depend on u...there is risk on replacement
keep in mind that you may get around 200++ shot on replacement compare to 300++ shot on original

i have 2 ori, 3 replacement.....when using grip, original will be in body....while i swap battery...if any urgent event shoot, i won't lose any moment to exchange battery

replacement= 2 wasabi, 1 from YL

Uh bro.. He means YL camera not YL brand I think..

Seeing this status makes me anxious. Can't wait, can't wait but seems so long to go.



Luckily my business trip will not come in 2 weeks time. Else I don't know when I can play with it.

Hi guys! i just got myself an X-T10. Will be hanging around this thread for more info and knowledge from you guys and hoping to learn some stuff here. 

u mean x t 10 dropped in price?
i saw lazada selling 5.8k xt 10 with kit lens

I want to let go my 18-55 kit lens and 56 F1.2. Don't know what is the market price

can refer my Instagram (link in signature) for examples of pics 56mm produce, and to answer your question it suits best for portraiture. If you like such pics it is highly recommended to get it as it's really hard to find ppl selling their 56mm, at least for now. 

Indoor or outdoor?

If outdoor, things are easiler. Just set the SS as auto and dial in your desired Aperture. Usually bright sunlight will give u enought SS for fast moving action.

With indoor, you will most likely need a flash. I found that, with flash, I can set the SS as low as 1/60 and I can freeze action such as levitation shots. Hope this help 

You might have read somewhere where there is a rule of thumb, your SS shoukd not be less than your focal length. Say example, you use 50mm(75mm Full frame equivalent) , then u should use 1/80, or more. But this is principle only enough for you to do handheld shot to compensate camera shake, not fast enough to freeze fast action.

never tested d5100 but I used a canon 1000D and 50D before. Need to see what lens is mounted on it, but to be honest, it is not that fast compared to dslr focus speed, and sometime it hunts to focus (*More so in lowlight, better use manual focus in this situation  )
I'm no expert in this, but I mostly adapt to the situation, usually above 1/200. but if you're using the kit lens, I can only assume that you use the long end of the zoom which at 50mm because you said it was dark and the only explanation is the aperture is at the most minimum for that lens at f5.6 which is not ideal for indoor fast action indoor shooting (**Assuming its indoor based on your problem  )

That's why I prefer to use prime lens, cause it has faster aperture or u can buy faster zoom lens the 16-55 f2.8 

but usually if I have to really use that lens, I will take it in RAW file format and edit it later to brighten the photo (**Not the ideal way but this is one of the way if I have no other lens  ) Just make sure the photo is not to dark, as it is not easy to recover dark image if it's to dark 

Welcome. Since u said dark area, you have 2 option. Get prime lenses with big aperture(as sreme21 suggested) or get a flash. I know some die hard ambient light fans who would never use a flash because of their unnatural look. However, i found that, with proper diffusion, flash light can light up your subjects in a beautiful way. As I read on this forum, natural light can be ugly too, especially if u have to bump up the iso to increase your SS, which will induce lots of noise.

there are a lot of choices and a lot of variety due to what you are shooting, how you shoot and also whether the picture come out correctly or not

but generally 1st open with either Capture One or Lightroom or Photo Ninja or iridient developer or Aperture
after that do the necessary adjustment, for further editing/post processing then you export as jpg, tiff to photoshop to edit
photoshop there are too wide changes u can do, like u can make something disappear or make something won't  be there also can appear..etc etc

this is depending on individual
I personally use capture one for the accuracy for fujifilm, some prefer lightroom or other software

there is not exact setting, just the workflow

if i shoot portrait, then i adjust the brightness/contrast then move to photoshop to do skin healing etc
if do landscape, mostly capture one/lightroom is more than enough coz i just adjust white balance,exposure, contrast
if street, most likely i grab the pics from fuji camera itself as fuji jpg is good enough to be posted

if you new in photography, explore lightroom first and see what lightroom offers
hope this helps

I use LightRoom, suits my need.

Do you guys use Standard, Vivid or Classic Chrome?

I know I use Classic Chrome when I take street photos. Seems that I am a bit attached to RAW. So I used RAW+JPEG all the time.

This is the Film Simulation in camera settings. Everyone is dying to have Classic Chrome in their camera, one of the selling points for Fujifilm.

Like what Fruitie said. Remember when people used to say it's not worth upgrading your camera body if it's still similarly spec-ed?

Well this one is well worth just for classic chrome. The colors are natural as f***.

Sirui carbon fiber tripod. I have one and totally value for money. A good tripod will last you forever.

My sirui CF tripod broke where the CF rod connects to the legs area.

Replaced it with a manfrotto CF travel tripod used from e bay. Really awesome and sturdy. I also noticed that while there are many CF tripod, a lot depends on the other non CF parts as well to see how light and sturdy it is in the end

Xf23f1.4 - rm2969, Fuji MY..... ordered thru shopback so will get another 2% cash back on top of rm400 by Fuji...