QUOTE(AllnGap @ Dec 10 2006, 10:56 AM)

okay, regarding of what i've said earlier......
do you see the \ | / bone shape like on the fins ?
it helps to narrow the air to the bottom of the base.
heatpipe does not have heat capacity, meaning it cannot store heat, so no matter how many heatpipes you use (unless it's the space technology 2-way flow heatpipe), the base will remain hot as usual, hence with the fins which are all connected from the base to the top, the heat can radiate through the fins and heatpipes effectively.
from the usual 92mm motor diameter size, the air can still push down to the base effectively cooling the base of the heatsink....
i would think that XP-120 with (5 heatpipes) is the best provided if they come out with a copper version....but it's not available anyway
Tower heatsinks like Scythe Ninja and Infinity can be greatly improved if there's also active cooling at the bottom.....
QUOTE(AllnGap @ Dec 10 2006, 11:11 AM)
i was just trying to make sure that the link from the pic is working....
those people who has got tower heatsinks like Scythe Ninja/Infinity can try this :
put a blower blowing the base of the heatsink, you'll definitely see a temperature drop from there...
there are two criteria in heatsinks.....cooling the main heat radiation fins and cooling the source of the heat.....if both can be done, then you'll get very low temperature
let me get this straight... mofset cooling will be best if it's fully copper like xp-90c & it must have soldered fins to the base like xp-90,120,90c.... so if have both (fully copper & soldered fins to base) heatsink will be better lor... for this Scythe Andy Samurai Master it's fins not soldered to base & not copper...
what about the dead spot that u were talking the other day?
QUOTE(AllnGap @ Dec 8 2006, 08:17 PM)
good design but still dead spot in the middle...
so far, the best design for blowing down config is still Xp-90C
still haven't got the idea... can u share it with us