That is what I always had in my mind. When the SC guy thick the checklist, I told him no need to check battery water and also so called battery protector BUT after service everything is included by the person who did the service. I had to keep my temp cool. I don't want to argue with the person at the desk.

What to do? the warranty is 5 years and if you miss servicing at Perodua, the warranty is no more valid

I had the same problem once when the car is new. Initially it was not beeping that bad. They change the new control board and it is getting worse. Then on the next appointment, they change the sensor itself (the one on the bumper). Now, no more problem; except when the motorbike squeeze in the wait near my sensor at the traffic light

Since you use highway almost like me, I also hit the 18km/L mark without any potent booster whatsoever even with speed hit around 120km/h (eco light is off)

You need color code for what? You mean the code number itself? The workshop will know. I think it is under the engine hood if not mistaken

Maybe this will help?
https://www.aikka.com.my/perodua

There got touch-up kit in Tesco. The kit has 3 bottles. First to clean surface to ensure the paint adhere to the surface. Second is the paint itself. The third on is a clear lacquer to make the paint shines.
Very easy to use. Nearby the kit, there is chart for right car color. All kind of cars' made

So, you want to buy Bezza for its seat and put it onto your Axia?

Mine intermittently the engine jerks for not reason. It is random. Few times the engine light turned on. When this happened, the air-will be turned off. When reached home and started the car the next day, the engine light still on but normally will off before reach Perodua SC

The diagnostic showed voltage drop. They still don't know what was wrong. Last week they changed the throttle body. I think I saw its price at RM900 over. So far still ok but I think slight jerking. Not sure what they are going to change this time if it still happened.

I think it can be anything. Probably not total failure on throttle body. Sometimes when you want to accelerate, the car just hesitating and felt like misfiring. The earlier diagnostic shows irregularity on cylinder 2. It was found that the molded nut in the spark plug cover already lose and screw cannot lock properly and got that replaced since the problem stated to happen after they change spark plug. I told them that I doubt that would be the cause but yet still they need to replace the cover.

Few days after that, the symptom occurred again and the second time they replace the throttle body because one of the technician in Kuantan experienced the same problem and was solved after replacing the throttle body. Been 3 days now and no serious jerk but I think the problem still not solve. There are many sensor and the engine light on can be anything from all these sensors.

Now I need to just test it for this week.

I'm not worry even if they said to change car since it is still under warranty. At first I thought they said need to change "Total Body"

Your car should not be like that even if the engine is still "cold". Mine I just drive immediately. Just don't rev the engine high. The light will normally go off around 100m or so. Keep at about 2000 rpm when engine s cold.

Mine is checked by Perodua SC because it is still under warranty. They still figuring it out

It is not the alternator. The SC confirmed it. Just like computer, the error stated is not necessarily related to actual cause.

With Axia drive by wire, most likely the signal sent ti throttle body is interrupted.

No JPJ problemo? The RM180 is for windshield or whole car?

Any tire brand has softer and harder rubber. The soft series will sure reduce noise but it will has shorter life than the harder one Too soft also flex too much during cornering and if you are not used to it, it feel awkward and unsafe

The maintenance free battery is different from dry battery. I was wondering if you need dry battery. It would be expensive.

You should look for the the Rolling Resistance Coefficient (RRC). Nowadays, the Eco friendly is the talk subject. The obvious way to reduce rolling resistance is to reduce surface contact. Yes, the tire is quieter but it has negative impact on traction and braking distance.

The only way to reduce tire noise is to turn the music loud

P is for Parking but the gear itself is not a brake. Of course the car will not move but the slight movement is actually from the slack among gears. In engineering term it is called "backlash". Put your car in P at home and do not pull handbrake. Try to push the car back and forth. There will be slight movement but the car will not move beyond the gears backlash.

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Perhaps the battery in the remote was not in good contact. Just like your TV remote, sometimes need to open the battery cover and roll the battery in its slot and everything is good again. In car remote car, knocking the remote onto your hand palm solve the problem. Otherwise it is possible that the battery is not good.

If the car battery is not good, you normally can lock and unlock it even if you cannot start the car because it takes more power from battery to start the engine than to unlock the car.

Another possible cause is that the remote is not functioning properly like it was not tunes properly causing frequency shift or bad component causing intermittent failure.

Any battery with with caps where you can open and refill the battery water is not maintenance free type. No matter what brand

I just bought whichever one that are on sale and use them. Some can last around 1 year ++, some 2 years++ and some even 3 years++. Unfortunately I don't record the brands

I normally use maintenance free battery. Too lazy to check water level. Just a bit more expensive but within 2 years, monthly cost is not significant for me

Remove everything in your car booth and check if there is still sound. If it is, get it checked at SC. It's free anyway