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 -+♠+-LYN Proton Persona IAFM Owners Club V54-+♠+-, Welcoming new legacy Persona owners!

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ahnee92
post Jan 7 2016, 09:11 PM

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recently changed my both front and rear default disc brake(bosch) to bendix,very satisfy, no more dusty problem and the annoying sound when stepping on the brake
ahnee92
post Jan 8 2016, 07:50 PM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Jan 7 2016, 11:09 PM)
you will notice zero to none brake dust.  laugh.gif
me from once cleaning rim every 1-2 week when on stock proton bosch, to now maybe once every 1-2 month... but too bad the rim no longer shinny anymore as the brake dust already baked last time.
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i feel u bro, but luckily mine still shine like default, one thing i noticed is that, last time with default disc brake(bosch), i have to step harder compare to this bendix i'm using right now

QUOTE(dannyw @ Jan 8 2016, 11:52 AM)
Which Bendix model you use? Ceramic type? and price?
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BENDIX METAL KING bro, as my family business is selling spare parts, so i'm getting it on my cost price, if u really intend to try, pm me, gt plenty of stock biggrin.gif biggrin.gif good things must share, obvious changed not just the dusty part, braking systems seems to be more practical and secure, Metal King extend your disc rotor life span too
ahnee92
post Jan 8 2016, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(mingwei1992 @ Jan 8 2016, 05:23 PM)
Hi guys, is 0w30 full synthetic ok? will change it during my svc tis mth. petronas syntium
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i'll suggest bro you to use 10w/40, semi synthetic will do seriously, for high cam engine better use xw/"40", more tahan panas bro
ahnee92
post Jan 8 2016, 07:55 PM

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QUOTE(szaku89 @ Jan 8 2016, 12:10 PM)
But my problem solved after changing brake pads. Rotor contributes to the noise too? I'm not really sure.
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rotor and disc brake if dust get into it, it will caused the annoying noise too....but if your rotor is cheap default one, you will still get some dust even though u changed to a better brake pads, it shows that racing disc rotor+racing disc brake seems to hv lesser or nearly zero dust compare to default parts
ahnee92
post May 9 2016, 10:41 PM

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recently more n more stupid fxxking noises coming out from no where, which most noticeable part is driver door parts, not sure it's the door handle, the power window switch part, or lower parts which produce irritating sound (i even punch or hit hard on it, though the sound still there biggrin.gif ) 2nd noises still coming out from the middle aircond part, still annoying and irritating like always, let's put ngek ngek sound aside. This is a car that rarely drive which is now 14k for 1 year and a half, when my mileage around 13k, i send for servicing (changing engine oils and filter only), the foreman jack up my car and they found both petrol and engine oil leaking, I was like, wow damn, why am I so lucky? a car that didn't even drive to any where will have petrol and engine oil leaking bangwall.gif bangwall.gif even though both leaking problems solved, but this car is definitely disappointed me to the max, no more having faith on it la, going to sell it out
ahnee92
post May 10 2016, 09:26 AM

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QUOTE(DBKL @ May 10 2016, 09:17 AM)
crazy la,

guys, this few days evening always heavy rain.

my persona rear seat floor filled with water..

anyone have same issue?

i never had this problem for 4 year using persona, suddenly this thing happen...

thanks in advance
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your car comes with door visor?? if not do check window rubber seal
ahnee92
post May 10 2016, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(DBKL @ May 10 2016, 09:32 AM)
yes with door visor
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but still have to check your window rubber seal, i guess this is the main reason causing the rain to accidentally drop inside
ahnee92
post May 10 2016, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(short_tounge @ May 10 2016, 09:33 AM)
THIS  ranting.gif also hate all the little noise inside the car
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let's migrate then biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
ahnee92
post May 10 2016, 10:07 AM

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QUOTE(DBKL @ May 10 2016, 10:05 AM)
cant post link,

just google

How to solve Proton Gen2 door problem
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wow thx a lot bro, never thought of this one, will defintely try by tonight
ahnee92
post May 10 2016, 10:29 AM

