Arduino is complicated if you have no idea how to connect the I/O and upload program into the board. Going with PID such as Sestos PID or Omron PID(higher end) would be easier. If you are comfortable cutting and connecting wire then shouldn't be too difficult. I follow the instruction from Gaggia Classic PID DIY guide. You also need a small 12v 0.5w LED transformer if you want to use Alarm 1 for steam control. By doing this, you will solve the low steam pressure problem as the PID manage to stabilize the steam around 120 degree celcius. Now I can get very good microfoam and keep the swirl going.
I went thru your pain before, using Porlex hand grinder. My problem same as you going for 2 cups very tiring. In the end, go for Macap M4 grinder as I think this is going to hold me for further upgrade for quite sometime.
Just some simple guide on how to PID using Sestos temperature control.
1. Trace the main wire to the rotary switch which use to select either brew or steam. Cut both N and L wire (Leave the ground cable connected to boiler). Use a wire connector to connect back both wire and also tap the wiring out to the PID (make sure you get a PID that run on 220/240v). Once you turn on the switch, it will turn on the PID.
2. Disconnect and remove the brew thermostat from the boiler. The wire that you disconnect should be connected to SSR Relay. You will use the PID to control the relay to turn on the boiler. Put the thermocouple (either K type or PT100) at the place where you remove the thermostat and use the existing clip to clamp it to the boiler. Leave the steam thermostat switch as we'll later tap the wiring to the alarm. I can't remove the brew thermostat as it'll somehow mess up with the steam ready light.
3. Connect the wire from thermocouple to PID. Set your temperature to around 94 to 96 degree and run autotune. After it's done try it out.
4. Optional. If you want to use the steam alarm, connect 2 wire parallel to the steam thermostat wire to 12v LED transformer. The 12v output +ve will be connected to alarm1 NC (normally close as you want it to connect when alarm is below steam temperature) then out to the SSR relay trigger. Remember to use a diode on the positive output on both alarm output to SSR trigger and from PID brew control +ve output. This is to prevent DC voltage back to the PID relay output. Set the Alarm high to 122 degree celcius as this will help maintain the temp around 118 to 120 degree celcius. What happen the temp is above 122 degree, it will disconnect the 12v relay from the LED transformer thus turning off the boiler.
I use this diagram for connection.
http://www.skenedesign.com/Silvia/Note D1 and D2 is diode 1 and 2. J1 is where you connect the alarm NC and COM. SSR is the trigger relay output from PID set temperature. Note the +ve and -ve for DC output. AC output doesn't matter which is L or N.
QUOTE(lowkl @ Apr 4 2016, 10:00 AM)
Yes! Yes! This is exactly what I want to try.
Any pointers on how to install a PID for the Poemia? I was looking at putting together a DIY PID following
this Arduino project, but while I'm not adverse to trying out some electronics project, the demands of getting into Arduino as well as figuring out how to piece it together as per this project is pretty daunting.
I have kinda given up steaming milk using the Poemia; as you know without the temperature control the heater is a simple thermostat, meaning zero additional heat until it drops below the threshold. What I do is completely vent the first time the steam light goes on (to remove the trapped water & to clear off the remaining low pressure steam), then let it boil up again. This at least gets about 80ml of milk to 60+C in one go. But the microfoam is pretty sad; very inconsistent, with large bubbles most of the time.
Will definitely try to depressurize the portafilter this coming weekend, after I get delivery of a tamper. But I still feel my grinder tak boleh pakai lah... tried hand grinding a dose using the trusty Hario Skerton... much better woh. Except not practical to grind 3 cups (48gm!!) before rushing to send kids to school in the morning. The 600N produces pretty OK grounds BUT towards the end it often spits out a huge clump of fines! Been banging my head on how to motorise the Skerton, but so far no joy. As per gurus advice on this forum, the only sure bet is to plonk down serious cash for a commercial grinder. Sigh.....
This post has been edited by pierreye: Apr 4 2016, 06:09 PM