that's what i'm looking at first glance , 3.0 ....

yes sir , will check it out when got time ! i'm still reading previous post to understand more about gundam !
thanks for the suggestion

Guys, how much does these two gunpla worth now? Are these rare item? Still sells?

not really since bandai still re-release them once in a while
max price I would say around 20+

I would recommend to paint and frame like this instead


This post has been edited by D-y: Dec 15 2016, 09:26 PM

That is so cool

wooo nice.
this can apply to 1/144 low budget series like below.

i suggest invest in some tools first to enjoy gunpla.. tools + skill get good results.

any yamato kaki here ka?
gwing & gundam.my ada sale yo.
i beli ni yo...no more money to celebrate & having a fine dinner for xmas liao.

What kit is this? Nice. How much?

Psycho Zaku review is now out



http://schizophonic9.com/re4/mg_psychozaku.html

This post has been edited by nazrul90: Dec 17 2016, 07:20 PM

lastexile
rm140
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10363774

Guys, I just started with Gunpla again after been hiatus for 10+ years

Previously I never had an experience with dry transfer sticker and top coat. So I have a few questions to ask before I start with my MG Strike RM ver.

1. Normal MG (non KA ver) use dry transfer am I correct? It is easy to make a mistake when applying this sticker?

2. Top coat should be applied before or after panel lining + applying sticker?

Thanks

BTW, Litt Tak Store at Sg. Wang still available? Its been a while since the last time I go to Sg.Wang so I'm not sure if the store is still there or not.

This post has been edited by The Red Giant Warrior: Dec 19 2016, 11:23 AM

1. Dry transfer is a pain in the ass, the bigger they are the harder to get it right. Its the easiest among the 4 types of decals/stickers to be ruined while applying. Look up tutorial in youtube to c how u can apply this.

2. Depends. Top coat has 3 kinds of finishes, gloss, semi gloss, and flat. The optimum surface to panel lining and decaling is gloss, if u plan to apply it straight on to bare plastic u dun nid to coat anything beforehand cuz gunpla bare plastic is gloss enough to begin with. If u prime, paint or sand ur kit then u should gloss coat it 1st before panel lining and decaling. At any rate, u must coat it after panel lining and decaling with whatever finishing coat u wan.

bare plastic --> panel line / decals --> whatever finishing coat u wan
bare plastic --> sand / prime / paint --> gloss coat --> panel line / decals --> whatever finishing coat u wan

Of cuz the above is the optimum way of doing things, its kinda time consuming and cost alot to do so. I kinda take shortcut whenever i can, up to u to experiment on where u wan to take shortcuts.

Saw a debate that gloss used for water decal to avoid air bubbles going in between decals compare to matte, but is semi-gloss alright for water decals as it didn't get mentioned in the debate i read

Ok thanks mate for the advice

Btw, anyone know if Litt Tak store at Sg. Wang still available?

Semi gloss is still not optimum, anything but gloss is not optimum really but ultimately its up to own preference. This is not a major things that would ruin ur kit per se.

I've done countless water slide decals on all sorts of surface smoothness, I can tell you it doesn't matter.

http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?sc...2-S001&page=top

Digimon Reboot Omegamon finally rerelease.
Will buy again for another collection

i use semi gloss all the time and it does work
but realise the large decal might something have small silver/grey spot, which is what mentioned in the debate, but can sometime get rid of it with mark softer, only the really large one (usually those marking on shoulder with logo) is harder

I rarely use Mr.Mark Softer as I find Mr.Mark Setter is more than enough to do the job right.

so no silvering/greying issue on the decals?
something like this on the wording 0823


This post has been edited by TheEvilMan: Dec 19 2016, 07:22 PM