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QUOTE(caesarx @ May 10 2016, 10:24 AM)
Same thing happen to my car, noise from same location as your car, the slot under radio player, steering, power window switch, seat belt holder etc etc, really fucuk yimai. I tried to tighten some of the screws, but the screw behind steering is * shape that I dont have this kind of screw driver.

but luckily my car no oil leak.
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the sound coming out from power steering?? try check your "horn" part or the "airbag" part, mine since day 1 already ngek ngek sound from the steering after the car start moving, and luckily SC helped me to seal tightly back the steering "horn"part.... for door part tickling sound, i'll try later or by tonight, let's see how's the door eyes work if i loosen and screw it back exactly like this post taught

http://<link removed>/2005/09/22/how-to-solve...2-door-problem/
ahnee92
post May 10 2016, 11:04 AM

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QUOTE(DBKL @ May 10 2016, 10:38 AM)
this one also one of the solution and easy to follow

http://faieelegance.blogspot.my/2013_10_01_archive.html
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thx again, will try later on, btw, my FC is getting a lot better compare to "below 10k mileage", sometimes it hits up to 6L/100km for 100% highway drive la of course

QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ May 10 2016, 10:40 AM)
If you are willing to DIY, you can try opening up your door panel and putting a bit of windscreen sealant around the place where the door clips sit on. It may help because the door clips don't snap onto the panel. Rather they just slot into there and can actually move quite easily. You just need to remove 2 screws behind the door handle, two beside, and one that secures the driver's console, then pry the door panel off starting from the door handle part.

Air-cond vent problem unfortunately cannot be solved I think.. The only thing you can do is to minimise or eliminate it by adjusting any of the air-cond vents when the sound appears. Normally it makes it go away. This problem seems to have been around for a long time. I guess it's hard to get rid of low quality vendors. laugh.gif

Finally, did you see where exactly the oil is leaking from? For the Campro engine, this problem normally happens at the oil dipstick and the rocker cover. The rocker cover leak is because Plotong uses a bit of sealant only. I'm not sure what causes the oil dipstick leak, but I heard that it's related to not removing the dipstick during oil change.
I had this problem long time ago. Now already solved after numerous attempts with different methods. It's related to the door design, which is rather shit. It's either caused by the weather sheet that is no longer stuck onto the door properly, or water coming through the holes where the door clips go through. If you want to go with the easy way, you can just cut small holes on the bottom of the door seals to let water flow through, but that might affect the sound sealing ability of the door seals. The other thing you can do is buy windscreen sealant, and put a thick upside down U layer around the inner side of the door clip holes and paste a plastic layer such as a book wrapper  over each hole. This covers the door clips and stops water from going through.
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for both engine and petrol leaking problems already solved, for engine oil leaking, due to the oil sump loosen, so they ended up just gum back, for petrol, SC claimed that there is no leaking, but underneath, what other foreman told is that our lower parts comes with anti-rust coating which it is very obvious if kena petrol, and the caused of leaking petrol is one of the longest petrol hose that goes all the way to the back petrol filter had bengkok, it is not very obvious if we observe it from the upper part, i can't even smell any petrol leaking, I guess that's why Persona is easier terbakar when accident, do note folks, later then if got chance, I'll try to locate which petrol hose that usually bengkok and caused small amount of petrol leaking
ahnee92
post May 10 2016, 01:44 PM

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did what bro DBKL recommended, the irritating noise still there coming out dunno from the power window switch area, or the handle part, this noises is getting more and more annoyed
ahnee92
post May 16 2016, 08:13 PM

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QUOTE(bingzz @ May 16 2016, 10:34 AM)
Guys I need some advise, recently my persona 5 years auto car suddenly die off (mati enjin)when press break or when I slow down..anyone face this problem?
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check your oxygen sensor, see whether it's loosen anot
ahnee92
post May 16 2016, 08:16 PM

