xtracooljustin,

"Im experiencing a problem while spraying paint on my model.

i bought this Tamiya TS-XX spray can. Even though i shake it very well and spray lightly, after a while, im getting lots of bubbles on da surface of the area i sprayed. if i dun burst or even out those bubbles, i will get hideous craters when it dries.

so is there anything wrong wif my technique or is it a defect of the spray can?

anybody experience this b4? "

what is the surface that you were spraying on and the bubbles form after how many coats? How long did you wait in between coats?

Sometimes it helps to wash the plastic first (with dishwashing liquid) before spraying.

This post has been edited by nlik: Mar 29 2007, 10:12 AM

I get this bubble problem initially with the rm5.90 dove spray paints. The cause was that i stayed a tiny bit too long on once spot. So i avoided this by sweeping my hands faster, start the spraying before the plastic and finish after passing the plastic.

But my use of the Tamiya TS has been trouble free. If only they were sold cheaper than those RM29.90, I would buy more. Got once , the offer was for Rm19.90 per can. I grabbed a few. Anyone has lubang on getting these cheaP?

But when buying this have to be careful not to confuse the TS and PS sprays.

Zeta green divers ,03, white,pink zeta I saw it at Diamond Comics 6th Floor,Sg wang Plaza, selling for Rm200 last friday lor. Old or new news i dunno about the others here lar .

This post has been edited by nlik: Apr 2 2007, 12:46 PM

Stickers:
1. Clean the surface of the plastic.
2. Use tip of knife to flip an edge of the sticker up.
3. Put your finger on the sticker where your knife is. So the tiny edge of the sticker is between your finger and knife.
4. Then slowly pull it away from the backing sheet.
5. Place the sticker on the plastic.
6. Remove the knife and apply pressure on the whole area (sound's like foot massage )

This is so that you will have minimum contact with the bottom glue part of the sticker.


Water transfer decal:
1. Clean the surface of the plastic
2. Cut decal out + the paper backing. (it's stuck to each other anyway)
3. Get a bowl of warm water. (if too hot, it will cause the decal to curl up)
4. Soak the decal in the water for maybe 20 seconds.
5. Transfer the decal+paper backing on to the plastic surface.
6. pull off the paper backing while holding the decal in place.
7. use a cotton bud to soak excess water.
A. If the decal is on a curved surface, then use mr. mark softener.

Dry transfer:
This is the other type of decal that needs to be rubbed in.
1. Clean the surface of the plastic.
1. cut out the decal from the sheet.
2. use a cellophane tape and stick the cut out decal on the cellophane tape. Make sure that surface is the one that is not having the decal. You can obviously see which side has the actual decal.
3. stick the decal +cellophane on the surface.
4. Use the blunt back of your knife or pen and rub on the back of the decal. Once you are sure you've rubbed in the whole of the decal, peel off partly the cellophane and the decal should be there. If some parts are not on the plastic, then repaste the cellophane and decal down again to rub once more.
5. Once done, remove completely the cellophane and clear plastic backing that held the decal.
6. Optional Clear coat to lock it in.

This post has been edited by nlik: Apr 5 2007, 01:35 PM

give you abit of direction lor.
Use drybrushing with paint, use Tamiya Enamel paint, nib pencil carbon, crayon, joss stick.... Up to your creativity to age your gundam. Maybe look for weathering articles on military models,tanks and airplanes.

Ya, I wanna get the Zeta -3.It will match my MKII that I am painting with lacus clyne colors. Placed my order already with aunt lenny at endah parade, probably by next week I will get it.



This post has been edited by nlik: Apr 11 2007, 12:37 PM


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Her price is competitive 1 lar, no worries. Can't say that everything is cheaper or more expensive as it's usually model by model basis. Just shop around and find your own best price.

Her z 03 stock for that hasn't arrive lor, since she told me target is next week, so don't really know the final price yet.

But I have bought several from her, from sg wang and TM, graffity and 1 more on lowyat 1st floor ( that lowyat shop atm selling hi nu for RM240 + action Base which I think is not bad of an offer).

Diamond comic moved to 6th floor sg wang, have to walk up the few steps on the corner, but i think the guy boss is abit proud.

This post has been edited by nlik: Apr 7 2007, 11:00 PM

For me it's:
a.a.whether u guys snap fit everything then only color it,

I assemble most of the parts 1st. Except the one's that i think would be difficult to take off or not necessary yet. I want to get the whole picture and also enjoy the assembly process.

This is important so that I can see how the parts fit, turn it around 360 degrees and look for things i like and don't like. If don't like then I'll think if i want to change or do something about it.

Sometimes I can see, this part is blocked by another, so I don't really need to paint as it can't be seen anyway.

Later will break the model apart into pieces again and paint, spray,putty, add stuff, But in my mind, i know how the parts are related to each other and it helps. If I putty or glue this part, later can't fix in the PC-XX or something. So the order you do the task is important.

If I am unsure, then I will spray on a similar plastic, use the leftover tree as a test and go on.

Since most of the tasks is actual handwork (cut,saw,sand,paint,mix,spray,draw....), you have to learn by experimenting, trying and doing. Then only you will realize eh like this, or hmm.. like that.Ooh..

At the same time keep reading , research and look at how others do their thing.

Same as you can't learn to drive by reading a book but never turning a steering wheel before.

So maybe QuackSilver, the starter of this thread can accept urls of galleries, tutorials online and put up on 1st page?

Or like duke_hunt mentioned, start another thread that strictly only lists links for gundams, transformers, military models and others.