Nirox P3800 modded should do the trick

The problem with chilled air is the issue of condensation which leads to insulation work which is messy, hard to reverse, and if anything kaputs...a whole crap of warranty claim issues. Someone tried that before but ended up having too much hassle he just sold it all away

P3800 mod to keep it cool. Simply just rip out the back cover (which is keeping all the darn heat inside) and use proper brass barbs

Like I said, someone did it before....waaaaaayyyyyyyy long ago and it was one hell of a mess since silica based dielectric grease is one messy goop and expensive for the amount your getting. Just look at what ARJ did for his DI pot prep job. And if you're intending to just drop the ambient to below normal, why bother with the hassle and added energy costing when you can use a portable air cooler and enjoy the breeze too. Right?

Not true, my suggestion is because I know what a P2800 can and cannot do and what it CANNOT do is counter the graviational flow resistance+radiators flow restriction which would cause, you guessed it right, latent heat stuck in block. Water temperature in this case is irrelevant and tbh, the P2800 has outlived it's usefulness what with that 1' long pump to block tubing and E8400 which funnily enough on air runs hotter then my outdated E6400

A cautionary tale of what happens when every kid gets overboard and becomes a blind faith fanboy. They drove Marci, Cathar and MaXXXracer away because of this

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=202355
and in many ways, the real experts of WC in LYN have gone away thanks to similiar cases here

This post has been edited by almostthere: Sep 27 2008, 05:08 PM

Anyone wants to offload their D4 to me? Willing to take in to care here

This post has been edited by almostthere: Sep 30 2008, 07:41 PM

bro...I see D4 no more liao...sell to me can?

Firstly darksythe, you need to use those battery water/pharmaceutical grade purified water for your flushing and dilution of whatever dissolvents you choose to use. But prior to that, why not use the old trick of removing calcification on battery terminal contacts on cars by pouring in steaming hot water in and draining it out. Usually that sorts the hard one's out. Then after that, use the normal method which DOES involves hours of soaking and shaking about to make sure it reaches every part of the rad. Finally flush one more time using that purified water

LOL, those who have been at it long enough using tap water only would know what to do by now. BTW bro, you're in which part of Puchong? should meet up one day

leak test leak test leak test....24 hours....that's the noobie rule

It's normal laa for watercooling since you're measuring on die not the thermal probe itself. My C2D at stock clock 35C load ambient 24C

Plain filtered water

I somehow recognise that restop from somewhere...

OT: Palit's PCB is non-AIB spec compliant but based on reviews, run much cooler and consume less wattage


This post has been edited by almostthere: Apr 18 2009, 11:46 PM

still fiddling ghetoo style ka tampoi?