Hi guys, want to ask. Recently at the back passenger seat on the left side the floor and mat is soaked wet after driving in the rain. I suspect the rainwater seep through the undercarriage to the floor. Any idea where is the possible area where the water can enter? Can I check it myself or need to go to SC?

Hi Guys, my Saga FLX rear lamp no light when press on break. At first thought it was the break-lamp burned out. But, technician said is the 'mother-board' for the lamp got problem. Just change that 'mother-board' will do, no need change the whole lamp.

Anyone know where can i buy and get it fix in KL or selangor?
That workshop do not have stock and need to order which takes 3-5 days. I am going to outstation soon and i hope to get it fix ASAP. Any suggestion?

then changed to shiberu already. 

we know we know... no need tell whole world...

you posted R35 best at here u think others wont know meh ? 

I have not service my Saga FL Aircond before since 2011. Should I do so even though it's still blowing cold air and didnt give me any problem.

I think my IAFM giving me some sound now, should change whole thing new or just repair it. Saw a alot video on youtube with number to contact to fix it.

Same as mine. The clock is basically f**cked up.

First few months after I bought my car, I tried hard to find ways to fix it but no solution unless change the whole dash meter (maybe).

 

I plan to replace my spark plug..when the workshop remove the ignition coil the rubber broken..now he telling me need to replace new ignition coil n need to open the engine to do it? By the way I never repair n the car is moving normal is it safe?

ANyone using works engineering crank pulley for saga? Any review?

Hi guys, e throttle controller n e manage, which one suitable for CVT if I plan to get one of this to reduce the slow responce during pickup? Thx.

It sound like Im driving a diesel car engine, where its noticeable when im sitting inside the driver seat. When car is moving.

Can you share with me how do you DIY fixed it?

i am interested to know what light mod can be done to increase FC.. going to mod my dad car

Hi members,

Recently changed brake pad and rotor to performance type including brak oil flush and change new one..

But the brake feel still same like original one.. supposed to be improved than previous one..

Any idea what should i do?

Thank you sifu for the info, appreciate it much 

Reason i change to performance rotor bcoz original rotor wore out ready so thats why changed it together.. Setting as per below

IMP formula brake pad - red colour
AR Racing cross drilled + slotted rotor
Millers dot 4 brake oil

Perhaps i should try braided hose as next upgrade.. or do i check my brake pump because car is 5++ years old and never checked it before..

Hi all,

How does worn wheel bearing noise sounds like? My car got sound like "whoooo whoooo" whenever turn.. but not in straight road.. And this sound comes during cold start only..

Any sifu can help

Hi joe. What's tires are you using? The different tire compound setup

my plugs are now okay, some mods has been done to avoid the stuck-ness

after it was stuck, i tried to pull it off regardless of the damage as i thought it was still new it would not melt. in the end only the bottom part was stuck but the rubber was still soft enough to be pulled out. i put some silicone spray at the end of the coil boot to reduce the chance for it to be stuck again

then i remembered a post i read way back where titanrev changed his coils to tmworks. the culprit was the the inner rubber boot that grip the spark plugs tightly.  it was adviced to cut the inner boot if im not mistaken *someone please link the post* or upgrade the boots to tmworks ignite rev if we can afford it

another one is to use a lower heat rage spark plug, i used iridium IT20s when it got stuck. ironically the original NGK copper plugs also cause it to stuck. hence the problem was the inner rubber boot

ill post some pictures of the modified boot when i get back home. so far after the mod, removing the spark plugs is far easier than before

okay, here is the story of my broken ignition coil boot...
i knew i have to replace all 4 of them since two are already torn for the top part. also my valve cover is leaking so a replacement is due as well. without an air compressor it is hard to blow out the bottom part of the coil which grips tightly to the spark plug, also using pliers might make it come out but i didnt dare to. off to the workshop for the replacement

it took a while for the mechanic to pull just 1 of them out, below is how it looked afterwards
[attachmentid=9828673]
after all 4 had been replaced, the spark plugs were replaced as well. here is how the old one looks, cant remember which plug comes from which cylinder
[attachmentid=9828677]

after that i went home and tried to check the plugs again, but the newly installed ignition coils were torn, again...at least not all of them. and i got lucky as the silicone glue used to glue the rubber to the plastic tube of the coil is not that strong, therefore it can be glued back if i want to.
i thought long and hard, almost at the point of contacting TM Works Malaysia for a set of Ignite REV ignition coils, then i remembered that the bottom rubber was the one that is holding the spark plugs tight.
i read back a post where titanrev to use an art knife to cut the bottom part so it will not hold the plugs too tight. so i did. below is the breakdown of the new ignition coil
[attachmentid=9828683]

note that these coils are not original proton, the silicone glue is not that strong as the original, but it does its job as an ignition coil. fingers crossed it will not melt due to the excessive heat.
i pried off all the bottom rubber of the coils. the picture below shows the rubber bottom, the middle one is when it is turned inside-out, the last one is after the removal of the inner rubber
[attachmentid=9828689]
[attachmentid=9828690]
[attachmentid=9828691]

the valve cover gasket is nothing special, just some silicone gasket to the valve covers, and some RTV sealant to seal it. below are some pics of the internals of my engine. mileage 76k
[attachmentid=9828695]
[attachmentid=9828696]
[attachmentid=9828697]

put it all back together, add some silicone spray at the end so the spark plugs will not stick/easier to pull the plugs out. pray that it will serve miss s for a long time

thank you to this forum and its members for the ideas and contribution to our ageing car

Without your idea n tests id probably traded it in for another car...or probably an engine swap

How to improve the brake system?

i am having problems starting my car every morning, after cranking it dies. took about more than 6 attempts then it sputters to life. i suspect is fuel pump, but:

-fuel pump is pumping as i wait for the noise to disappear then start the car
-battery voltage is 12.3v, didnt read when it was cranking. after it eventually starts voltage is 14.something so should be okay?
-cranking is strong, no weird issues
-starter motor? dont think so as one time car started "sputteringly" then it died
-spark plugs were changed when i did the coils and cam gasket
-fuel...95 or 97 still same

fuel pressure?
no to change car as got sentimental value. haha

i have...when it was around 40-50k if im not mistaken, but with an oem one. what if it still persists?

77000++

I have checked. Based on the photo, looks like there is no anti roll bar...😅😅

Long time no post, sharing my new upgrade
[attachmentid=10226027]