This method just reveal ur alternator is not giving enough voltage at idle. A car like Saga the alternator voltage will always >14.2V when car in idle with aircond running and lamp turn ON and remained constant regardless of engine RPM.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Aug 5 2017, 10:17 PM

IAFM manifold part+labour only 600+ at Proton SC, i just changed this year. The SC u went try to con you.

Even 13" to 14" will loss some comfort, confirm 14" to 15" will loss even more.

Just change my BLM driver side power window switch to auto up down, bought from Lelong for RM36 only. Damn it i should have discover this long time ago. It so handly.

https://www.lelong.com.my/oem-proton-saga-b...7-01-Sale-I.htm

It will just stop in such scenario

Yes tested in my BLM ady. Slightly lift/press like normal switch, full lift and press will trigger auto for both up and down. When reach the end it will emit slight click sound and the operation will stop. Plus it is real cheap.

There are 4 catches over the switch holder. Tool used philips screw driver and unused credit card, you have to figure out how to open it. It won't be difficult if you are DIYer. If u can't do just ask assesorries shop do for u, won't be expensive i believe.



This post has been edited by coolkwc: Aug 29 2017, 09:05 AM

What car u driven throughout a year?

Suspect you get use to the car with better NVH and feel bad in Saga now.

Hahaha...XM2 quieter than CC5? No way.

Watch out ur XM2 in damp road, it will give u surprise when u brake. This tyre can skid even in dry road if it clocked pass 50k mileage. Used it before, thread stay alot longer than CC5 (70k still left plenty vs 40k almost botak in CC5) but totally useless since the grip is not there anymore, the rubber just simply turn into rock stone.

Michelin is good tyre, just that this XM2 is an overhype junk, the perceive goodness just a placebo effect due to the premium price charged, nothing in terms of performance.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 18 2018, 04:05 PM

Huge different? Placebo purely. It just the sense of throttle sensitivity change

TB is just a device to let the air go into combustion chamber, it will still let in the same amount of air inlet compare to ori TB provided the max opening diameter are the same, ur car engine still the same, doesn't nean it will give more power. Oversensitive TB however will have negative effect on FC, as it lost linearity/narrow open at low throttle input (this is how you feel car become powerful now), this is how those car (Axia) that can claim EEV by doing the opposite (now driver feel the car is underpower because need more throttle input to achieve the same amount of 'powerful' throttle opening)

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Apr 21 2019, 01:16 PM

It just a reverse switch KO, get it change under 150.

Last time i used to think fog lamp can actually increse road visibility during night but end up knowing it is just for other ppl to see u, no help for increase front brightness at all.

So the question is why u need fog lamp?
I would rather chnage the halogen bulb to LED bulb rather than add on fog lamp.

Mind u, fog lamp cover will deteriote and become yellowish much faster if you open it often due to high heat trapped (55w bulb) in small.enclosure. if u want to avoid it to turn yellowish, use LED bulb rather than halogen bulb.

[quote=iskazulka,Apr 24 2019, 10:42 AM]
up to you to decide.
i choose mahihi because i knew him better. so i trust and also very convenient to go to his workshop than go to other places.
if go other places, sure kena slaughter or kena tipu already, or not up to your expectations.
keyword is don't rush like me ada wang straight do, why? because after 7 years owning saga, i already fedup with saga NVH. others say change to better tyre will help, i would say the hell because even persona with CC5 tyres also worst. NVH only can start improve first with soundproofing. changing better tyre is ok you say want to improve on braking power, but if you want to improve on NVH, i advise to to go for soundproof.

my 2 cents.

if you want, try to set appointment with mahihi on saturday, then i can try to arrange to meet you there also.

[/quotee]

I beg to differ.

Sound proof is a blackhole, ur ear will adapt the noise reductionvery fast and effect loss.

I almost fully soundproof my car (heavily Soundproof), it only improve perhaps 50%, and it improve substantially when i change to CC6 with slightly higher tyre profile.

