Hey guys, wondering how the i-stop work, coz usually when im waiting at traffic lights, i will jz pt N and pull hand-brake, then i-stop will kick in, and sumtimes jz within a few secs engine will reignite itself without me doin anything. I thought the engine will only reignite if there is any feedbac from the driver as in gear changes, handbrake lifted and so on?

how much for the tyre?? Why not take 225 45 R18 le?? 40 so low profile not very bumpy meh?

So if I get 8.8L/100km for 80% highway driving is that considered acceptable? Do check out my gas info above if you don't mind helping me out :S

I would say my RPMs are usually 2.5k give or take .2

Only go above 3k-3.5k when overtaking. I monitor my RPMs too but not too strictly. Feel sad to buy such a car but cannot speed hahaha I drive like a beast in my Vios and I can still boast 460km per 42L tank compared to M3's 51L tank but I guess it's not a fair comparison.

Will remapping via AE tuned void warranty?

Yeah, most performance mods would void warranty. But don't you find the stock mapping very laggy? Always find that I have to rev above 3k-4k rpm if I want to accelerate to overtake.

Right now I barely need to rev that high. Its not that the car is more powerful after remapping, it just feels just smoother as power comes in quicker. Not to mention, no more speed limiter. lol.

overtake at 3k - 4k i think is quite a good power band to us. My ex-ride which is Persona AT 4 gears only, overtake may rise the RPM to above 4k lo.. and still find it slowly picking up.. hahaha..

MissHanz, I would advise you perform a check at SC. Dont think our Mazda3 is such a fuel thirsty monster. Previously I travel from Puchong to TTDI through LDP. Imaging 1 hr drive with almost 90% of time crawling in heavy traffic, I-stop was deactivated. I still can get above 500km per full tank. Round trip daily is around 50km, sometime it might take me 1 and half hour just to get back to Puchong.

Are shift paddles useful to control the gears rather than adding hardware or going for ECU remap?

I'm pretty sure the torque won't be high enough to damage your tyres as the increase will be modest. The max torque will probably be almost the same but should get more torque at low rpm. But it will be good if we can get a stock vs. remapped torque/hp curve.

Here is one example of a remapped Mazda 3 from a U.S. tuner. Not much difference in max torque (red dotted line v. green dotted line) but you can see that it has been boosted at low rpm. If can get something like this I'll be happy.

For those who got this car last year (eg. GL), may I know what was the pricings again?
I see from carlist for those with year 2015, it was around 96k. I read before that Mazda didn't increase the price this year (unlike Toyota and Honda) but why the current price is now 109k? 

The CannyCool website doesn't mention TSER (Total Solar Energy Rejection) which is the most important spec. UVR and IRR are useless as there is no standard so manufacturers can base on a narrow band or just a single wavelength to give impressive figures.

Better go for the established brands, IMO.

I use Caltex most of the time but only for convenience sake. Because there's a station near where I stay. Personally I don't feel much difference. This kind of debate will get all sorts of answers. It's damn hard to test because of varying traffic conditions / route / driving style.

Don't think there's a right or wrong answer, just try every one out and choose which you like.

Here you go, it's not my dyno. It's what the tuner showed to me. I suppose he's using similar settings.

Anyways, a slight update for those that want to know about the FC. I just refilled full tank yesterday, and you can see my mileage. Daily travel from Ampang - PJ. So I don't cover that much distance, one tank usually lasts me almost 2 weeks. I'll continue to monitor.

Here you go.

Guys, do u experience a noisier engine when it starts when it's cold? (Blue temp indicator)

Mine is like way noisy when it's cold. Put it in gear and the noise goes away.

Normal starts its ok very quiet.

Hi kluseng, thanks for remembering! I did monitor my driving to *try* to keep it to under 90kmh but decided that was not how I wanted to live haha. I keep it to 2.5rpm driving at 120kmh making sure to keep the needle below 3rpm. Definitely some improvements. I can drive up to 440kmh now before I have to refuel. Will keep track for another 2-4 weeks to see if it will improve in time as I've only driven my car for officially one month and two days now. Car performance also seem more smooth as well as for the laggy acceleration.. Not sure if I've gotten used to it or what but it seems like my mazda seems to be more familiar with how I drive now, and is more willing to accelerate. Current FC is 8.3 km/l AVG speed at 31. Last fuel-up on the 26th and I have been driving everyday. Still about 25% fuel left. Good news indeed!

Went to SC to replace parts and brought up the fuel thing to them, but told them it is improving; but will still monitor if any oddities crop up. The SC just don't really care and just nod head and have no input. They changed 3 parts in my car but still got sound so they say need to order from Japan since our warehouse tak ada. 3 horus of my off day wasted but better than this dude I read in the other mazda3 forum.

A 2015 mazda 3 after 9 months driving suddenly caput. Everything else working, lights radio etc but die die also cannot start engine. Called mazda and they couldn't figure it out. Loaned him a mazda 6 first to diagnose his car. Turns out it was a faulty body control module. Link here if you're interested.

Few days ago I read about someone fixing the ticking noise at the dashboard and uploaded this pdf but it didin't solve it for certain drivers so this guy did something unusual to his car himself that solved it but seems a tad worrisome.

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when to 1U shopping mall and park at the rooftop car park, when coming down the ramp my car scratch against the left divider because i still cant get used to the longer and wider car body, then go down and check it didnt touch the body, but the rear left rim got like 3cm scratch at the edge, lucky the tyres didnt puncture

did you guy notice that some car like to provoke you after you drive m3? just now i drive close to a Kia Rio on right lane then he might have thought that i'm provoking him, then after that keep tailgating me, i damn scare he will kiss me anytime, when he overtake me again i can see that the driver keep looking at me

seriously why would i want to provoke a Kia Rio and on a busy Sungai Besi highway

bro i feel you. i agree on this. Been travelling between highways recently, airport NKVE, Elite, DUKE etc. i notice many cars tot im provoking them .. much like when you see many videos in youtube those lala wira mod when see Ferrari go race with them like that ... like will follow damn close behind, then i accelerate lo to show him im capable of going fast, but just wanna drive safe (got a friend died of speeding recently).. until i close to the car in front, just to let him know its  the car in front slowing him down, not me ... most of the time ill just go aside and let them pass. but i dont practice the culture of looking to another driver when they pass by, to me, by doing that it feels like provoking ady haha ... or they will very aggressively overtake me , like very abrupt steering to cut in ... if i see this kinda ppl, especially at MEX where theres a lot of steep slope, i will dust them off there coz i know their car is struggling to climb

i got a feel because the M3 design , front DRL and tail light are very aggressive ... so ... car face problem lo , what to do, our car looks so nice ... like asking for fight like that ... haha

price still can negotiable bro? any chance to contact seller?

any owner here use tyre size 225/40/18?

I went Mazda Glenmarie, is HQ.

Their service manager told me that is natural but need to investigate. I already put my car there for 5hrs.

End up also told me they need time to investigate.

Lol.. is like drag my time.

my 1st mazda car and also the last 1.

haiz