congrats on new thread

crap, seems like the exchange rate hitting the price of gunpla quite badly
some of the newer stocks has gone up

Yeah true, those price not seems to be cheap, they just want to clear old stock with price still higher than outside shop.

But the thing I can't understand what's different between buy from Litt tat and outside shop? Other than the seal box? Because still many ppl buy with litt tat with those high price?

gwing xmas sale.
mg destiny rm120 jer...

tight budget only can get anubis jer.
fuuyoh..tinggal satu kotak jer. rm200...fast yo.

i beli anubis & piggy tank.
no more budget to get hg The end gundam. 

Currently at osaka.... any shop you guys recommend?

A kit tht comes with a shelf...  Hmmm
Okay!
😁😂😆😅😄🤣

Seriously doubt it. Sazabi Ver Ka takes up half the shelf, as I was trying to pose it and Nu fighting in 1 shelf, and it did go in but just barely with Nu. That tank won't fit, but if you take it off it might fit while taking up the full shelf.

Why bother? Just buy an aquarium.

interested in getting a basic one to start with , saw RX-78-2 quite interesting

1. Dry transfer is a pain in the ass, the bigger they are the harder to get it right. Its the easiest among the 4 types of decals/stickers to be ruined while applying. Look up tutorial in youtube to c how u can apply this.

2. Depends. Top coat has 3 kinds of finishes, gloss, semi gloss, and flat. The optimum surface to panel lining and decaling is gloss, if u plan to apply it straight on to bare plastic u dun nid to coat anything beforehand cuz gunpla bare plastic is gloss enough to begin with. If u prime, paint or sand ur kit then u should gloss coat it 1st before panel lining and decaling. At any rate, u must coat it after panel lining and decaling with whatever finishing coat u wan.

bare plastic --> panel line / decals --> whatever finishing coat u wan
bare plastic --> sand / prime / paint --> gloss coat --> panel line / decals --> whatever finishing coat u wan

Of cuz the above is the optimum way of doing things, its kinda time consuming and cost alot to do so. I kinda take shortcut whenever i can, up to u to experiment on where u wan to take shortcuts.

I've done countless water slide decals on all sorts of surface smoothness, I can tell you it doesn't matter.

I rarely use Mr.Mark Softer as I find Mr.Mark Setter is more than enough to do the job right.

As far as I remember, not even once. Probably because I really drain the water completely.

that one is decal paper quality.
this type of decal is old (store too long) & low quality, it need to dim very long time in water baru boleh kluar.
my old decal have this issue..but the latest decal dont have this issue.

Not sure about zaku. I built MG 00 7swords and RG 00 raiser. I have to say MG is more complex than RG in my case. The legs itself is different or i should say more mechanics.

The only difficulties for me in building a RG is assembling the tiny little parts and applying tiny little stickers...

yea, havent try PG yet. There are 2 kits in my list for now: MG Providence and PG Phenex... maybe will get MG EX-s too...