I don't know.
The next time you're at that corner again, you can check if the VSA shows on the instrument panel. Then tell us about it.
But don't take your eyes off the road too long!!!

Yeah, I too just saw it just now. (Wanted to post here. You beat me to it )

I hope this ohioflyer guy is not just putting up a joke.
I began to doubt when he apologized for his/her English which was just fine (actually perfect) and not difficult to read at all.
Anyway, if it is true that the cause is the CVT trans .. I am very surprised.
And to replace the whole CVT trans is a huge undertaking. (Not sure I want to do it also )

I didn't bring up this warm-start grinding noise to SC in my first service.
I think we should all bring this up to SC from now on.
Don't know what's the long-term effects from this issue.

So sorry to hear this.

1st .. make a police report fast.

If your insurance premium now has got no NCB, then make a claim. Your NCB benefits will only be delayed by 1 year.
If got NCB, see how much is the damage then decide.

As for which SC to go to .. check out Honda Malaysia's website for its Body & Paint Centres.

I think you can go to see the SC manager to make official complaint.
I doubt SC so rajin until test from Bangi to Kajang 5 times. lol
Wait 1 week then check got saman or not.

Pictures later ok?

I'm trying to get the whole picture here ..

Odometer at 7-8k .. you did Service A (ie oil-life service) and SC reset Maintenance Minder to B.

Odometer at 10k .. you did Mileage Service but SC did Service A again even though oil life has 6k plus left and then SC reset Minder back to A.

It could be that they expect you to come back at about 17k and again at 20k.
At 17k, they will do Service A.
At 20k, they will do Mileage Service & Service B!

If like this .. I think this SC trying to do more business la!
You cannot skip Service B (ie. change oil & filter)

I would not follow this kind of service schedules.

This post has been edited by PixelDroid: Nov 24 2016, 11:39 AM

Stop banging your head .. haha

Ok .. assuming what I pictured above is the actual situation, you may want to consider the following:

When your oil life ends maybe at around 17-18k, go do Service B (ie. change oil & filter).
Photostat the service invoices you did at 7-8k and 10k. Show & explain to SC bcos your Maintenance Minder is now at A. Minder should remain at A after this Service B (important).
As for the 20k Mileage Service .. you have the option to do together or come back at 20k.
If come back at 20k, make sure only do 20k Mileage Service (ie. not Service A or B again).

isr25 did ask to see your 10k service invoice. Can show ar?

Alamak !!!!!

This post has been edited by PixelDroid: Nov 24 2016, 02:56 PM

This invoice is at 7k service. Why change filter? Also, I see the 10k Mileage Service already done here?

Also, you said you did service at 10k. We wanted to see this 10k service invoice.

Or did I got the wrong picture?

This post has been edited by PixelDroid: Nov 24 2016, 03:05 PM

oic .. this invoice is the service at 10k.

So, I think the situation is this ..

Odometer at 7k .. you did Service A (ie. changed oil) only and SC reset Maintenance Minder to B.

Odometer at 10k .. you wanted only Mileage Service but SC did Service B (ie. changed oil & filter) also even though oil life has 6k plus left and then SC reset Minder back to A.

Today .. SC reset Minder to B.

You have 2 options:

1. Reset Minder to A now
I think you can reset to A yourself in the HU. Anyone here thinks otherwise?
If choose this option, do the reset today because anymore delay will result in wrong oil-life calculations.
With this, your next service will be Service A (ie. change oil only).

2. Leave Minder at B
With this, your next service will be Service B (ie. change oil & filter).

Decision is yours to make ..

Come to think of it, since your Service Booklet would have already recorded A & B as done (i.e. rubber stamped) and the next service is A, I would choose Option 1. Less confusion in the future. (Check your service booklet.)

Again, the decision is yours to make.

This post has been edited by PixelDroid: Nov 25 2016, 12:02 AM

I use RainX too.

Now only change aircon compressor. Waited so long.

Yes, they are the same.
Engine oil treatment should not be used during engine break-in period which is the first few thousand km.
Generally, if used during the first oil change at about 10k km, should be ok.

You bought your car from Sumber Auto in PJ?
I did and they gave 6 free engine oil treatment to be used when changing oil.
I think the SC know what they are doing. (But no harm questioning them when the time comes)
However, I have not decided whether I will use this free engine oil treatment or not. I will decide at my first Service A.

This post has been edited by PixelDroid: Nov 25 2016, 01:03 AM

There has been much discussion here on 1.5T vs 1.8 maintenance cost and also worries about the cost of maintaining a turbo engine.

Let's see the facts as stated in our Quick Guide Manual pages 18-21.
Below is the schedule for parts replacement. It is the same for both 1.5T & 1.8 except that 1.5T follows the Maintenance Minder for Engine Oil & Oil Filter:-

1. Engine Oil - every 10,000 km or 6 months
2. Oil Filter - every 20,000 km or 12 months

3. Air Filter - every 30,000 km or 1.5 years
4. Dust Filter - every 30,000 km or 1.5 years
5. CVT Fluid - every 40,000 km or 2 years
6. Brake Fluid - every 60,000 km or 3 years
7. Iridium Spark Plugs - every 100,000 km or 5 years
8. Fuel Filter - every 110,000 km or 5.5 years
9. Engine Coolant - every 200,000 km or 10 years.

Other facts on 1.5T vs 1.8:
- 1.5T lower fuel consumption
- 1.5T lower road tax (RM90 only)
- 1.8 lower insurance premium
- 1.8 cheaper tyre replacement cost.

Now you can make an informed decision.

To me, the turbo would most probably be only slightly more than the non-turbo in terms of maintenance costs.
Depending on the driving style, the turbo could even be cheaper from fuel savings.
And looking at the maintenance schedule above, the frequency of parts replacement is very low. Turbo looks affordable to me.

Ya, so true. Feel turbo rush, forget $$ dy.

See the one for the 1.5T again properly.
The Oil Filter is every 10k instead of 20k. Don't know why.
And the Parts total is wrong. That's why.

I think they know about the grinding sound issue la. Even their Japan factory know la.
Owners in US complained so long dy. This is the only unresolved issue that worries me.
(I have my own theories about the sound but I'm not ready to put it up here yet. Still doing some reading on it.)

The click click issue that you used to have ... I think your car ran out of clicks haha ..

You said after operating the wipers, the glass will have oily rainbow residue.
Then try cleaning the windscreen again with lots of normal car wash shampoo and check again but don't operate the wipers. Maybe the wipers have the oily stuff which gets transferred to the windscreen.

If still cannot, I suggest you go to a detailer shop.
A good detailer will test on a small section first before doing the whole windscreen. (Important & Recommended)

If either one above is successful, then don't operate the wipers. Better to first change the wipers' blade (i.e. the refills which are cheaper) to be safe. Then wash the wipers ( and windscreen) thoroughly with normal shampoo after changing.

Good luck ..

Lighting a bit low.
The wrap is matte black?
Did you also wrap the plastic part (below Honda logo) or just the chrome grille?

Looks nice.

Now looks even better.

I'm assuming it's matte finish.
If accidentally applied some wax on it, do you think the wax effect can be removed.
I always send my car for waxing (No coating). Sometimes some wax accidentally applied onto plastic parts also.