How frequent do you need to reapply? I've tried other ppl's cars with rain X on the windscreen, wiper judder with Bosch OE wipers, not sure if it's application problem.

However they are really good for side windows, a must for rainy season, mine lasted about 4months before it starts to show signs of wearing off. 

Lol a couple of days ago was discussing this with blurcase about this issue. Same guy.

Personally I think acid based car shampoos are not acidic enough to remove road film. And difficult to find acid based shampoo too.

Sticking to my regime and see no harm. His theory might be right, but many issues and factors are not considered as well Imo, so it might not be 100% correct. Unless tests are done, this remains a hypothetical theory to me.

Traditional wax are based on oil formulation. Nowadays we have sealants that are waterbased and water activated. Ie: carpro hydro2. Meaning oil is not the ONLY hydrophobic property, thus his consideration is inaccurate.

His argument is that pH neutral is not able to remove oil, therefore oil films cannot be removed. His only support is that because pH neutral cannot remove oil from wax, therefore oil films cannot be removed.

What if oil can be removed, but not grimes?

Yup, personally the more I watch the videos from Dallas Auto Paint Correction, the more I take a pinch of salt to what he says. I understand he has alot of professional experience with detailing, so I wont dispute his experience and expertise, but I dont like the idea that ppl try to trash talk or disprove of everything the detailing industry norm has on almost every recent video. It makes me feel more like they are doing it just to get more ppl viewing their videos and make money from Youtube rather than being honest about things. I believe everything in detailing has its pros and cons, and to only tell one side of the story most of the time isnt a balanced view.

I have not tried Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish, but from reviews and how it works, it looks like a liquid wax put in aerosol can. From my personal experience with aerosol cans, there can be disadvantages such as the compressed air finish before the product finish. In this case the remaining product becomes wasted. Another disadvantage is nozzle clogging, but this only commonly occurs in spray paint, hopefully it doesnt happen to this product.

I also will stick to my current regime. I am currently using Meguiars NXT Ultimate Wash, and I find it effective in cleaning the car even though it is pH neutral. My ratio of concentrate to water is higher than recommended in the label description, as it gives me more effective cleaning of visible contaminants. For non-visible and below surface contaminants, I continue to use clay, tar remover, and polish when necessary. For protection I wax or coat, but now trying out spray sealants as well.

Just my 2 sen.

We have the same feeling
my gut feeling told me that he started to talk like a salesman and wanna sell something
true enough, in one of his vid, he commented he is working on some kind of car wash and looking to patent it. I was like "gotcha"!
BTW,
meg came out with a new cleaner wax aka AIO
D166 Ultra Polishing Wax

i am big fan of polishing AIO and with D166, HD speed should be worry now lol

To me, currently AIO is like those big sensor mirrorless camera in camera world where it disrupts DSLR market(Compound+polishing 2 steps)

Can't remember how much as I've had it for few years already. It's heavy though, need to buy something lighter

Anyway did 4 cars over the last long weekend

What is the best way to clean the pads after usage? Some recommend to hand wash and wring dry (which some commented said this will cause the velcro to peel), some say to use pressure washer to spray and remove the residue (but some say will expand the interior structure) then some recommend use the bucket where you spin it...

So for DIY newbie like me, which would be the easiest and safest way to clean the pads? what sort of cleaner? Is it worth getting those like tool to agitate the residue? or those brush?

Meguiars Warehouse sale this weekend.

https://www.meguiars.com.my/index.php?route..._blog_post_id=7

Update: Just went and bought Meguiars D156 1 Gallon for about RM214.

Went there bought this xD. Thinking of getting myself a DA from them. Worth it? Or is there any other brand?

do you want with the spray bottle?

My first attempt to try glass/ceramic coating. Paint prep using Wash with all purpose cleaner, Clay using Meguiars White Clay using ONR diluted as Lube, Meguairs Ultimate Polish on Yellow Rupes Pads on LHR15 Mark 2 (lightswirl), Finish with OSREN P20 on White Rupes Pads  on LHR15 Mark 2. IPA 99.7% diluted 1:1 with RO water. Glass Coat -> 30 seconds light pressure MF buff -> 5minutes later medium Pressure  buff.

[attachmentid=9522868]
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Zoom in the lamp part

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Applicator suede MF used to apply the coating, right after coat already sunk in water with APC, yet it still hardened.

Am I right doing the application? Please Comments and Critics sifu.

Very nice! Great shine!

I've just started detailing my own car today also. Prepping it for CNY. Since I had some new products that I have yet to try, decided to try them out for this session.

2 Items I have tested so far, Carpro IronX and Carpro TarX. Just to give a short review:

Carpro IronX:

1) Sprayed it on a dry car, the smell of this chemical is probably worse than public toilet. The smell is quite strong, but good thing the smell doesnt spread or last very long.
2) Started to see some streaks of purple, left it for a while then rinsed off.
3) Total amount used abit more than half of the 500ml bottle.
4) Found that despite some purple did streak out, it isnt as severe as how we see in videos. Maybe because we as car enthusiast take better care of our cars, so the purple streaking was limited.
5) Did it help to make claying easier or quicker? Absolutely not. Used plastic bag test on body panel and minimal difference in terms of roughness.
6) Would I continue to buy this product and use? Probably not. My idea of getting this product was to make my life claying the car easier and faster, and proven wrong today. I dont find other significant use for this that claying cant do.

Carpro TarX:

1) Sprayed mostly on the lower half of the car, especially closer to wheel arches. This product smell way better, actually similar to Osrent Tar Remover smell (possibly same chemical components).
2) Started to see tar spots melting, left it for a while, then sprayed second round.
3) As this product is abit oily, proceeded to rinse, then use some regular car soap to wash all the areas that got sprayed, and rinse again.
4) Unfortunately numerous tar spots still stuck there, other than creating the streaks, TarX did not totally remove it.
5) Did it help make claying easier? A little bit. TarX probably loosened the tar spots enough so that claybar can pick it up easier. However, lower area claying needs plenty of care, must always fold and re-knead the claybar and open new surface frequently, else the tar residue stuck on the claybar can scratch paint.
6) Would I continue to buy this product and use? Probably not, I think Osren Tar Remover is abit more aggresive against tar compared to TarX.
Next up to clay entire car, using Meguiars Aggressive claybar and Last Touch diluted 1:1. So far did 1/4 of the car and tired already, continue tomorrow.

It depends on your height. A 2-step stool is definitely a must have, but if your hand wash mitt can reach half the car from the side while standing on the stool, then I think the broom/mop stick is not necessary. But some ppl dont like climbing up and down stools during washing, so the mop stick makes sense for them.

I am 5’8”, and the SUVs I have aren not very high, so I use 2 step stool and normal hand wash mitt

get a water cooled Karcher.
MJJC foam lance from www.aliexpress.com

Gtechniq is from UK.

The first car I coated using Osren's is coming to 2 years now. Still beading/sheeting very good.