QUOTE(Grain @ May 24 2009, 04:52 AM)
Depend on model and versionlomography
lomography
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May 24 2009, 10:38 AM
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#41
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May 24 2009, 01:19 PM
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#42
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QUOTE(obsesiselebriti @ May 24 2009, 12:31 PM) hey. new to lomography here. technically can but no one doing nowadays...just a quick question. can do cross processing with the normal film? not the slide film. thanks in advance. reason is slide chemical is much more expensive and not common after digital day raised. Another reason is to be confirmed, which is when you use E6 to develop negative will produce toxic. ![]() |
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May 24 2009, 03:24 PM
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#43
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May 24 2009, 07:13 PM
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#44
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QUOTE(Grain @ May 24 2009, 06:24 PM) http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2039/292597..._1aa567a7cc.jpg The picture that you showed is taken by multiple exposure function.this camera take this type of picture http://www.tv-asahi.co.jp/decade/photostudio/index.html Easily can achieve by most of the LOMO Camera, like LC-A+, Fisheye2, Holga, Diana The camera you showed is BlackBird Fly, from SuperHeadz - http://www.superheadz.com/bbf/ |
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May 25 2009, 09:02 PM
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#45
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May 25 2009, 09:56 PM
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#46
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Jun 1 2009, 10:13 PM
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#47
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then pls join www.lomographyasia.com forum
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Jun 16 2009, 09:53 PM
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#48
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QUOTE(zero7 @ Jun 16 2009, 08:35 PM) WAAAAAHHH actually I do have a same problem with you tamtam, maybe you can post some "lomo" sample here so we know what you wantmine also... mine is ah gong's old nikon's film camera got it last year but i've no idea coz im still newbieee!! i wish to take lomo photos without using lomo cameras!! please please anyone help us!! |
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Jun 17 2009, 12:02 PM
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#49
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QUOTE(zero7 @ Jun 17 2009, 11:35 AM) yes i want to get yellowish or more to greenish photos... If you want yellowish and greenish... try Kodak EBX 100.then i did it before but i couldn't get nicer outcomes maybe because i use greenish plastic slides which i found it in my grandfather's house could be wrong slide lol Fuji Velvia towards Reddish Also make sure you take the photo under bright sunlight! Here are my samples with different slide films: Kodak EBX 100 (Cross Processed) ![]() ![]() ![]() Fuji Velvia 100 (Cross Processed) ![]() ![]() ![]() This post has been edited by philipcs: Jun 17 2009, 12:04 PM |
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Jun 17 2009, 09:43 PM
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#50
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QUOTE(d8kd @ Jun 17 2009, 09:39 PM) you are welcome. share with us your collection later also FYI in just you are in PJ, SS2 YS Photo selling RM16 and E-Six in Pudu Plaza selling RM14400 is the iso number. not really higher is better, it depends on usage. normally, the lower iso tends to give a finer grain. but using high iso gives the advantage while shooting in a darker environment becos we can then use a faster shutter speed to avoid hand shakes. if you want kodak ebx, check out the fuji store (foto mega) at wangsa maju. i think they still have stock now selling at RM17 per roll. Added on June 17, 2009, 9:42 pmoh by the way ... to addon, i'm not sure if using color filters will turn a pic into yellowish or greenish anot. as far as i know, those filters are use when shooting in black and white. but do check out the lomo Colorsplash Flash or Colorsplash Camera, they should give what you expect. Sample Pics of Colorsplash Camera Sample Pics of Colorsplash Flash basically, the two do the same thing by flashing colorful flash. Added on June 17, 2009, 9:45 pm QUOTE(d8kd @ Jun 17 2009, 09:39 PM) Added on June 17, 2009, 9:42 pmoh by the way ... to addon, i'm not sure if using color filters will turn a pic into yellowish or greenish anot. as far as i know, those filters are use when shooting in black and white. but do check out the lomo Colorsplash Flash or Colorsplash Camera, they should give what you expect. Sample Pics of Colorsplash Camera Sample Pics of Colorsplash Flash basically, the two do the same thing by flashing colorful flash. This post has been edited by philipcs: Jun 17 2009, 09:45 PM |
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Jun 25 2009, 12:43 PM
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#51
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Jun 25 2009, 10:57 PM
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#52
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LCA? slide film?