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one question regarding automatic transmission fluid, how long you guys change or service your ATF? and what ATF yu guys using? the original EON SP-III? anyone here used TOYOTA ATF TYPE-IV before??
ahnee92
post May 17 2016, 07:23 PM

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QUOTE(hyloy @ May 16 2016, 08:32 PM)
I also planned my atf change next week. The sparepart shop recommend proton spIII and mitsubishi diaqueen sp iii. Do not use toyota type iv coz is different to our persona gearbox.
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I planned to try Type-IV as type IV is higher grade than the usual SP-III, the Toyota TYPE-IV is applicable for almost all SP-III model, but I myself not reli sure bout tis, so was asking for opinion though

QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ May 16 2016, 08:54 PM)
I had my gearbox flushed and the ATF changed to synthetic ATF from Petro Canada (DuraDrive MV) about a year or two ago. So far so good. Gear changes are usually smooth.
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how long did u service your ATF actually??

QUOTE(benson92 @ May 17 2016, 09:18 AM)
mine is toyota atf IV...so far so good..no problem ...yet  laugh.gif
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QUOTE(nomoredfox @ May 17 2016, 09:33 AM)
I am using Toyota ATF too, been driving >20000km
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so meaning that you service every 20k km?? or 40k km? 20k km too earlier? any noticeable change of using TYPE-IV??
ahnee92
post May 17 2016, 07:28 PM

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QUOTE(bingzz @ May 17 2016, 09:17 AM)
Hmmm OK thanks...will send to check again with service center.
Ohhh..just 2 times then nothing happen???you did any tuning or repair any parts?very scary just die off like this.
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it's not experience though, But i usually read a lot of happened case before, like what I read bout your case last time, it's actually due to oxygen sensor (so called exhaust sensor too) was loosen

http://autoworld.com.my/forum/index.php?/t...arting-problem/
ahnee92
post May 17 2016, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ May 17 2016, 07:41 PM)
First flush was a mix of Dexron III and DuraDrive ( 6 + 6 litres). I replacecd the ATF again after 10k to 20k mileage with 5L of DuraDrive. Now if I'm not mistaken it's been slightly over 10k KM. This fluid supposedly lasts for the lifetime of the vehicle, or about 80,000KM to 100,000KM I believe. When I replaced the ATF, it was still nice and red. So far no issues. Gear change at 6.5 ~ 7k RPM is very smooth also.
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wow, 7000 rpm, how fast you speed bro brows.gif
ahnee92
post May 18 2016, 09:48 AM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ May 17 2016, 07:51 PM)
Just accelerating. smile.gif You can reach about 110KM/H at gear 2 6.5K< RPM.
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normally at highway, my average speed is 120km/h- 140km/hr, not dare to exceed 150km/hr, car shaky d

QUOTE(bingzz @ May 17 2016, 10:15 PM)
Hey thanks for the info man!! will check this out with my workshop...last time left my car in proton service center for 2 days for checking but apparently nothing have been solve  dry.gif
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no worries, good things must share smile.gif
ahnee92
post May 30 2016, 07:34 PM

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QUOTE(mayalab @ May 29 2016, 04:37 PM)
Nope. Toyota Type-IV is not a more superior product than SP-III.
They are of different spec, meant for different GB, and not interchangeable.
Please use ATF which offers full compatibility with SP III.
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as what stated in the Toyota Type-IV, it's suitable for many types of ATF such as Dex-II, III, SP-III was in the list as well
ahnee92
post May 30 2016, 08:40 PM

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QUOTE(J Camp @ May 30 2016, 08:35 PM)
for persona elegance drivers...anyone here using those cabin/ aircon filter?

saw a few sellers selling those filters in the auto section.

but it seems there are two models for persona.

patco and sanden.

anyone currently using them in their cars?
any difference between patco and sanden?
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one is like normal cabin filter (mcm air filter look), another one is Net-type (can be wash, but if net broken have to change also la) biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

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