just put a fan as close to the bezel as possible and tie it with cable tie or something to ur drive bays.

not if its "hanging"/ "suspended"

if u tie the fan flat against the side of the bays then ud probably get vibrations...


otherwise, u could try using rubber hair ties and tie them up.

cardboard will weaken over time... and with the stress from the screws it will weaken sooner...and with the vibration from the fan it will weaken even sooner...

acrylic is strong and hard...not something u can tear like cardboard.


so my vote goes to NO for cardboard.

sanko is doing a bulk for scythe products in the bulk order section....

i want the fan for the same reason too...top exhaust on the A10.

right now due to the Inverted ATX conversion the 25mm fan is blocking my USB port pins on my mobo so i cant hav any front USB ports...

although im thinking of putting back to ATX and mounting the Xigmatek Dark Knight to blow air upwards (right into the exhaust fan).



does the top fan block the mobo's mosfet heatsinks?


EDIT: forgot to mention....i hope sanko can bring in the most power slim fan....coz then i can run at 5v or 7v or 12v. so ill have choices on how much noise/power i can have.... if go for the weakest one...ill only have 1 option....lembik

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Sep 26 2009, 01:17 PM

if the fans ur controlling arent high powered fans like the vizos or the xigmateks... try DIY....

just get some rheostats



SIMPLE GUIDE

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Oct 27 2009, 01:13 AM

i assume by power box u mean power supply aka PSU?

and since its noisy...i assume ur power supply fan design is similar to this...aka fan at the rear and using 80mm fan...




id recommend getting a PSU with a 120mm fan instead...would look something like this




and ur budget of RM200 to change it to make it quiet... id recommend the FSP Saga 400W PSU at about RM140...which is the picture of the 120mm fan PSU above. reliable, quiet, and should have sufficient power for ur rig.

u can purchase from forumer moderno HERE...his shop is based in subang if u wanna drop by and buy it directly.


i have the same exact PSU for my HTPC rig... and its been running flawlessly nonstop 24/7 for about a year now...only shut down if theres a blackout at my house. in my HTPC rig, i cant even hear the PSU fan. and i also bought mine from moderno through postage.

depends on the radiator fan orientation....

if its set to blow the air out of the case...then no need....if into the case...then u should

its alread stated....1Amp per channel max

so 3 fans combined must not exceed 1Amp


Amp...not watt

---

Added on December 9, 2009, 2:30 pmdepends....if all 3 fans at max are turning at the same RPM then when knob turned down itll be same RPM...

fan controllers dont control the RPM... they control the voltage going into the fan....



This post has been edited by mADmAN: Dec 9 2009, 02:30 PM

dont know....i dont use fan controllers....

id rather undervolt them myself.

put the radiator fans to blow air out of the case...

if ur blowing in...ull be blowing hot/warm air into the case.

do not put filters on exhaust fans.....

putting filter on exhaust fan will require more cleaning coz the dust will get stuck on the filter...

if no filter the fan will just pull the dust out unrestricted

wait hang on..... wat noise filters? linky?

positive pressure = intake CFM is MORE than exhaust CFM

negative pressure = intake cfm is LESS than exhaust CFM

points regarding positive pressure
1/ dust is not sucked into the case through the small nooks and crannies because air is going out of them.
2/ controlled dust intake with the use or good filters. this however, does not eliminate dust in the case... there will always be dust.

points regarding negative pressure
1/ air is sucked in through the nooks and crannies, and this brings dust along which means lesser control of dust intake.
2/ hot air is easily and quickly expelled out of the case, usually resulting in better overall temps.


fan RPM does not determine CFM.

so with that cleared....u need to take note of the following..

1/ aside from ur rear exhaust fan, keep in mind that ur PSU also acts as an exhaust. also, if ur GC is the type that exhausts through the back, u need to take that into account as well.

and with ur WC setup that ur planning, if ur putting the rad on top of the case, and ur gonna put the fan to blow air out, ur gonna have to add that as well.

2/ if a fan has 100cfm, take note that filters, and whatever else that blocks its airflow will reduce the cfm as well.

now...combining total CFM for both intake and exhaust each is gonna be tough. considering u have things like fangrill, filters, hdd cage, rad, bla bla bla blocking the fans airflow and reducing the CFM to an unknown amount.

so the best u can do, is forget it. seriously. temps tend to be better in a negative airflow case. also, just use all the fan slots with what theyre designed for (intake/exhaust). plus, getting positive pressure in a case is not easy.

at best, u can use low cfm fans for all the fans that are acting as exhaust and a much higher cfm fan for intakes (keeping in mind that CFM will be reduced due to blockage)

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Dec 24 2009, 07:43 PM

go read my post again...

especially point 2 and the last line in the post.

naah...should be fine...most cases are designed that way and have been serving well for years...i actually have a couple of rigs like that in the office.

the PSU fan will also help to suck out hot air being expelled by the processor fan

can of compressed air would good...

also a paintbrush...

assuming fan the plug on the controller is a 3 pin male....

then ur gonna need a 3pin female -> 3x3pin male splitter...

dont know where u can find such a thing...but u can always make it urself..parts can be purchased at electrical spare parts shop like jalan pasar or ss2.

soldering may be required.

add top exhausts.... itll help to blow out the hot air from the CPU HSF instead of it being recycled...

also, might as well get rid of the FFB.....if at 5v better to use stock fan and plug in to the mobo...then at least mobo can control and monitor fan speed...

somemore FFB has such a huge center dead zone due to the huge motor that the center part of ur hsf is prlly not getting any air....and in that orientation, itll ease the burden on the proc as well with a lighter fan.

ill probably put the FFB @ 7 or 5v on the side panel instead for a more focused and directed air flow...which is one of the main advantage of the blades..on the hsf, its so close to the fins that the blades dont really do much.


and at anything lower than 12v, the FFB aint really stable and can "wobble" at times...