16a... why not sell off the 323 and get a honda.... not much more expensive, parts are easier see where this is going?

its very simple why ppl swap in engines into beemers, mercs and some toyotas....
1)direct/easy swap ready mounts
2)and the original engines are either pathetic OR difficult/exp to jaga
3)its been done and proven
4)space/practicality

What about Mitsubishi or older Nissan engines?
before you think about this... think practicality.... do you know how much it costs to make custom mounts assuming off the shelf items are not available? (which is why i have been harping about this to you all this while)
and to answer you about the costs of the engine itself...
-4g93t gen1 (gsr) <5k or so, much more if you can even find a good cond truely low milage unit
-4g93t gen2 (gsr) <stupidly these are 7k and up (usually much more)
-4g63t gen1 (gsr) (evo 3 and older) some ppl wana swap em, so u can get them for 5k, demands for the entire engines not that kuat since cannot legally shove into those protons... (also less ppl modifying such old engines)
-4g63t gen2 (gsr) (evo 4 and newer) evo 4 about 6k and up, evo 5 close to 10k, evo 7 and you are looking at 12-15k
-4b11T < dont bother, assuming your car cost 4k, its more than 3x... probably closer to 5x
approximate figs from what i have seen, does include some extra bits you can sell off
*gen 1 and 2 refers to the older and newer ones where the timing belts are terbalik.... gen 2 are commonly referred to as engine terbalik here (gen 2 fits later protons, blm, satria neo, gen2, persona etc while gen 1 fits the older bunch, wira, satria, perdana, putra)

also remember u should replace wear and tear bits before plonking it in, custom mounts costs workmanship which is going to be somewhat mahal especially if its something uncommon... (some things have to be tried and tested before getting it right). add it all in and it will easily cost you 2-3x the cost of just plonking in a simple p&p swap. How much power are you looking to push anyway? if its not alot, dont even bother with these difficult swaps. Only reason you should even consider running off the p&p path is if you are looking for lots of power, cannot afford to maintain your old engine or just want one for the sake of it (if its the 3rd, prepare butloads of cash)

*also very very sure an evo engine will tear your chassis up, that chassis wasn't really built to have that kind of power, an evo 1's torque alone bent my friend's saga back in the day... just took it 1 year (then again back then he ran solid mounts, might have been a factor)

older nissan engines, personally would not recommend, the parts are more expensive (not that you cannot maintain them, there are specialists here, but more exp than the equivalent mitsu)

fyi, actually prices for those cars are abit nuts depending on how much mods have gone into them and their conditions... u can sometimes find them for those figures BUT that you should understand is, its a very old engine that has usually been put through its paces by their owners. not sure if you realize but there are many evo/6a12tt perdanas, gsr protons obtainable for under 10k if you know where to look. With the economy as it is now, tts a buyers market now and most are owners who wana 'lepas tangan' after playing with them. (unfortunately also means usually there's quite abit of wear and tear)

ehh not to ruffle anyone's feathers ya zahidee!!

waa!!!
dedication! ac vents all the fin pecah ahh? far as this goes, if each fin is intact, you can make a makeshift actuator. problem would be getting it out (middle one ok, side ones are a b*tch), most older mitsubishi's have a screw BEHIND . mine i spent 6 hours dropping in a makeshift actuator from the front cause i refused to pull the dash to access them.

eh jangan... leave stock je... put the money into the beemer.... wira use to go market....

haha im sure u dah buat your homework kan....
If u have much $$$ to spend and want buttload of powah 2jz for sure..
Want a fairly easy to jaga powerful engine 1jz (not gona even try tell you its cheap cause the bits inside can cost alot but compared to beemer bits? cheaper)
Want to keep things german then the m54... (this thing is also beastly but roadtax!!!! and after a while.... you will have to come to terms that its easier to squeeze powah from an fi engine)

As far as fitting a 4wd gearbox into a 2wd car, not an issue, i mean look at those evo converted protons, its just a matter of fabricating a blanking plate.

before committing to the project (from the looks of it, pretty sure u are already decided) make sure the B8 would mount up properly and legally and how much work is needed.
This is certainly not an impossible project, there are 323's in malaysia with the conversion, i am just not sure what kind of effort has to be put into building one of if one needs to grease any hands doing so. If you can find other owners who have done this, that would be the absolute best. Its these guys who have converted these cars who would know best.

*edit... looked at some stuff and actually, it looks very straight forward. car was readily available with a bp (basically b8) so the bpt should just bolt in. (really not difficult if yours is already running the 1.8 bp)

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Feb 16 2017, 11:14 AM