Like what u said, i also fed up with Saga NVH, no matter how much u do, it won't get close to any C or D segment car. Trust me becos i just chnage to Nissan Teana recently, the NVH is 200% better than my fully SP saga.

Our Saga mostly is tyre/road roar during cruising which i believe is largely contirbuted by suspension and cabin geometry, which is often limited and ignored in B segment car.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Apr 24 2019, 12:15 PM

What if i tell u sometimes i feel my Teana NVH is not up to my expectation although it claimed the best among Jap D-segment (Camry, Accord)?

Haha, SP is about expectation, i think my expectation is too high maybe (i wish my car silent as my bed room at night)

Anyway, if u guys really want to do it, think you want 'airy' ambient or 'pressure' ambient.

If u put too much deadening/soundproof, u will isolate all the air noise intrude into the car however u just heard all the low nodes noise such as engine drone and road roar which is difficult to be tamed by SP material, you will feel very 'pressure' in long run and this is what we called 'pressurised ambient'. My Saga actually having this issue. In good paved road it feel really silent, however it will become boomy when engine RPM more than 3k or in rough road surface.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Apr 24 2019, 03:08 PM

That one long time ago ady lo. My last soundproof done back in 2014 Aug, why i can remember so clearly? Because i just resigned that time and got 2 weeks window before go for new job, so i spent a whole week to strip out and SP myself.

My biggest problem is the engine drone, 1st gen manual RPM 3600 @ national.speed limit, imagine how to live with it from JB to Ipoh, thats whooping 500+km per trip.

To tame down those low frequnecy road roar, u need something soft to absorb, either by suspension which is not possible or softer tyre. CC6 will be the good choice, and if u still using stock 14 inch rim, use 185/65/14 sidewall profile rather than 60, that 5% sidewall thickness will act as a cushion to absorb the noise. Trust me, the different of road roar is night and day.

Anyway i found out another national car is the biggest 'winner' in terms of NVH, which is Axia and Bezza. I owned an Axia as well and the stock NVH is hopeless especially the road roar is similar to wind down windows during driving.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Apr 25 2019, 08:07 PM

Talking about low freq road roar of Saga, the noise isn't as simple as coming from Tyre which is from bottom to top. Tyre roar is mostly high frequency due to friction and contact slap of the tyre thread to the road surface, but low freq roar is mainly due to suspension and cabin geometry as well.

1st the low frequency vibration during tyre cntact with tiny bump (look for road surface carefully if u have chance) transmit through suspension to the strut and main frame. The larger ur rim/harder suspension the worst u will get and ur whole car then resonant with low frequnecy. The enclosed cabin now become a echoeing chamber of the low freq noise.

Now try to apply audio science here. You will get maximum Low freq(bass) response when u put ur subwoofer at the corner/edge of the room or u sit at the edge/corner of ur room. This is how ur ear deaf by the low freq road roar in the car. Saga is a small B-segment car with limited cabin space, basically all the passenger is sitting very close to the edge and corner of the cabin which is now dominated by all sort low freq road roar. Don't believe? Try to move ur head to the centre of the cabin or move ur car seat backward to close to the centre of the cabin during driving, u will be amazed by how much those low freq roar attenuated.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Apr 28 2019, 11:38 AM

You are not fully wrong, but u should specify Gaga (pre-VVT) is crap in terms of NVH, that's it.

Advise u not emphasize too much on steering sway during hand free issue. Every car will have the tendency to that due to our road nature is either lean left or right even it looks flat.

Mostly our road is lean to left and those experience foreman normally will tune ur left side tyre camber to more negative than right side to cater for steering sway issue. U should just leave it there as long as it not tends to pull either to left /right and u don't need huge effort to counter the pull during normal driving.

Guys, what if the rear emit 'klok klok' noise when go over speedline or patch surface? Rear absorber just changed 2 years only. Previously only left rear, now right rear also got.