When you go take delivery of the car, there are some paperwork to sign off. One of them has a checklist of things, so go through them one by one and take a short drive around before signing off.

For your USB, recheck the format.

For your door, it is up to personal preference.

Engine whether tight or not, surely will be hot. If it is not, something is very very extremely wrong. No need to have a hair of worry on it, just drive it even when outside is 40C. It still won't explode.

Congratulations on your new car

Most likely, the SA/SC won't answer you. My presumption is the slight differences in engine and/or transmission tuning to suit our driving condition and fuel quality. If you want to match the performance numbers, you can either get a set of lighten alloy wheels or go get a racechip which will definitely put your engine and transmission longevity to question.

Aiya...just enjoy the car la... 0.x difference is so hard to detect....

For the nature of GDI engines, it will create more soot/deposits when running in lean mode (meaning : light engine loads). Also, for the slow traffic crawl and traffic jams, as the combustion and engine oil temperature are not optimal, also will produce more deposits. And this in turn causes the catalytic converter to not run in high enough temperature to oxidise those unburned fuel. So when the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) kicks in, the crap come back in again. So it is a self feeding cycle if driving in low engine loads during slow/traffic jams....you just can't help it with your type of driving situation.

Running RON97 (not because if the RON rating, but due to the slightly better than RON95 additives) or better will only help very marginally. Do intake cleaning maybe every 20,000km should help, especially when the engine has lower mileage. The deposit layer won't be too thick for the solvent to act on it. Euro4 RON97 does help keep the catalytic converters in the exhaust system in better health for the long run.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Jul 29 2016, 04:47 PM

There are many types of combustion coatings available in the market and Nikasil is just one of them. Are you sure this Honda engine is Nikasil coated? If yes, please share the source link, i'm interested to read it.

No offense, but i think your facts are more applicable towards diesel. Although some of the facts are still applicable to petrol engines.

Cetane ratings are only applicable to diesel fuel. Unlike RON rating, higher cetane rating can derive more power to the engine.

The PPM average was true at that time (which was 3 or 4 years ago), but no one go follow up to double check is it applicable now. Anyone wants to give sample to SIRIM to check? I know they can.

Sudah unofficially dijual, i dah tanya

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4011464

It will fit, but your speedometer reading will be off.

No car can be exact...if the speedometer is overstating the speed, that's normal (i think all factory stock cars are like that), usually within 5-8km/h. GPS itself is not really exact either, unless you go for military grade.

If the speedometer is understating actual speeds, that will be a problem and you should insist to recalibrate in this case.

Can be DLC (Diamond like Coating) or simple teflon, but i really don't know. Maybe a little longer where more enthusiasts tuners start playing with the engine more, only then more details will flow out.

Here's a good general read about internal coatings (not specific to cylinder) : http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/09/ev...ace-treatments/

Wa...so honoured that my comments got such attention

All the above cars give you good fuel consumption and rather durable. These are Japanese engineering after all, not the "picky" continentals.

Just some idea here for you to consider :
Civic 1.8 (i presume you mean it is the new one that is just launched)
1) engine is tried and tested
2) maintenance will be easier as mechanics are well experienced in handling it
3) it is a car with great interior space, almost to the size of the accord
4) one of the best interior NVH in the class
5) good resale value in the future (as like the past generations of civics)
6) broad many service centres
7) quite a good drive
8) does have a number of niggling issues as the car is new model

Altis 1.8
1) engine is tried and tested
2) maintenance will be easier as mechanics are well experienced in handling it
3) it is a toyota (high resale value in the future)
4) should be the most comfortable ride (softer suspensions)
5) many service centres
6) worst safety features list

Mazda3
1) fuss free and worry free for the 1st 3 years as maintenance is free for 3 years/60,000km
2) relatively reliable although the engine is the newest among this bunch (so far from the issue list that i gathered from a UK website)
3) really nice handling
4) greatest grunt/acceleration among the 3
5) interior materials quality can be comparable to the new civic (debatable)
6) smallest boot among the bunch
7) NVH while driving fast is worst among the bunch
8) good value for money for the GL spec
9) really really fun to drive (because i own one and i drive hard and i know it )


Go test drive these 3 car kaw kaw la...then you go figure out which one you like most (assuming financing aside). Opinions are after all, just opinions. You'll be owning the car, you'll be driving it, decide on your own after researching and test driving it.

Then get both

Not really, 99% of the cars on the road don't have additional coatings done.