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Jun 27 2009, 12:59 PM
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#53
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QUOTE(supernothing @ Jun 21 2009, 08:59 PM) hi guys, here is the photo for your reference.need some help here. open up my supersampler and saw this thing inside. don't know what it is for. as i don't have any reference where this come from inside the camera, need help from any owners. help identify where this thing supposed to be inside the camera. next time you guys change film or what not. take picture or PM me, and post here please. Thanks. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « picture in the spoiler. ![]() |
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Jun 27 2009, 01:01 PM
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#54
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QUOTE(philipcs @ Jun 25 2009, 10:57 PM) will suggest you to continue to shoot as 100 then ask the shop to PUSH 1 stop during development.Added on June 27, 2009, 1:07 pm QUOTE(holoman @ Jun 27 2009, 01:37 AM) hello Lomo product are usually make from plastic, including plastic lens, fixed focal length full manual exposure (except LCA and Horizon Perkert), suffer from soft image, heavy vignette, distortion.... im new with lomo may i know what is the different lomo with other camera ? can anyone explain it to me and .. for 1st step try this thing.which model should i try 1st ? Sound bad huh ? but on the other hand, the effect look artistic especially you shoot with slide film and cross process it. 1st lomo camera? as for me, my 1st lomo is Holga 135BC, cheap, easy to use, using 35mm film. then slowly move on to others to try other effect, at last, of course is LC-A+ After that, kena poison by other vintage film camera like Yashica Electro 35 GSN, Nikon FE2, Olympus XA............... This post has been edited by philipcs: Jun 27 2009, 01:18 PM |
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Jun 30 2009, 09:15 AM
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#55
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Jul 1 2009, 11:06 PM
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#56
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QUOTE(roonneo @ Jul 1 2009, 10:57 PM) Anybody know whether any shop in KL area selling FISHEYE NO 2? Thanks lomographic embassy malaysiasource: http://shop.lomography.com/shop/main.php?c...ic_Cameras&pro= 41 jalan ss 21/1A damansara utama 47400 petaling jaya selangor. 9am to 10pm daily 03-77258930 info@ilovewondermilk.com http://www.facebook.com/l/;www.ilovewondermilk.com http://www.facebook.com/l/;www.lomographyasia.com |
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Jul 10 2009, 01:37 PM
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#57
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Jul 10 2009, 01:44 PM
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#58
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QUOTE(iz1011 @ Jul 10 2009, 01:25 PM) i have a question here..what;s the diff wif a film SLR and a Lomo cam??yes..there both use the flim..and..can there have the same effect after taking the picture??or any kind?diff from the normal SLR camera..just curious to know..any explanation?? In film era, pro camera divided into 2 types (i am talking about 135 format).SLR and Rangefinder. See below: (taken from http://forum.deviantart.com/galleries/photography/806179 ) QUOTE Single lens reflex cameras: Lomo camera is referring to LOMO LC-A, then later they started to sell a lot of toy cameras like supersampler, holga, diana, fisheye with control less, lousy quality, light leak, soft plastic lens with high price.A single lens reflex is a type of camera that allows you to see through the lens, as opposed to most other types of camera, wherein the viewfinder is usually located somewhere over the lens. This is done by means of a prism (or mirror) behind the viewfinder, in the top of the camera, and a mirror that hangs behind the lens and that pivots up out of the way when you trip the shutter. It works kind of like a periscope. There are a few inherent problems with this arrangement though. (1) The mirror swings up when you trip the shutter, and you can’t see anything. (2) The lens has to be located farther from the film to make room for the mirror, and this means that performance is noticeably reduced with wide angle lenses. (3) When the mirror reaches the top of its swing, it hits a padded foam bumper. This is designed to reduce vibrations, but is not 100% effective. At some shutter speeds this can cause motion blur. SLRs perform best with telephoto lenses, less well (but still pretty well) with normal lenses, and not very well at all with wide angle lenses. This last is because, in order to get a good image across that chasm taken up by the mirror box, the wide angle and normal lenses have to use extra glass elements. These lenses with the extra glass elements are called retrofocus lenses. Retrofocus design lenses are fine if you are making telephoto lenses, but not other types. ALL SLRs use retrofocus lenses. It is one of the things that make an SLR an SLR. Since the method used to focus one is to look through the viewfinder and adjust the focus until it looks sharp, they can be difficult or nearly impossible to focus in dim light. Nearly all SLRs, with only a few exceptions, have interchangeable lenses. This last property makes them very versatile, and able to do most types of photography (although some of these types they do better than others). They are good general purpose cameras. Rangefinders: A rangefinder is more of a specialist’s tool. They are great for street photography, for most types of full-length people photography, and for night photography. Focusing a rangefinder is done by triangulation. When you look into the viewfinder, you will see TWO images. These images are taken from opposite ends of the camera (so that the triangle you are going to use to set the focus has a wide enough base to be usable). It does this by using two mirrors. One mirror is semitransparent, and is located directly in front of the viewfinder. The other mirror is normal and is located behind a window on the other side of the camera. The semitransparent mirror is angled, so that while you can see through it, you also see the reflection of the other mirror. The otehr mirror is angled to show what is in front of the camera. This is why you are seeing two images. Adjusting the focus moves these two images closer together or farther apart. When they merge to form one image, the camera is in focus. This is much easier to do in dim light. Rangefinders do not have a mirror box, since there is no mirror pivoting up and down in them that needs room in which to swing. Thus, the lens can be located closer to the film. Because of this, they work better than SLRs with normal and wide angle lenses, but they don’t work very well at all with telephoto lenses. They do have some advantages that make up for this though. Aside from their ability to be easily focused at night, they use simpler non-retrofocus lenses, and the normal and wide angle lenses are usually superb – they will be sharper, to a noticeable extent, than ANY non-telephoto lens you can put on ANY SLR. Also, rangefinder lenses don’t have another problem of retrofocus lenses: Every retrofocus lens has one aperture at which it is sharpest. Sharpness falls off to a noticeable extent if you don’t use this aperture (usually somewhere between f/8 and f/16, depending on the lens). Rangefinder lenses don’t have this problem. There is very little difference between the sharpness of a photos taken at any apertures. This is a gift from God for street photographers. It works out well for full-length figure photographers too – but not for those who do head-and-shoulders portraits and who thus require telephoto lenses. Another drawback to using a rangefinder is that it is necessary to be able to look through the viewfinder in order to use a polarizing filter – and so you can’t use them with rangefinders. Also, no rangefinder that I know of can use zoom lenses. In fact, most rangefinders have fixed lenses (there are a few exceptions to this last though). In fact, lomography is referring to the new way to shoot photos with the 10 golden rules. |
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Jan 6 2010, 10:58 AM
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#59
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QUOTE(Uzumaki NaruTo @ Jan 5 2010, 08:05 PM) this is camera is very fun to shoot moving subject, either you move your camera or your subject move. Just to make sure you shoot under bright sun light with ISO200/400 film.Check out the slideshow here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7kWW0wYKlg and this is my photo taken with supersampler: ![]() ![]() This post has been edited by philipcs: Jan 6 2010, 10:59 AM |
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Jan 6 2010, 04:51 PM
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#60
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