Benefits of coating in general :
1) paint maintains shine better and longer
2) easier to clean dust off
3) some added protection to the original paint clear coat (debatable though)
4) nice water beading effect

I used to be a bit crazy of coatings stuff and so wanted to apply it onto my new car. But after thinking through sometime, i refrained and have some realisations...

My thoughts (and no offense to those that did their coating, but something for those that are sitting on the fence deliberating whether to get it done or not); if you want a proper protection, better get a genuine physical layer of material over it, ie a film/vinyl wrap. Colour, patterned, satin, matt, glossy, metallic finish or transparent, doesn't matter. When you're driving at speeds, when a nice stone hits the body panel, it will still leave a mark for those who does their coating. The sacrificial layer/thickness of the coating is just too thin/marginal to take on such impact.

Those hardness rating of 8H 9H or 10H that was being mentioned, i really have no idea it is comparable or measured against what metric. The only thing i can think of is the pencil hardness (which also uses the H rating for their hardness grades) that we see in the stationary shop. And if the coatings are as claimed to be so good at protecting the paint surface, i have no idea why watermarks, tree saps and bird poo can leave a permanent stain. I've not experimented, but I'm also suspicious that the coatings can't even stand the scratch of the finger nail....

If there's any vendor that can demonstrate that after coating, when you lightly run a key over the car panel without leaving a scratch mark, take my money pronto A stone hitting on your car's body panel is definitely much harsher than lightly running the key over. For those film/vinyl wrap, i know they can stand up to a light key scratch or the frequent finger nail scratch on the door handles and much better at stone chipping protection.

Other thoughts and opinions welcomed.

The self healing type can go up to 5 figure territory, mostly used on exotic cars which the owners have plenty of money to spend

Hope they are just ogling at your car instead of planning something sinister. Quite unlikely that they want to steal your car as this car is still quite new. They may not have fully understood/develop methods to steal the car quickly. But if rob then.....

Kind of useless as it only just on and off with motion around the sensor's detection range. If these crooks are persistent, they just see it as a minor irritant. Unless you have CCTV where can start recording when motion activity is detected.

But even so, we know how our police la

Point 1 to 4 applicable to all cars as long as there's engine oil in it.

2nd half part of point 2 is not applicable to our climate, even our normal cold mornings are considered "warm" in terms of the operating climate range. Our climate will not cause the engine oil to be thick and gloopy. Only climates below 10C need to take note of this.

For point 4, just avoid those unknown brand la....if really unsure of the various brands, just go for those brands that also sell petrol or those that the SC recommends. For japanese cars, the engines are not so picky unlike those from continental brands.

Point 6 is really stupid, who does that before turning off their cars??

Good enough already.

Even our so called high speed driving won't heat up the turbochargers that much. If you follow the speed limit, 110km/h will be around 1800-2000rpm only, hardly putting much load to the turbocharger....

A walk around + a short test drive, 30 minutes to 1 hour. Remember to go through the handover checklist, highlight issues that you found. But don't expect the car to get rejected due to minor issue, they'll arrange for rectification work at your next service.

Unlikely to be anything from the electrical side or a failed pump. Maybe due to debris stuck, hopefully at the exterior end.

No harm also trying to top up the windscreen washer water tank till full.

Anyway, if all else fails, just head to the service centre at your next service or anytime at your convenience for them to check on it.

Regarding your AC problem, it reminds me of a similar issue i faced with my previous 13 year old vios. But mine a bit worse, it would suddenly cut off cold air even mid way driving regardless of weather. The only stand up observation was that this occurs more frequent during a hot day and longer drive. The cause, a failed magnetic clutch to engage the compressor.

Here's how it works, when the cabin temperature sensor detects that the temperature reached a certain point, it will send a signal to energise the coils in the clutch and a magnetic force will be generated. Due to the magnetism, it will engage the belt pulley system/auxiliary crank related to air conditioning. If you stand near a saga/myvi, assuming their air conditioning is on, you'll hear something like "umm......errhhh........" (that's the best i can come out in describing the sound) that last about 7-15 seconds. Then stop for similar amount of time, then repeat again.

The "umm" part is the magnetic clutch engaging the pulley system/auxiliary crank, causing a momentary loss of power and quickly counteracted by the ECU to accelerate a bit to prevent the engine stalling. If you're inside the car, you'll see the rpm meter will drop a little bit then come back up again. The "errrhhh" part is the turning of the compressor and also the radiator fan cranking faster.

I'm don't know how the air conditioning system is like for this new Civic. Maybe you can mention this to the mechanics there whether got such a magnetic clutch. But i also do know that there are more and more parts manufacturers that are combining both the clutch and compressor together into the same unit, meaning either one spoiled, have to change the whole set....